After lots of searching I have found most all of my answers I've needed, but i'm left with the following questions regarding the rear brakes/axle. I feel really ashamed of asking these questions, but my head hurts from the days of searching.

1.) Where can I find a diagram or instructions on the proper order of disassemby/reassemby of the rear brakes? I don't want to have things flying everywhere. ( I did take photos and have photos from here as a reference if needed.)

2.) Does NAPA's rear brake rebuild kit include the little metal clip for the E-Brake cable? (its missing of course)

3.) Are the metal (possibly laminated metal) axle gaskets at the end of the axle reuseable? If not what is the recomended gasket material?

4.) a. How can I tell if my rear end is a limited slip after taking off the diff cover? b. How much fluid does the Dana70 take?

5.) After taking putting the diff cover back on, what is the torqe spec for the bolts?

6.) Is there somewhere I can find these answers for myself????

Thank you all so very much, in advance.

Mike

 

A factory service manual will answer almost all those questions for you. I have one, but naturally I left it back at my ranch today.

 

Once you get the axles and hubs removed, the brakes come apart just like any other drum/shoe type brakes.

There are a dozen possible orders in which they can be removed/installed with the same end results.

Just leave one side un-touched, so that you can refer to it, should you get confused.

Just make sure the star-wheel adjusters rotate in the correct direction, and don't get installed backwards.

Also, clean up the teeth with a triangle-file and coat the internal threads with anti-sieze.


I doubt it.

This clip always comes with a new park-brake cable.

It would be a simple matter to make one.


YES, providing they are un-damaged.

Most mechanics I talk to prefer the hard plastic gaskets to any other kind.

There are many thousands out there, mine included, that are sealed with RTV Black and nothing else, with nary a drip.


If it is "limited slip", it will be pretty much obvious, once exposed, as it will be one big housing full of clutch-plates, sort of hard to describe.

An "open" rear, on the other hand, will have simple exposed spider-gears and not much else.

If it is an original rear, it will be limited slip.

I just changed one the other day, and foggy memory says something like three quarts, maybe a hair less.

Don't forget the slip additive.


Of the hundreds I have installed, I have never torqued one yet.

I just coat the gasket, or the lack thereof, with RTV-Black, and snug them up in a criss-cross pattern, with a 3/8" ratchet/socket.

 

There's a tool you'll want for the hold-down springs on the brakes. Without it you will do a lot of cussing and throwing tools.

http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?P...OD&ProdID=2241

The D70 takes 3.5 qts. The correct level is 3/8" to 1/2" BELOW the bottom of the fill hole. Filling it to the brim often results in gear oil on your new brake shoes.

 

If your diff has a squared carrier (the part the ring gear rides on), it is limited slip.

If rounded as it goes away from the ring gear, it is open.

You can see spider gears in both types. Cnat see clutches in the OEM Dodge LSD.

Wannadiesel, what tool do I need for brakes? All I ever used (on anything) was a set of Vice Grips, and a few screw drivers.

Daniel

 

yo: DAVE.....
Thanks for the tool info, didn't know it used that type of spring.
TOMMY

 

Daniel, you don't know what you're missing if you don't have that tool I linked to. You can use other tools (along with some spare skin, extra blood, and plenty of non-DTR approved language) to release and install those springs, but that little tool makes it so easy you will wonder why you struggled for so long.

Tommy - the LSD carrier is bolted together, the open diff is a single cast chunk. LSD has 4 spiders, open has only 2.