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Making a 93' 4x4 a Dually

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Old 03-05-2006, 05:15 PM
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Making a 93' 4x4 a Dually

Were wanting to take the 93 and make it a dually and put a flatbed with a cattle feeder on it. How do you go about it? I have seen the arrowcraft adapters but we dont really want to go that way. How can you hook up a set of original dually wheels to the truck? It is also a 4x4 so the hubs are an issue. Can you fit 2nd gen wheels to these trucks? I also just remembered it has little wheel studs on it as well, how are ya'll getting around that? Thanks for the help.
Old 03-05-2006, 10:36 PM
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Without changing out the axels and hubs you'll need the adaptors. I might be wrong but,stud dia. and pattern are different on srw axels.
Old 03-05-2006, 10:51 PM
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Studs and pattern are the same. You'll need either the DRW hubs for the front or another Dually axle. Same for the rear. You can convert with parts or complete axles.
Old 03-06-2006, 06:54 AM
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Come up to Kentucky and ill switch ya axles. Mines a 350 dually, and want a single wheel. Wes
Old 03-06-2006, 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Vinsil
Studs and pattern are the same. You'll need either the DRW hubs for the front or another Dually axle. Same for the rear. You can convert with parts or complete axles.
I don't believe studs are the same. 350's have 5/8" studs and use coined wheels. 250s are 9/16" studs if I'm not mistaken. Pick up a set of 350 hubs for the front, and it SHOULD BE a direct swap (anybody know for sure? - I know GM's are.) As for the rear, do yourself a favor and swap the axle out for a dually 70. Or 80, but you'll be doing some machining for coined wheels.

2nd Gen wheels are not a direct swap, they went to smaller studs and uncoined wheels. and cheesy two-piece lugnuts to hold them together.
Old 03-06-2006, 09:02 AM
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The Arrowcraft rear adapters space the wheels out about 4" when all you really need is 3/4" to clear the springs. I made my own spacers from 3/4" plate. Had to change the wheel studs as well, from 9/16" to 5/8", (I think, I just remember they were the next size larger). Studs are no big deal, just pound out the old and pound in the new.

I DID use Arrowcraft adapters on the front. They bolt directly to the existing studs and space the wheel out appropriately so that the Budd wheel clears the calipers. The adapters already have the correct size wheel studs installed in them to mount the Budd wheel, so you don't have to fool around with changing studs on the front at least. As far as I can tell, this is basically the same set-up they use at the factory. They've been on the truck for about 200,000 miles now with no issues.

chaikwa.
Old 03-06-2006, 12:58 PM
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So all I need for the front is 3500 hubs? And for the rear can I get some hubs for that too and make it work without swapping axles? If I found a wrecked 1st gen or 2nd gen could I just rob the parts and make it work with the axles I have? Thanks Guys!
Old 03-06-2006, 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by BlueOxD350
I don't believe studs are the same. 350's have 5/8" studs and use coined wheels. 250s are 9/16" studs if I'm not mistaken. Pick up a set of 350 hubs for the front, and it SHOULD BE a direct swap (anybody know for sure? - I know GM's are.) As for the rear, do yourself a favor and swap the axle out for a dually 70. Or 80, but you'll be doing some machining for coined wheels.

2nd Gen wheels are not a direct swap, they went to smaller studs and uncoined wheels. and cheesy two-piece lugnuts to hold them together.

On the 2nd gen stuff, yes. The first gen is the same. Yes, the Dodge/GM axles use the same outters in the front so you could swap on DRW hub/hats on the front. The rear are different since the GM trucks use a Corporate 14 bolt and Dodge was still using Dana rear axles.
Old 03-06-2006, 10:26 PM
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Originally Posted by caleb c.
So all I need for the front is 3500 hubs? And for the rear can I get some hubs for that too and make it work without swapping axles? If I found a wrecked 1st gen or 2nd gen could I just rob the parts and make it work with the axles I have? Thanks Guys!
The spindles on the rear are different between the single and duals. I don't think a simple hub changeover will work. The seals are way different for sure- (C/R 28746 vs. 30033) I assume the bearings are different diameters as well.
Old 03-07-2006, 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by torquefan
The spindles on the rear are different between the single and duals. I don't think a simple hub changeover will work. The seals are way different for sure- (C/R 28746 vs. 30033) I assume the bearings are different diameters as well.
You are correct, sir - no hub changeover is possible in the rear - the spindles are larger, and the backing plates are recessed so that the drum rides inboard of the inside dual for airflow / cooling, and lets not forget about brake shoes.

Sure, you could buy an adapter to extend the mounting surface - but think of what you're giving up...
- proper load distribution on bearing surfaces
- 3" shoes and adequate drum ventilation (heat dissipation)
- overall gawr - dually axles have shorter axle tubes, resulting in a higher gawr. 6500# vs 8000# if memory serves me....

Why not spend the money on a factory-engineered dually axle. Do it once, do it right, and be done with it.

My .02
Old 03-07-2006, 10:43 AM
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So I guess my options for the rear are either use the arrow craft addapters or get a new axle? So, I could get adapters for front and rear, new wheels from a 1st gen dually (or 2nd. gen If I change the studs) and be done with it? What about the front hubs? How do I make that work with the new front wheels? Thanks again for the help
Old 03-07-2006, 02:16 PM
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It will be easier to just find a rear dually axle. The front you can buy the parts new from Six States or the ***********. I honestly wouldn't mess with adaptors for the reasons already mentioned. On top of that, your putting a TON more stress on the bearings than need to be. There is a reason the hubs/hats are different and the axles themselves are designed different. If it was as simple as adaptors, the factory would save a ton of money by using them.
Old 03-07-2006, 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by caleb c.
So I guess my options for the rear are either use the arrow craft addapters or get a new axle? So, I could get adapters for front and rear, new wheels from a 1st gen dually (or 2nd. gen If I change the studs) and be done with it? What about the front hubs? How do I make that work with the new front wheels? Thanks again for the help
Rear - adapters or new-to-you axle. Correct.
Front axle requires adapters or dually hubs. Also correct.

Rear axle you could go Dana70 or Dana80.
70 uses 1st gen wheels, or by changing to 9/16" studs use 2nd gen wheels.
80 uses 2nd gen wheels and is stronger, and if you swap to 5/8" studs and drill a recess around the stud holes on the hub it will accept 1st gen, coined wheels.

Front hubs, just get them to match the wheels you wish to use. Get 1st gen hubs if you want to run 1st gen wheels, or 2nd gen for 2gen wheels. The only difference should be the stud diameter and recesses for coined wheels.

Hope this clears it all up for you - just remember, Ebay is your friend for a swap like this. Shop smart, I'd expect $1500 to net you everything (axle, hubs, wheels)

If it were me, I'd run a Dana80 mod'd for coined wheels; 1st gen hubs up front; Coined (1st gen) wheels all around. And if I was buying wheels and tires anyways, why not just get a set of 19.5's?
Old 03-07-2006, 03:20 PM
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I converted my '78 D200 crew cab camper 9000 to a dually. I just swapped out the axle for an '86 dually. Only issue was using a special universal as there were two different size caps for the driveshaft and yoke. With 4WD you have issues of ratio compatibility, so you'll probably have to change at least one ring & pinion. I just cheated on the front and adapted simulators so no one could tell without examining it closely. You can't do that with 4WD due to the locking hubs. The truck had the HD #4000 front end so I really wasn't stressing anything. Loved that truck except I converted it to a 440 whan gas was under $1/gal. 7.5 mpg. didn't matter back then - it does now!
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