just as the title asks, do i have to pull the rotors? i finally got the whole kit to do the kingpins, but realized just now with my truck jacked up that i don't have the spindlenut socket tool to pull the rotor.I don't want to go into town to get it. can it be done with the rotor still on or is that just a really stupid question?

 

Yeah the rotors will come off with the hub assembly and then I think the caliper mounts have to come off in order to get the axle stubs out. I don't know if one of the cheapo auto parts stores will rent those or not, but I think they are only like 30 bucks or so. Also check into a spindle puller, they save lots of aggravation. The king pin job is not a quick one. Just take your time, clean all the parts and ask questions. Definately a job worth doing, my truck drove 100% better afterwards. You might want to look into replacing axle shaft u-joints while you have it tore down that far...

 

On your trip to town, dont forget the 7/8" allen socket (3/4" drive) and a 6' pipe for you breaker bar to loosen the kingpin!

 

well, i got a socket, wrong one of course, people who work at auto parts stores are really clueless sometimes. also, on the drivers side, do i need a special puller to take apart the drag link? this morning i was planning on having one side done, now i will be happy if i can just get the tools i need. any one know the part # on the correct spindlenut or wheel bearing socket or whatever its called?

 

well, apparently assuming that in this town of 100,000 I would be able to find the socket to pull the spindle nut on a very common axle was a mistake. No deal, every auto part store I called said i have to buy several to find the correct one. so instead of getting some productive work on my rig done, im going to now start drinking. this kind of edit really gets my goat.

 

The hub socket is 2-9/16" there are two varietys. Pointed edge and rounded edge. You need the pointed edge. Should look like a normal socket, where the corner of the nuts fit into the socket. the rounded edge are for the rear axle nuts that use the sheetmetal (yuk) wedge retainer. KD Tool #2437. NAPA should have this socket. As far as the kingpin, buy a 7/8" allen wrench and put the breaker bar on it. If that bends, get a 5/8" bolt with two nuts (7/8" hex head) run them together and use a normal 7/8" socket with the cheater bar to break it loose. If you're a fat *** like me, it'll come loose with moderate pressure. If you're skinny, call a couple more skinny freinds.LOL!

 

My 92 front axle needed the socket with 4 tangs on it for the spindle lock nut. I used a 2 9/16" for the rear spindle nut.

If you're replacing the drag link, I usually back the nut off until it's flush with the top of the bolt then use a BFH (dead blow or small sledge) to break it free. If you plan to reuse it, a pickle for is the best option, or a tie rod seperator tool (available at Napa).

 

Thank you gents, back to Napa tomorow morning. The guy who told me they don't have the socket also told me a couple months ago when i was looking for kingpin parts that my dana 60 has balljoints, so I had a feeling that he was both lazy and stupid.

 

When I put new king pins in my truck I didn't replace the upper cone that is torqued into the axle at about a bazillion ft/lbs. It didn't show any visible wear, but the nylon cup that sits on it was trashed. Just use your own better judgment when doing those. I have replaced them on Ferds and they are nasty, even got the Ferd wrench, aka torch, after them to break them loose. Just my two cents. An old trick to tie rods, drag links, etc. it to hit what they go through a couple good licks with a BFH and they will come loose.