Jumpy Autometer Pyro
#16
Registered User
I noticed an amazing difference with my pyrometer and it seems to work very well after receiving the new gauge.
I did not tie into my dash lights but to my radio. I ended up drilling an extra hole in my pillar mount and installed a small rotary switch so that I can turn off the gauge lights when needed. It is a nice addition.
I did not tie into my dash lights but to my radio. I ended up drilling an extra hole in my pillar mount and installed a small rotary switch so that I can turn off the gauge lights when needed. It is a nice addition.
#17
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Eckville, Alberta
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My previous probe was a straight bullet design but this new one is also a bullet with a half inch narrower tit to the very end. Maybe it's the step you're referring to, I don't know.
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New
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As far as taking it back... if it isn't on the fritz just leave it be. It's kinda like a Powerstroke... you get the odd one that works...
Mike
Old
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New
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..|_|
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As far as taking it back... if it isn't on the fritz just leave it be. It's kinda like a Powerstroke... you get the odd one that works...
Mike
Engine at idle 200-250 F.
Warm engine: 60 mph on the level: 600 F. (Boost 5-6psi)
WOT on incline: 800-850 F (Boost 17psi)
The gauge runs smooth, doesn't jump around, but falls and climbs relatively quickly (this is just my own opinion of quick, I have nothing to compare to) I have yet to do pump tweeks.
Do these pyro #'s sound okay? Or should I send her back for a "stepped" pyro that everyone is talkikng about?
PS: While I am at it, does the plastic cap on the full fuel screw just pop off or what, it didn't want to come off with the fingers today.
TIA.
#19
So the consensus here is that the thermocouples are faulty, or there is a bad ground?
When my gauge sticks I can tap it and watch the needle jump up to 50 degrees to the "right" temperature, so I really don't see how the thermocouple could be at issue. I haven't been concerned enough to run a new ground, but I'll try that next; if that doesn't work, I'll bet money that the gauge is what's faulty.
I would be surprised if the TC's are even autometer units; they probably just come out of an industrial supply company somewhere.
When my gauge sticks I can tap it and watch the needle jump up to 50 degrees to the "right" temperature, so I really don't see how the thermocouple could be at issue. I haven't been concerned enough to run a new ground, but I'll try that next; if that doesn't work, I'll bet money that the gauge is what's faulty.
I would be surprised if the TC's are even autometer units; they probably just come out of an industrial supply company somewhere.
#20
Registered User
The stepped thermocouple probe will give you a faster update than the "bullet" style. You should see the gauge climb a little faster because there is less mass to heat. To the human eye it is probably not as perceptible as a device like a data logger.
My neighbor had the same problem with the jittery needle and Autometer recommended the ground wire to be run to a better source. I can't remember where he reconnected but it solved the problem.
Mine has given me zero problems and I just grounded it to the metal chassis under the dash.
My neighbor had the same problem with the jittery needle and Autometer recommended the ground wire to be run to a better source. I can't remember where he reconnected but it solved the problem.
Mine has given me zero problems and I just grounded it to the metal chassis under the dash.
#21
I'll believe that; I was concerned with my 1/2 inch TC's response time until I had it installed; even at stock levels it's fast enough for me. As you said, the needle moves as fast as I'm going to respond.
#23
Registered User
My old gauge with the bullet type probe was never jittery... It was very slow reading and inaccurate.
The new gauge combo reads egts when they happen, moves about like an rpm gauge. I like it.
Phantom series.
The new gauge combo reads egts when they happen, moves about like an rpm gauge. I like it.
Phantom series.
#24
Registered User
Here's an old topic but new to me. I just installed a Z-series Autometer Pyrometer preturbo and have really good connections on everything. My problem is the gauge will read accurately w/o any accessories running but as soon as something is turned on the gauge needle drops like I have a voltage drop. I checked the voltage going to the gauge and it's around 11.52 vdc with something on. I really have no idea why it does it since my Isspr tach is hooked in the same line and it hasn't affected it in any way. Thanks for the help.
#25
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Pen Argyl Pennsylvania
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Get it it's own 12v key on power and ground it to the motor and you should be good to go. I have mine getting its power from the radio and if I turn the lights on the needle goes up by 200*.
#26
Its the ground. If you try to ground it to the cab even on its own wire it will jump with any electrcal change. I emailed autometer when my brand new pryo did the bouncy, shakey thing. He said run a seprate ground with just the pryo on it. No gauge lights or anything else on it. I ran ground right to battery negative terminal. POOF ALL BETTER.
#29
Glad it worked for you. I was wild when mine did it. I thought the gauge was junk. Mine would go crazy when I put on lights, brakes, blinkers. Worked fine with no other load on the electrical system. They are real finiky I guess.
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