Just bought 93 250 4x4 auto
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Registered User
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 156
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From: Big Bear CA
Just bought 93 250 4x4 auto
Hi everybody, I am new to the diesel world, but with what I do know I think I have made a good switch.
I do have some questions about the truck I purchased yesterday:
I paid 4900$ it has 214000 mi. It is a very clean 250 IC auto 4x4, not even a tear in the drivers seat! Did I pay too much?
The spedo does not work mechanic told previous owner that it was a sensor. This effects the OD also? Is it difficult to fix? Where is it located?
The oil pressure is lower than the manual (yes the origional manual)
says it should be for driving pressure, is this a bad sign?
The truck never did any towing only long trips up the California coast.
The power seems lacking to me, pulling 9k has hard time, is this normal for the 1st gen?
Are mods at the milleage ok? What type would be best bang for the buck?
The front passanger wheel bearings are bad I believe, the wheel can be moved from top to bottom around 3/16" when lifted. Grinding sound when turning tight, is this the bearing also?
The steering wheel can be turned two inches before the tires move, tie rods look good, steering box?
My mind is swimming with questions so I apoligize if there are too many
I do have some questions about the truck I purchased yesterday:
I paid 4900$ it has 214000 mi. It is a very clean 250 IC auto 4x4, not even a tear in the drivers seat! Did I pay too much?
The spedo does not work mechanic told previous owner that it was a sensor. This effects the OD also? Is it difficult to fix? Where is it located?
The oil pressure is lower than the manual (yes the origional manual)
says it should be for driving pressure, is this a bad sign?
The truck never did any towing only long trips up the California coast.
The power seems lacking to me, pulling 9k has hard time, is this normal for the 1st gen?
Are mods at the milleage ok? What type would be best bang for the buck?
The front passanger wheel bearings are bad I believe, the wheel can be moved from top to bottom around 3/16" when lifted. Grinding sound when turning tight, is this the bearing also?
The steering wheel can be turned two inches before the tires move, tie rods look good, steering box?
My mind is swimming with questions so I apoligize if there are too many
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Joined: Feb 2008
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https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...t-t102027.html
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From: Eagle Ne
Hi everybody, I am new to the diesel world, but with what I do know I think I have made a good switch.
I do have some questions about the truck I purchased yesterday:
I paid 4900$ it has 214000 mi. It is a very clean 250 IC auto 4x4, not even a tear in the drivers seat! Did I pay too much?
The spedo does not work mechanic told previous owner that it was a sensor. This effects the OD also? Is it difficult to fix? Where is it located?
The oil pressure is lower than the manual (yes the origional manual)
says it should be for driving pressure, is this a bad sign?
The truck never did any towing only long trips up the California coast.
The power seems lacking to me, pulling 9k has hard time, is this normal for the 1st gen?
Are mods at the milleage ok? What type would be best bang for the buck?
The front passanger wheel bearings are bad I believe, the wheel can be moved from top to bottom around 3/16" when lifted. Grinding sound when turning tight, is this the bearing also?
The steering wheel can be turned two inches before the tires move, tie rods look good, steering box?
My mind is swimming with questions so I apoligize if there are too many
I do have some questions about the truck I purchased yesterday:
I paid 4900$ it has 214000 mi. It is a very clean 250 IC auto 4x4, not even a tear in the drivers seat! Did I pay too much?
The spedo does not work mechanic told previous owner that it was a sensor. This effects the OD also? Is it difficult to fix? Where is it located?
The oil pressure is lower than the manual (yes the origional manual)
says it should be for driving pressure, is this a bad sign?
The truck never did any towing only long trips up the California coast.
The power seems lacking to me, pulling 9k has hard time, is this normal for the 1st gen?
Are mods at the milleage ok? What type would be best bang for the buck?
The front passanger wheel bearings are bad I believe, the wheel can be moved from top to bottom around 3/16" when lifted. Grinding sound when turning tight, is this the bearing also?
