Lift pump cost...best price?
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Lift pump cost...best price?
Cummins here locally wants 107.00 for a new lift pump. I'm thinking that this "garble/purring" noise that I've posted on here in the past is probably stemming from the L.P. I thought everyone here was paying around 50 bucks for an OEM L.P. Are you all buying from someplace other than Cummins? Carmyne
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From: New Holland, PA
A genuine Cummins unit will set you back around $100. Before I upgraded to the piston lift pump, I was running a Delphi-made lift pump from USDieselparts.com. I think it's still under $40.
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From: TN
Try looking here www.hoeslidiesel.com
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From: Tijeras, New Mexico, 7,000ft up
Hey Wanna, what fuel pressure do you run with that piston pump? Was there a discernable difference? I can see that higher inlet pressure could affect the dynamic advance curve and max fuel flow volume, but I have no idea how much.
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From: New Holland, PA
The fuel pressure is 16 psi at idle, varies between 12 - 17 at cruise, and will go as high as 18 when engine braking. I have dragged it down as far as 6 psi on WOT runs.
A healthy diaphragm pump makes 7-8 psi at idle.
Top end "felt" better.
I don't think high inlet pressure would change the timing curve assuming that the stock LP was keeping up. Remember that there's a vane pump feeding the pump internals, that's what makes the pressure inside the pump housing. That vane pump is going to tend to isolate the housing from any change in inlet pressure, assuming that the vane pump is kept supplied with fuel at some pressure. I don't think it matters if it's 4 psi or 14.
A healthy diaphragm pump makes 7-8 psi at idle.
Top end "felt" better.
I don't think high inlet pressure would change the timing curve assuming that the stock LP was keeping up. Remember that there's a vane pump feeding the pump internals, that's what makes the pressure inside the pump housing. That vane pump is going to tend to isolate the housing from any change in inlet pressure, assuming that the vane pump is kept supplied with fuel at some pressure. I don't think it matters if it's 4 psi or 14.
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From: Tijeras, New Mexico, 7,000ft up
Mu list pump is leaking slightly, and I really can't stand to replace it with the diaphram POS. When I was a drag racer (in another life) I would get the nice Mr. Gasket Chrome blockoff plate and throw on a Carter Vane pump and never have another problem. For some reason I'm hesitant to do that on the diesel, perhaps because if I starve the pump it dies.
Sooo, I guess I want what you have. What's the part again, and where did you get it?
Thanks Dave!
mark
Sooo, I guess I want what you have. What's the part again, and where did you get it?
Thanks Dave!
mark
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From: New Holland, PA
All the part #'s are in the 1st gen part number page in the "tech facts" section of the site. I got mine from Cummins Power Systems out of Harrisburg, PA. I'm sure there's a distributor close to you, Cummins' website has a locator tool. Once you find one close, just call 'em up and they'll ship the parts to you.
While you're at it, get the high flow banjo bolts from Geno's.
While you're at it, get the high flow banjo bolts from Geno's.
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beendoing a topic search on the lift pump thing and schooling myself. How exactly does one tell if the lift pump is either: going on borrowed time, or, still good but not sufficient enough to keep up with fuel tweaks? Anybody that has experienced a problem and didthe change out, was there a garbling/purring noise associated with your LP diagnosis? Yes, for all of you that have followed my postings, I am still chasingdown that annoying purr. I can hear it at the firewall right by the accelerator pedal. It seems to be getting worse. Carmyne
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From: Terre Haute,IN
Originally Posted by bigragu
beendoing a topic search on the lift pump thing and schooling myself. How exactly does one tell if the lift pump is either: going on borrowed time, or, still good but not sufficient enough to keep up with fuel tweaks?
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Originally Posted by bgilbert
Does anyone read anything I ever post???
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On my non tweaked 91.5 I didnt notice any difference before it went. I was just cruising at 60 when I just started losing power, then off completely. Of course it was the proverbial coldest day of the year, single digits, but a passerby took pity on me and picked me up so I didnt have to hoof it the last couple of miles. 
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From: Terre Haute,IN
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...=fuel+pressure
Here's someone that has been listening:
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...=fuel+pressure
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...=fuel+pressure
That should give you plenty of good reading.
Here's someone that has been listening:
Originally Posted by Underpsi
The stock gauges are really good for nothing, if you are concerned about your oil pressure then go out and buy a oil pressure gauge with the tubing. You should be able to get it for like $10 and just hook it up the the port in the filter mount and see what shes readeing while shes running. You can keep it permanently there or just to check it. If you choose to use it as a dianostic tool it will come in handy. You can use it to check boost, fuel, and of course the oil pressure. Its well worth the $10 for a infomative tool like a pressure gauge
Originally Posted by bgilbert
Go to www.genosgarage.com. Buy a pair of high flow banjo bolts, one tapped for 1/8npt. Get urself an el cheapo 0-30psi boost gauge with fittings. Install the banjo's in place of the restrictive oem banjos. Plumb the boost gauge into the tapped banjo. This is how you check fuel pressure. This can be done at idle, no need to make it a permanent setup in the cab. This is the way to determine if your lift pump is dead or more importantly weak. Your injection pump can pull its own fuel. The truck can and will run on its own with a dead lift pump. Then put the el cheapo boost gauge and fittings in the toolbox or cabinet and use it once a year or whenever to check/test lift pump pressure. Pipe plug in the tapped banjo.
That should give you plenty of good reading.