Zarrinvz24

Howdy All, going to start my Kingpin rebuild in the morning and looking through my kit I see that I do not have the seal that goes inside the wheel hub. Do I need to get a new one of these or can I re-use my old ones as long as I am careful when I remove the hub? I bought this kit, is there anything else I am going to need seal/consumable wise to do the job?

http://www.quad4x4.com/Dodge%201970-...20Steering.htm

I have Kit 4517

MBolivar

Those wheel bearing seals aren't expensive. Your local parts store has them (i.e. NAPA, Carquest, Checker, etc.). I would change them along with the rest of your new parts since you'll be removing the hub anyway. Do a thorough rebuild and be rest assured.

Aloha,
Matt

mullishacrew

howdy, i have just done my king pins and bought them from quad 4x4 also, they did not come with a hub seal, just the rubber pieces for the axle shaft and the king pin seals, but like the other guy said they are cheap and your local automotive shop most likly has them. i also did the wheel bearings and pritty much a whole front end rebuild, due to damage spindle and hub from previous owner.

Zarrinvz24

Yeah I am going to put on new rotors and brake pads while I'm at it, did the bearings a coupl'a months ago so they should still be good. So other then the hub seals do I need anythng else?

mullishacrew

nop nothing else is needed just load it up reallyy good with grease and shes good to go, it took me about and hour and half to do one side whitch encluded cleaning everything and sanding the bearing seat faces a bit for a smooth fit, but other then that dont need anything else, good luck

Murf

You'll need more. Assuming you're doing upper King's as well? You will need a 7/8" Allen wrench to remove the kingpin from the upper 'C'.
Now, if you're a BIG BOY you won't have too much trouble replacing them. But if you're a skinny little lad, call some friends! The FSM calls for 600 lb/ft of torque to secure them. Assuming your upper kings are orig and they actually got that much torque from the factory (which I'm sure they did, plus some loctite type stuff on the threads JUST to be sure!) then 600 lb/ft of torque plus 15-ish years of muck and mud have got those babies sealed in there REAL tight!
Mine were SOOOO tight that as I was pulling on the allen wrench (with a 6 foot cheater bar!) I was actually scared of pulling the truck off the jack stands! But, they finally broke loose before the truck hit the ground. And let me tell ya! I thought I'd been shot! when that first one broke loose it sounded like a pistol went off in my garage! Next thing I know, I'm headed for the floor!

All in all it wasn't easy changing MY kingpins, but it was worth it!

Hope yours go better!

leper

It is rare to need to replace the pins themselves.

Caver Dave

After 10-20 years of road/trail filth combined with POs lack of maintenance... crude worked into the nylon cups have cooked both the cup & the pins. Most suffer from wear (cup gone totally) or rust/pitting. Folks think slapping a set of cup on it is fine... until they have to tear it back down way to soon cause it won't hold a single lane.

leper

I still stand by my statement.

Zarrinvz24

Well I hope your right leper because I am not planning on doing the pins themselves. As for how it drives now, it stays in a lane fine, just has some camber issues.

mullishacrew

yeah king pins rarely need to be changed, there tough, you just gotta do the bushings and it's good to go.

BHD

Just did mine along with a friend's about two months ago. Didn't replace the pins. I have around 1K miles on mine with no adverse affects. IMO if the pins aren't pitted or obviously worn leave 'em in.

Murf

I'll agree, if the upper kingpin isn't obviously pitted, galled, or flat-spotted then you might get away with just replacing the nylon bushings. I on the other hand erred on the side of safety and not wanting to do it again and replaced almost everything!

Dowhatchalike I guess!

Good luck!