Recent problems with my lift pump, as well as some troubles stemming from a clogged fuel filter awhile ago, have got me thinking that a fuel pressure gauge might be a pretty good idea.

Basic questions:

Does this get plumbed into the bleeder plug on the post-filter banjo bolt on the filter manifold?

This gauge is for measuring pre-injection pump pressure only, right? So this is for checking the health of the lift pump and the filter and the fuel-delivery line only, I suppose.

Stainless braided line, right?

0 - 20 psi, or something like that, right?

Thanks,
CR

 

For long term use you should get a real fuel psi gauge by Isspro, Autometer, etc. It will come with an isolater to buffer the gauge from the pulsations caused by the cam lobe operation of the fuel pump. For temporary purposes any gauge will work. A boost or oil psi gauge will last about a month or so (from what I hear) if used as a fuel psi gauge.

Brian

 

Basic questions:

Does this get plumbed into the bleeder plug on the post-filter banjo bolt on the filter manifold? yes

This gauge is for measuring pre-injection pump pressure only, right? So this is for checking the health of the lift pump and the filter and the fuel-delivery line only, I suppose. yes

Stainless braided line, right? If you can find one, or Genos Garage has an 18" rubber hose for use with the gauges.

0 - 20 psi, or something like that, right? Mine is a Westech electric gauge from 0-30. They have a 0-15, but you would be better off with the higher gauge. After relocating my LP, I have 18 psi, and maintain 16 at WOT.

Thanks, You're welcome

 

If going for a permanent gauge and you plan to keep the stock lift pump, I suggest a Westach 16psi electric fuel pressure gauge from www.genosgarage.com. The lift pump fuel pressure spec is only 5-7psi. If you plan to go with an electric or piston lift pump in the future get a 30psi electric Westach gauge. This is what I have. The will run between 12-18psi. FWIW, I've not seen below 11psi at WOT with the new electric gauge. Mechanical would get sucked down to 6psi.

Go to Geno's site, order a high flow TAPPED banjo bolt. Its tapped for 1/8" pipe thread. Not metric like the stock banjo bolt. This is where you will plumb either the electric or mechanical gauge.

If you don't want permanent, but would like to check fuel pressure say a couple times a year. Get this tapped banjo bolt, put a pipe plug in it. Then with any el cheapo 30psi boost gauge and boost tubing kit, you can plumb it to the tapped bolt and check fuel pressure.

 

My LP is stock, just moved back by the tank. Even when it was mounted at the engine, I had 15 psi at idle and 12 WOT. You are correct in that the 15 gauge would work, but you are better off with the higher gauge, to have room for any improvements.The hose I mentioned in my previous post, screws on to the schrader at the pump and gives you a female 1/8NPT. I am running 2 sensors using this hose set-up, one pre- and one post- filter.

 

Firestorm you have a 24V 2nd gen this is the 1st gen 12V forum.

 

Yes.. 1st Gen... but the bango bolts are all the same...

If you ever want to find the real restriction in those 1st gen fuel systems.. just drop the tank.. and look at the fuel pick... its onl 11/64... It's tiny.... no wonder the 1st gens cann't make any power... Just kidding guys... but it looks like a good place to start making some mods...
Bryan

 

Sorry about that, I didn't notice I was in the Valve deficient forum.

 

you take it easy there, SON. maybe you oughta bring that unreliable contraption yer sittin in to one of the 1st gen dyno days. put it up on the rollers with us. come on, i dare ya.

 

oops! sorry about that guys, that was my truck talking.

anyway, when you get that tapped banjo you might as well get an untapped one too. then you can replace both of em and have a "higher flow" fuel system. and like bill said, if you think you will ever upgrade to the more reliable and rebuildable piston pump go with the 30 psi model.