The steering wheel can be turned two inches before the tires move, tie rods look good, steering box?
My mind is swimming with questions so I apoligize if there are too many
If its real clean that don't sound like to bad of a deal. Your speedo deal sounds like a bad Vehicle speed sensor. The low Oil pressure could just be a bad sending unit, these truck are notorious for that. Sounds like your gonna need some bearings and races up front. The auto trucks are real dogs untill you turn up the fuel and get a decent converter in em. Your loose steering issue is probly the factory micky mouse joint at the box.
I would address all the other issues before turnin the screws but after you get everything else taken care of these are the mods and the order I would do them.
1. Guages, Boost,pyro and fuel pressure
2. Torque converter
3 Governor spring
4. Now you can play with the fuel, depending on how wild your gonna go you gonna need a good supply pump to.
Your also gonna want to Tab the dowel pin too
BTW welcome to DTR
Don' forget to check the Sticky, There are a lot of thread in there pertaining to everything you want to do.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...t-t102027.html
Adminstrator-ess
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 22,594
Likes: 19
From: New Holland, PA
Just the wheel moves, or the whole spindle?
Steering wheel play - check the coupler between the steering box and the column for wear. Also make sure that the steering box bracket and/or frame are not cracked.
When diagnosing low power, always make sure you are getting full throttle travel at the injection pump. The lever should hit the high speed stop when someone in the cab mats the pedal.
If the OD and the speedo don't work, it's the VSS. It's located on the transfer case. Common problems include stripped reducer gearbox, chafed wiring, or the thing just rattled loose and fell off.
Steering wheel play - check the coupler between the steering box and the column for wear. Also make sure that the steering box bracket and/or frame are not cracked.
When diagnosing low power, always make sure you are getting full throttle travel at the injection pump. The lever should hit the high speed stop when someone in the cab mats the pedal.
If the OD and the speedo don't work, it's the VSS. It's located on the transfer case. Common problems include stripped reducer gearbox, chafed wiring, or the thing just rattled loose and fell off.
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 7,547
Likes: 2
From: Quinton, New Jersey (middle of nowhere)
Welcome to DTR!
Check out my videos on 3 simple modifications you can do to the injection pump
If you keep your foot out of it, these mods will make MPG and power go up a little
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uKKSDrZ0UjU
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6zPnj...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_U997...eature=related
the 1st video shows how to assure and MAKE sure you're getting full throttle travel, the 2nd one is to up fueling a tad bit, and the 3rd video shows how to advance the timing for a nice boost in power.
Get an EGT pyrometer/BOOST gauge and you'll be ready to get a' tweakin'
Check out my videos on 3 simple modifications you can do to the injection pump
If you keep your foot out of it, these mods will make MPG and power go up a little
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uKKSDrZ0UjU
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6zPnj...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_U997...eature=related
the 1st video shows how to assure and MAKE sure you're getting full throttle travel, the 2nd one is to up fueling a tad bit, and the 3rd video shows how to advance the timing for a nice boost in power.
Get an EGT pyrometer/BOOST gauge and you'll be ready to get a' tweakin'
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Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 156
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From: Big Bear CA
Thanks guys for the help, I will look at all the mods later today. Is it bad for any other components in the steering to continue and drive with bad bearings?
Do the 1st gen cummings have the same potential that the later models have? Same engine right minus 12V??
Do the 1st gen cummings have the same potential that the later models have? Same engine right minus 12V??
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 7,547
Likes: 2
From: Quinton, New Jersey (middle of nowhere)
They're all mechanical, no electronics so they're not as potential. but you can still get an easy 400hp/800ft lbs. out of a 1st gen depending on how strong your injection pump is and finding the right setup. Maxed out pump, big injectors, and an HX40 turbo and a good transmission is usually good for at least 375hp., as long as the power gets to the ground either through a manual trans or a good torque converter in your auto
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,393
Likes: 511
From: BFE, Pennsyltucky
Welcome!!
