Ip blew a gasket somewhere on the engine side. I have to pull it to get at the problem, so I'll do the re-seal bit and put in a 3200 governor spring and a timing kit while I'm at it.
Any direction, set of instructions, yoo toob videos etc would be much appreciated.

I also need to install a 4" turbo back exhaust system behind a PacBrake. That's going to take a bit of fit up and welding.

Thanks in advance.

 

Didn't quite get it off yesterday before the weather chased me off the project. What are the odds that I'll drop the woodruff key into the timing gear housing when I pull it out? Also curious about whether I need to pull it all the way down just to replace the shaft seal.

 

I like to put a bunch of paper towel under the main shaft in the timing case before removing the IP. I have always torn the IP down to replace the front seal, I know others have done it with the IP mostly assembled, but I have never had luck doing it that way.

 

I found the leak. Not normal decay of seals, but a broken bolt. With the cover now flexing, the O ring under it blew out. Now I have to figure out how to get a broken hardened (10-9, almost grade 8) small bolt out of an aluminum case. It's not crusty or corroded, but the break is uneven, making it look near impossible to get a hole drilled in the center of it.

I found the bolt head laying in a depression in the poppet cover.

 

Well that sucks big time!! I had to re/re the motor in one of my quads last year and the replacement aluminum cases I got had a couple bolts snapped off flush in the them, about same size as the ones in your IP. Tried a bunch of extractors, LH drill bits, but the best way I fould was to weld a small nut onto the broken bolt as best you can.

 

The screw came out easy.....too easy. I knackered the case a bit, knocking a small chip of aluminum out between the screw hole and the O ring groove because the drill I guided in to put a flat on the screw turned the screw in a bit allowing the bit to hit the case.

It ain't the dumbest thing I've done in my life, but I feel foolish for not taking the time to make a proper drill guide.

I think I can fix it with JB Weld. I found a socket that is exactly the right diameter to make a form for the epoxy. I'm experimenting with release agents now. First one I'm trying is KIWI shoe polish.
The trick will be to get the shape without messing up the surface of the O-ring groove, and keeping the threads clear.
Ticks me off. Pump should be back in the truck, and the truck pulling the bass boat by now.

 

Many was the time in my former career that a left-hand drill bit took a broken bolt out easily...But you are correct that a drill guide might have prevented the damage anyway......Ben

 

I'm thinking I need to get a set of those.

 

The JB weld repair went well. KIWI shoe polish makes a reasonable release agent.

This thing has been taking me out to lunch. Spent days trying to get one screw out of the KSB housing. I finally got a torx bit and a T handle wrench that didn't strip out or break. Screw still wouldn't come. I finally figured the head must be spalled or welded to the casting. I went at it with a little pin punch and a tack hammer, sideways, and the inspection lacquer that had remained unscathed shattered off. Next try, with great effort, finally cracked it loose.

Got the leak fixed, and put in a M&H timing spacer, a 3200 governor spring, and turned the fuel pin to the far side. Now for some decent weather so I can put it back into the truck and see how it runs.

I think I'm going to try to acquire a rebuildable core, a work stand, and a few tools, I need a built up pump in the spare locker, especially if I break one far from home. I'll build it stock and have the local diesel shop calibrate it for me. If it sets up, it should be good to go. I can tear the seals off it later and turn it up.

 

Woo Hoo it runs.
Decided to replace the fuel filter, and the fuel heater came loose. 25 year old O-ring was about a half a thou thicker than the groove. Odds were zilch to unbelievable that it would seal when tightened. Found an O-ring at a Chrysler dealer 30 miles away, and only got ripped about $12 for it.
Anyway, I pieced everything back in, leaving the fuel line nuts on the injectors loose. I pumped the priming lever until fuel showed up at the bleed screw. Closed the screw and pumped it another 40 or 50 strokes, until I felt a slight change in the feel.
Bumped the starter a couple of times, tightened up the injector that leaked, repeated until all were tight. Started the engine to immediate smooth running. Now I have to go buy a pawn shop 10mm box wrench to bend so I can set the Idle. Then I'm going to turn in the max fuel screw a turn or two and see what happens. I still have a full tank of winter fuel, so that adds a little wimpiness to it.

 

Congrats....glad to hear it all went fairly well and you got it back up and running with little to no issue.

I have a spare Non-IC and IC Injection pump for both my motors....never know and I'd rather have it collecting dust then need one in a pinch and not be able to find one, or have to pay huge buck$$$ to get one in a timely fashion. My Spare IC pump I snagged off E-bay one late night a few years ago....person had just listed it with a "Buy it Now" of $99 bucks....couldn't hit the button fast enough. Only thing wrong with it was the two large springs were shattered.

 

Could some of you post a picture of the wrench you bent to reach the low idle screw lock nut.

 

Check out Geno's Garage. They have a picture of the tool they sell.
It is cheap enough, or you could make one that looks like it even cheaper.
I am glad you got it back up and running.

 

how did the bolt break???

 

Must have been manufacturing defect, ie stress fracture caused by too sharp a root in the thread, hard steel. A real freak for sure.