Ksb and grid heater sensor question
Ksb and grid heater sensor question
Got the computer deleted the new ve pump installed and kind of making everything come together finally. Getting quite a bit of white smoke and stutter on start up that clears once engine warms, until then it will flat Miss and sputter and sound and look ugly. Have the grid heaters on a manual switch, so I assume part of my smoke is because they are not automatically cycling while the engine is idling like they used to. Also checked voltage at the ksb and it's 4 volts the information I have says it should be 8 so I have that to chase down. Did not Advance the timing at all when I put the pump in, it was locked at top dead center so that's how it was installed for now. First, was ksb temp sensor in manifold run by ecm, like the grids seem to show on the wiring diagram i have?.....so now es muerto along with automatic grid cycling....if so possibly the only way to minimize smoke is with a stick of the right length and a cardboard winter front??
I'm sincerely hoping that I'm not dealing with bad injectors these are just stock Bosch sticks but they only have about 45000 miles on them. I don't know what else it could be my low end is suffering kind of bad when I put a trailer on and that makes me lean towards injectors. The fuel screw has been turned up just a little, but there is quite a bit more to go and have a 3200 spring installed and it is spinning a wh1c turbo, it's all pretty easy crap that someone here has done before and I'm hoping to gain some insight
I'm sincerely hoping that I'm not dealing with bad injectors these are just stock Bosch sticks but they only have about 45000 miles on them. I don't know what else it could be my low end is suffering kind of bad when I put a trailer on and that makes me lean towards injectors. The fuel screw has been turned up just a little, but there is quite a bit more to go and have a 3200 spring installed and it is spinning a wh1c turbo, it's all pretty easy crap that someone here has done before and I'm hoping to gain some insight
These trucks will white smoke and run only Okay if the timing is off.
Try advancing the timing by rotating the VE pump closer to the head.
Check out some of the many threads on this site about how to do that if you need too.
It would also be good if you filled out your truck's signature as the KSB works VERY differently on the '89-'91.0 and the '91.5-'93 trucks.
I have no idea what year you have so I can not help you there.....
Try advancing the timing by rotating the VE pump closer to the head.
Check out some of the many threads on this site about how to do that if you need too.
It would also be good if you filled out your truck's signature as the KSB works VERY differently on the '89-'91.0 and the '91.5-'93 trucks.
I have no idea what year you have so I can not help you there.....
Sorry about that, not sure why its not in my signature....filled it out literally years ago🤔🤔🤔 its a 91.5 5 speed and i will get into my acct and correct this shortly
KSB is powered through a temp switch on the intake manifold, directly from the second lead on the FSS. Old one powred to shut off, delayed by a wax motor. Later version powered on by the switch, shut off when manifold warm.
Ratty idle is a mix and timing problem, usually mostly late timing. As another said, try shoving the pump toward the head a bit. Working KSB will help a lot.
Ratty idle is a mix and timing problem, usually mostly late timing. As another said, try shoving the pump toward the head a bit. Working KSB will help a lot.
KSB part makes sense, trying to get that going was what started this post, but trying to understand the timing advance. Not saying you are wrong, just trying to see what caused it to need it. Is the TDC pin that unreliable, or is this simply a matter of the smoke just says my engine is not happy right here, so you tweak it....like tuning the high end of your chainsaw in the cut?
KSB part makes sense, trying to get that going was what started this post, but trying to understand the timing advance. Not saying you are wrong, just trying to see what caused it to need it. Is the TDC pin that unreliable, or is this simply a matter of the smoke just says my engine is not happy right here, so you tweak it....like tuning the high end of your chainsaw in the cut?
It is possible for the timing gear to be off a tooth, thus invalidating the timing pin position. It won't skip timing, but could be installed wrong. Sometimes it's done on purpose.
To make life easier in the future, when a pump is thus installed, you then scribe a mark on it so it can be reinstalled after minor repairs later without going through the timing procedure. That scratch mark is not valid for any other engine.
Anything else is just a guess. Best guess is that yer injecting late.
Thanks for the info. Gonna wrestle with it some this afternoon and see what i can come up with. Some of that is above my paygrade but the other timing advance procedures ive read about are not. I can make some temporary index marks to know where it started at and go from there. Really hoping to get proper voltage to KSB wire without a huge fuss, ordering parts around here is kind of a fiasco a lot of times
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My motor smokes, shakes and stutters badly when I don't have the grid heaters and the KSB unhooked. If I run just the grid heaters it is good until temps drop below -5*C, after that I get smoke and stuttering, but if I hook up the KSB it all clears up.
Winner winner chicken dinner on the timing advance, went 1/8 in and everything went away after 15 seconds of grid heaters. Clean some Terminals and a ground up and get almost 8 volts at the ksb pin so I'm guessing if I keep monkeying with grounds that will give me a solid 8 , the meter says 7. 29 and I don't get a massive change unhooking it but it is audible so I'm going to call that operational and give the nod to jmartin on his late injection diagnosis
Next time I visit my daughter in Colorado, I'll swing by and collect the chicken dinner.
Consider getting the timing kit (adapter and dial indicator. It really isn't a difficult procedure, and then you know exactly where you are.
Consider getting the timing kit (adapter and dial indicator. It really isn't a difficult procedure, and then you know exactly where you are.
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