Just picked this up 10 min ago
10-18-2017, 10:18 AM
#16
Registered User
nice score! could you post an over head shot of the cab lights? I'd like to add a set sometime and not sure how far back to put them with the visor.
thanks
thanks
10-18-2017, 10:25 AM
#18
Registered User
Blue Goose.
Check the Sticky, as someone did a write up on installing Cab lights with spacing, pictures and all.
It was a great write up, so my guess is it got "stuck".
Check the Sticky, as someone did a write up on installing Cab lights with spacing, pictures and all.
It was a great write up, so my guess is it got "stuck".
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Blue Goose (10-18-2017)
10-18-2017, 10:53 AM
#19
Registered User
checked the sticky...pretty sure I found the one you mentioned Oliver...and thanks to photobucket no pics....
10-18-2017, 11:47 AM
#21
That plug, if I'm understanding your explanation of direction, is the TPS- throttle position sensor. Very pricey electrical component. Controls the shift from 3-OD, both up and downshift.
Man, that pump is for sure a stocker pump. Even has the smoke screw cap still on, along with those pesky slotted bolts holding the AFC top on. First thing I'd do is swap those to stainless Allen heads, lol.
Why is it the front grille always has a crack at that same spot. I've got that on both my trucks. Dan, get some high grade epoxy and glue up that fan shroud. Don't want that thing cracking any further, as those are no longer available new.
I have to say, for a dually, that is a good score, and it looks pretty clean from the pics. What's the interior window moldings like? Still intact?
Now you can make that 90 of yours a play truck, and the 1993 model the work horse.
Man, that pump is for sure a stocker pump. Even has the smoke screw cap still on, along with those pesky slotted bolts holding the AFC top on. First thing I'd do is swap those to stainless Allen heads, lol.
Why is it the front grille always has a crack at that same spot. I've got that on both my trucks. Dan, get some high grade epoxy and glue up that fan shroud. Don't want that thing cracking any further, as those are no longer available new.
I have to say, for a dually, that is a good score, and it looks pretty clean from the pics. What's the interior window moldings like? Still intact?
Now you can make that 90 of yours a play truck, and the 1993 model the work horse.
10-18-2017, 11:57 AM
#22
So far, this has been the only product that I've used to fix the cracks on grilles, and all my interior molding. It will not peel off, and used with pvc pipe, will hold pretty good pressures. Anymore, all my epoxy jobs prone to heat and vibration, this is my go to.
10-18-2017, 12:10 PM
#23
Registered User
Thread Starter
That plug, if I'm understanding your explanation of direction, is the TPS- throttle position sensor. Very pricey electrical component. Controls the shift from 3-OD, both up and downshift.
Man, that pump is for sure a stocker pump. Even has the smoke screw cap still on, along with those pesky slotted bolts holding the AFC top on. First thing I'd do is swap those to stainless Allen heads, lol.
Why is it the front grille always has a crack at that same spot. I've got that on both my trucks. Dan, get some high grade epoxy and glue up that fan shroud. Don't want that thing cracking any further, as those are no longer available new.
I have to say, for a dually, that is a good score, and it looks pretty clean from the pics. What's the interior window moldings like? Still intact?
Now you can make that 90 of yours a play truck, and the 1993 model the work horse.
Man, that pump is for sure a stocker pump. Even has the smoke screw cap still on, along with those pesky slotted bolts holding the AFC top on. First thing I'd do is swap those to stainless Allen heads, lol.
Why is it the front grille always has a crack at that same spot. I've got that on both my trucks. Dan, get some high grade epoxy and glue up that fan shroud. Don't want that thing cracking any further, as those are no longer available new.
I have to say, for a dually, that is a good score, and it looks pretty clean from the pics. What's the interior window moldings like? Still intact?
Now you can make that 90 of yours a play truck, and the 1993 model the work horse.
10-18-2017, 12:55 PM
#24
Registered User
It's only a guess though.
Edwin
10-18-2017, 02:50 PM
#25
Registered User
A fellow over on CF forum mentioned that he uses this stuff as well and will sometime thin it out with some lacquer thinner and the use some fiberglass matting to make a strong, but slightly flexible repair. I have not tried this one yet....but it's on my list when a repair that could use this method arises.
10-18-2017, 05:10 PM
#27
I have been using Goop products for years...Shoe Goop, Marine Goop etc. I have re-inforced cracks in grills, interior, even small wood and metal repairs etc, with this stuff and it works great. Roughing up the surface with some 60 grit helps with bonding, and embedding a small piece of tin in the repair (roughed with sandpaper too) makes it even stringer.
A fellow over on CF forum mentioned that he uses this stuff as well and will sometime thin it out with some lacquer thinner and the use some fiberglass matting to make a strong, but slightly flexible repair. I have not tried this one yet....but it's on my list when a repair that could use this method arises.
A fellow over on CF forum mentioned that he uses this stuff as well and will sometime thin it out with some lacquer thinner and the use some fiberglass matting to make a strong, but slightly flexible repair. I have not tried this one yet....but it's on my list when a repair that could use this method arises.
When I use this stuff just recently on my interior trim, above the windshield, I used that yellow drywall mesh tape, as a strength backing. Its holding very well. I, too, scuff it up with some low grit sandpaper or steel wool, then wipe everything off with isopropyl rubbing alcohol, then apply the epoxy. It sure works well, way better than JBweld. JB is great for cast iron and metal machined fix it parts, but for plastics, this stuff is the bomb. Glad to see another believer, lol.
I was getting it local from a specialty plumbing store local(andersons sierra pipe, for you MKnittle, lol), but found it on Amazon way cheaper.
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thrashingcows (10-18-2017)
10-18-2017, 05:15 PM
#28
When I epoxied the thing, I placed some small cardboard shims to take up the void. No more creaking.
Man, all this talk about our trucks, seeing folks picking up second trucks, folks working on their trucks, really gets me going. I haven't driven since mid August, and probably won't be for another 4 months or so. Talk about cabin fever!!!
10-18-2017, 09:23 PM
#29
Registered User
Living in the Plastic Age sucks. I wish they still made grilles and such out of good ole aluminum.
Get off my lawn!
Get off my lawn!
10-18-2017, 11:18 PM
#30
Registered User
I looked at that, the area where the hood latch is. My grille has a crack on the top, where the grilles plastic flange screws down, and I noticed every time I placed my hand on that area, it creaked. Looking closely, my flange does not sit totally flat on top of the steel support underneath. Then when the grill comes down on top of it, I suppose that has caused the cracking.
When I epoxied the thing, I placed some small cardboard shims to take up the void. No more creaking.
Man, all this talk about our trucks, seeing folks picking up second trucks, folks working on their trucks, really gets me going. I haven't driven since mid August, and probably won't be for another 4 months or so. Talk about cabin fever!!!
When I epoxied the thing, I placed some small cardboard shims to take up the void. No more creaking.
Man, all this talk about our trucks, seeing folks picking up second trucks, folks working on their trucks, really gets me going. I haven't driven since mid August, and probably won't be for another 4 months or so. Talk about cabin fever!!!
I'd much rather be driving it. This stuff with the fuel pump is for birds.
Hope you get back on it soon!
Edwin