bigragu

Wasn't the tensioner, wasn't the fan clutch. I opened up the view plate for the torque converter/flexplate. While looking for cracks, I see high up, on the flexplate at engine side, flakes of bonded aluminum. Thinking a cracked flexplate, I use a skinny long screwdriver to prod at that flake and noticed I was able to slide the torque converter rearward, about 3/8" from the rear main seal housing at engine side. It is then I am realizing that at start up that TC lunges forward and causes the flexplate to slightly rub on that aluminum housing.

Is there suppose to be that end play? Is the engine side of the flexplate suppose to rub on that alum housing?
Can't see any cracks on the flexplate, though, but just the metal flake
Have a feeling the dodge will be down awhile

torquefan

That sounds scary. Is it the crankshaft that is moving back and forth? That's possible, if the thrust bearing has broken or worn. If you can use a prybar to move the torque converter and flexplate back and forth, have a look at your harmonic balancer on the front of the engine to see if it's moving at the same time.
There is a spec for allowable crankshaft end play, but I think the maximum is like .010" or so. You might need a magnetic dial indicator to see where it's at.

mknittle

It could rub if the crankshaft bolts are loose.

bigragu

Mark, are you meaning bolts holding the harmonic balancer on?

thrashingcows

No the bolts that mount the flex plate to the rear of the crank shaft.

But no there shouldn't be any movement...or so little that you can't "see" it, but more feel it, like Torquefan mentioned it could be a thrust bearing.

ChrisLib

This /\ ... sorta good news is it can be done without taking the engine out.

Alec

Augi,

The thrust bearing surface on the (I think it is number four) main bearing has fallen off, and the fillets on the main bearings are locating the crank for and aft. This will eventually lead to catastrophic failure. You can probably find the piece of bearing lying in the oil pan near the drain if you really try. This is somewhat common in manual trucks. Do you remember when Monty first had this problem?

You can roll new bearings in without removing the engine from the truck, but it is a messy, annoying, project.

What a bummer, PITA -- I don't know what to say.

NJTman

Holy crap!
I've never heard of this scenario with these engines.

Oliver has seen / owned more of these trucks than anyone else here. Have you heard of this, Ollie??

bigragu

Thanks for all the replies. Alec, your comment, though useful, is scarin me, LOL. I am hoping for the best, and that being a cracked flexplate. I drove it around the block, less than a mile, and the growling scraping noise is getting worse. All posts coming up on the search feature point towards the flexplate, and I am hoping the cracked, spiderwebbed middle core of the plate that mounts onto the engine is allowing the flex backwards and forward. I won't know till I open it up next Saturday. My goal is to take 3 Saturday's, at 8 hours a day, to remove the tranny, install new rear main seal and flexplate, re seal any areas that require new seals and o rings on the tranny, replace bushings and what not on the shift linkages, and try and figure out how to change out the seal behind the torque converter w/o upsetting too many things. Right now, as far as assistance, what I need from you guys are parts sources. Those linkage bushings, the torque converter hub seal, and a basic seal kit for the A518 46RH. Tried doing a web search, and what I'm coming up with are full on tranny rebuild kits, which I am not ready for time wise and skill set wise. The flexplate, well, I DO NOT want to do this again. If I have to spring for a nice billet one, so be it. I'm kicking myself in the behind, for just simply trusting that a second gen flexplate was all I needed, but obviously that may have failed, too, like my OEM one did back in 2010. With so many billet ones out there, I see that certain ones may be too thick, like the ATS one, which requires a flat face torque converter in order for it to clear the crank face. Oh yeah, going to change out my plate to crank bolts, along with my plate to torque converter bolts, too, from Cummins, so if you have part numbers that will help a lot
All this, assuming the flex plate is the culprit. If it is the thrust bearing, the truck sits till I can afford the $$ to pay someone to do it, professionally.
Well, I guess the power adders, over the years, has taken its toll. The mighty Cummins has its share of Krytonites, and it has caught up to me. That, or simply that the 50,000 miles I put on since October of 2013 has taken its toll

PapeCAT

Hmm. Well Augie I wish you the best and hope that it isn't the thrust bearing. I would be careful in claiming that the thrust bearing failures are 'common' in manual transmission trucks. I adhered to this logic and prepared to replace my 'three piece' thrust bearing during my HG replacement ordeal on my 1991.0 manual trans equipped motor. As a surprise to me, everything was tight and looked good in regards to the thrust bearing so I decided to run it rather than replace the thrust bearing with the later 'one piece' unit I had purchased.

I would doubt it is your thrust bearing but do the endplay measurements from your dampner and report back.

oliver foster

I have never seen a thrust bearing fall apart as described on one of the 12Vs I have owned.
Most of the 1st gens I have owned are manuals, so I am not sure how "common" a problem it really is.


Augie,
I would try prying on the harmonic balancer and see if the flex plate is moving as previously suggested.
I am hoping for a cracked flex plate that is causing the scraping on your adapter plate.

mknittle

Flexplate is what my money is on. or loose bolts.

NJTman

Well, I guess I didn't read that carefully enough before replying.
Flexplate. Sounds more appropriate here. Glad I bought the thicker one per J. Martin's advice.
Bolts are available from dodge or aftermarket. I'll look for the numbers later, as I'm still recovering from this head cold, and the couch is where I belong right now

bigragu

Thanks all.

NJTman

6033439 (6pcs) flexplate bolts to Torque converter

4429522 (8pcs) Flexplate to Engine crank

4798968 (1pc) reinforcing ring plate

(all mopar parts)

Flexplate:


Trans linkage bushings:


cummins rear seal kit: 3934486 (1pc)

(which I never changed at the advice of the diesel mechanic friend of mine who said.... if it aint broke, don't fix it as you can cause a leak. mine was dry as a witches ....)

Trans Shifting Linkage bushing (crossrod) (2pcs) 3467800 Mopar

I also bought the linkage bushings from mopar 3575333 (4pcs) but they were NOS and broke apart upon assembly

You should provide your vin to the dealer to ensure the proper parts.