For sloppy steering definately check the input shaft coupler for wear. The small parts inside usually go bad, and as long as the coupler housing itself isn't worn, it can be a cheap fix, like under $20. Parts for the steering coupler are available from Dodge.
These trucks are not speed wagons in stock form by any means. But you have to remember that the newest 1st gen is like 17 yrs old. But at the time it was (by far) the best diesel unit available when compared to the GM non turbo 6.2 and the Navistar IDI non turbo 7.3.
With a few mods and some time with wrench in hand you can have a real nice running truck. Good Luck, and keep looking at the sticky.
For sloppy steering definately check the input shaft coupler for wear. The small parts inside usually go bad, and as long as the coupler housing itself isn't worn, it can be a cheap fix, like under $20. Parts for the steering coupler are available from Dodge.
These trucks are not speed wagons in stock form by any means. But you have to remember that the newest 1st gen is like 17 yrs old. But at the time it was (by far) the best diesel unit available when compared to the GM non turbo 6.2 and the Navistar IDI non turbo 7.3.
With a few mods and some time with wrench in hand you can have a real nice running truck. Good Luck, and keep looking at the sticky.
I grad-u-ated frum Claudes skool of tpying....
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 467
Likes: 1
From: white trash junction
Hi everybody, I am new to the diesel world, but with what I do know I think I have made a good switch.
I do have some questions about the truck I purchased yesterday:
I paid 4900$ it has 214000 mi. It is a very clean 250 IC auto 4x4, not even a tear in the drivers seat! Did I pay too much?
The spedo does not work mechanic told previous owner that it was a sensor. This effects the OD also? Is it difficult to fix? Where is it located?
The oil pressure is lower than the manual (yes the origional manual)
says it should be for driving pressure, is this a bad sign?
The truck never did any towing only long trips up the California coast.
The power seems lacking to me, pulling 9k has hard time, is this normal for the 1st gen?
Are mods at the milleage ok? What type would be best bang for the buck?
The front passanger wheel bearings are bad I believe, the wheel can be moved from top to bottom around 3/16" when lifted. Grinding sound when turning tight, is this the bearing also?
The steering wheel can be turned two inches before the tires move, tie rods look good, steering box?
My mind is swimming with questions so I apoligize if there are too many
I do have some questions about the truck I purchased yesterday:
I paid 4900$ it has 214000 mi. It is a very clean 250 IC auto 4x4, not even a tear in the drivers seat! Did I pay too much?
The spedo does not work mechanic told previous owner that it was a sensor. This effects the OD also? Is it difficult to fix? Where is it located?
The oil pressure is lower than the manual (yes the origional manual)
says it should be for driving pressure, is this a bad sign?
The truck never did any towing only long trips up the California coast.
The power seems lacking to me, pulling 9k has hard time, is this normal for the 1st gen?
Are mods at the milleage ok? What type would be best bang for the buck?
The front passanger wheel bearings are bad I believe, the wheel can be moved from top to bottom around 3/16" when lifted. Grinding sound when turning tight, is this the bearing also?
The steering wheel can be turned two inches before the tires move, tie rods look good, steering box?
My mind is swimming with questions so I apoligize if there are too many
pulltillbroke makes a good point in getting the truck running good before modding[which we all love to do] if its a cali truck you should be all right on body rust but you might want to check the rain gutter above the windshield for rot a heads up that these trucks rot there and on the bottem of the fenders BUT with that being said i don't think you'll have a problem with that WELCOME and have fun with the rig
Adminstrator-ess
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 22,594
Likes: 19
From: New Holland, PA
No, but you could destroy the spindle or lose the wheel and crash the truck. Please fix it, if not for your own safety for the safety of others on the road.
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,393
Likes: 511
From: BFE, Pennsyltucky
Bad bearings can toast the spindles and maybe even the hub. I would fix 'em as soon as you can. Safety being priority #1 and #2 the parts aren't cheap- so fix it soon unless you got bottomless pockets.
