MBolivar

Anyone running a manual valve body and how do you like it? After reading the posts about early shifting, seems like a manual valve body would be nice on a play only truck. I don't know how the u-joints will like that. I am running a Suncoast valve body with the TV cable as far as it will go and it still shifts early and of course, the 366 spring only worsens it. I am ordering a new converter and that will again change the shift points, right?

NO_SPRK

this is a little off topic but ive heard of old drag racers running clutches infront of their automatic. crazy hard shifts

unixcowboy

Same problem, different solution......

I bent a Z into the part of the TV cable that attaches to the throttle linkage.
Then I adjusted the Z shape until the tranny shifted where I wanted it to at WOT - ~ 3200 - 3300 rpm.

I just live with the early shifting at light or part throttle.

OR I manually shift it

schamran

Yeah, you shouldn't need a manual valve body. Only to keep it from shifting down right?

Riflemanusmc

That would be the cluchflite. Banging gears with one of those breaks parts, so I hear..........

MBolivar

Cowboy, you got any pics?

jughead

got a manual in my 82. lot of fun. got enough power that in normal driving only use high gear. only ones i have ever used would not hold back in low gear. could be a problem if one towed. over the years my son and i have probably put 130-140k on various chry vehicles with manual valve bodies with no problems

unixcowboy

Thought I did, but not...

When it stops raining I'll get a couple

unixcowboy

Couldn't get real good focus on the Z'd portion but you can see where it's bent and get an idea.

Right now it's 47* and a lite drizzle.
When ( IF ) it clears a little, I'll try my macro lens and see if I can add a closeup of just the Z'd part.

MBolivar

Thanks for posting that pic. I'm wondering if I should put the throttle linkage back to the original outside hole on the lever. Wouldn't that change the travel geometry of the TV cable also? I read some users have put a small bolt in the TV cable slot to close up that small gap so the throttle bell crank pushes it sooner.

unixcowboy

When I installed my 3200 gov spring I checked the total travel of the throttle lever inside the top.
I had been reading about the idle going up after the install and reasoned that the spring was pulling the gov more than the stock spring - so -
I adjusted the throttle lever so it was pointing straight at the gov attachment - you know, that pesky top hat that everyone drops

Then I watched the hash marks on the outside so I knew where to set the lever for min, and how far it would rotate for max.

I adjusted my linkage so I had full travel which made me back off the high idle screw completely and the low idle only has 1 or 2 threads showing.
When I still couldn't get full travel with the linkage adjustment I started 'modifying' the cable connection to the pedal. The throttle cable pivot has a piece of metal underneath that stops the pivot from going very far. After I removed that, I had ~ 1/2" more travel.....
All those changes made the TV move waaayyyy too soon and waayyy too far - even with it as far out as it would go - the opposite end to normal adjustment...Full throttle would never shift until you let off a little and then it would slam into the next gear. NOT a good idea.

So I bent the tv rod and played with the cable adjustment until I got it to shift at ~ 3200 - 3300 rpm through the gears.
Throttle on the floor and I lock out OD and get 1 - 2 shift ~ 30 - 32 mph and 2 - 3 ~ just under 60 mph then I hit the OD at ~ 80 mph....