installing a pyro guage into a new turbo housing
installing a pyro guage into a new turbo housing
Ok so I have my new 16cm2 housing and I'm going to install it tommorrow. The truck currently has the sensor installed after the turbo. The previous owner drilled a hole into the housing then welded a nut to the housing and screwed the sensor into the nut. I'm guessing that this is not the best method. I know that its better to install the sensor before the turbo but how do you loacte where to drill? Do you tap the housing or weld on a bung? How far in should the sensor sit? Thanks again!
Re:installing a pyro guage into a new turbo housing
No reason to hack at the turbine housing like that. Just drill and tap the exhaust manifold in the center of one of the exhaust ports about an inch inward from the flange. Probe only needs to stick into the manifold about 1/2" in order to get a good reading. Do not let it touch the sides or the bottom of the manifold. Here are a couple of pics of mine so you can see the probe location. ;D
Cheers,
Sean

Cheers,
Sean
Re:installing a pyro guage into a new turbo housing
The directions on the probe install from the TST website were bang on for location and fit of the pyro. I have a location pic in my collection linked in my sig..
TST Gauge install
J-eh
TST Gauge install
J-eh
Re:installing a pyro guage into a new turbo housing
OK im going to get a lot of grief for this but I would not go pre turbo.
1--you are only reading 3 cylinders, either the front 3 or rear 3 if you go pre turbo.
2--I have seen pyro stingers disappear, it they are pre turbo than guess where they will go, right through the turbo.
It is much easier and safer to go post turbo, the trucking industry has been doing it for years. just dont run over 1250 degrees and you will be fine. ;D
OK now give it to me with both barrels, Im expecting it :P
1--you are only reading 3 cylinders, either the front 3 or rear 3 if you go pre turbo.
2--I have seen pyro stingers disappear, it they are pre turbo than guess where they will go, right through the turbo.
It is much easier and safer to go post turbo, the trucking industry has been doing it for years. just dont run over 1250 degrees and you will be fine. ;D
OK now give it to me with both barrels, Im expecting it :P
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Re:installing a pyro guage into a new turbo housing
I work in the Oil and Gas industry and every engine out there from 200 hp to 5000 hp have pre-turbo pyros, usually 1 per cylinder plus one pre-turbo. I have never heard of a pyro head going through the turbo, they have been bent from a valve piece hitting it, but never have broken off.
Post turbo is fine for the trucking industry. They don't juice their trucks and worry more about cool down than excessive temps.
If you are modifying your truck, you will need to add (at a climbing scale) (about 10° I think) for every # of boost for temperature drop across the turbo for your pre-turbo number that is critical. Also you will have a floating red line for temp. Below peak Hp (if you know where that is on your particular setup) you will allow only 900°F post turbo temp. At full speed and power you can have 1000°F red line, with the exception of the rule above if you run above 25 psi.
The 1250 rule only applies to pre-turbo temps.
There you go... At least one barrel.
J-eh
Post turbo is fine for the trucking industry. They don't juice their trucks and worry more about cool down than excessive temps.
If you are modifying your truck, you will need to add (at a climbing scale) (about 10° I think) for every # of boost for temperature drop across the turbo for your pre-turbo number that is critical. Also you will have a floating red line for temp. Below peak Hp (if you know where that is on your particular setup) you will allow only 900°F post turbo temp. At full speed and power you can have 1000°F red line, with the exception of the rule above if you run above 25 psi.
The 1250 rule only applies to pre-turbo temps.
There you go... At least one barrel.

J-eh
Re:installing a pyro guage into a new turbo housing
If you really are concerned about the reading of only one group of cylinders, you can actually open a passage in the divider casting between ports. I personally don't think that it would make a lot of difference though. Lets face it, when you're up at the temps needed to cause worry, you should be easing back no matter which port you're monitoring really...
Pastor Bob.
Pastor Bob.
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