trying to swap turbine housings...

for those that have done it, you can imagine how stubborn it is after sitting for 260K and ~18 years...

I got the whole unit out of the truck, got the compressor housing off, got the nut and compressor wheel off, and was working on the "20 minute beating" that I found on here as the solution on how to break the turbine housing free from the turbine...

one errant swing, and I busted off about a 2" section of whatever you call the lip left that the compressor housing mounts to...

since it's on the compressor side, which doens't hold the boost, is it still usable broken?

if not, can you replace just that disc shaped piece?

Thanks.
Greg

 

You can go to www.htturbo.com and click "Parts" on the side menu. I'm assuming its the "backing plate"; HTT sends a machined one with their Stage IV kits, and I'm pretty sure they could get you a replacement.

Try heating the housing to get it off, if you havent already. Just work around the housing evenly with a torch for a while and then you can usually get it off pretty easily.

 

got the housing off...

since the broken piece came off in one chunk, we're gonna try some JB Weld and then clamp it on with a new o-ring...and see how it goes...

Greg

 

Are you sure JB Weld is OK to use with 1200*+ temps?

 

I know that JB weld doesn't do 120 PSI, not too sure about temperatures though. It does stick the strongest on metal, however...

 

He's talking about the backing plate to the compressor side....if he gets that to 1200, he's surely overspeeding that turbo still, JB Weld makes me nervous. Maybe a local yard has a junk core H1C you can snag one from....

 

I'll keep an eye out for one, and also check the HTT site (although I'm still a little ticked off at them for what they charged me for shipping on my last order)...

way I look at it...the clamp is gonna hold the piece in place, and as long as it's tight enough it'll compress the o-ring and seal everything up...

worst case (as I see it) is there will be a very slight leak on the compressor side...it'll still run, so I can fix it without paying out the nose for an immediate purchase...since the local Cummins dealer said I couldn't buy just the backing plate, and would have to buy the entire turbo...

I'll let you know how it goes...

didn't get it all put back together, due to a couple other issues, and I'm out of town Thu/Fri, then Sun/Thu, then Sat...so it'll be another two weeks before I really get back on it...thank goodness for the company S-10...

BTW...JB Weld is good to 300F...

Greg

 

I had the same issue with mine, didn't manage to break it though, fortunately! Sprayed a little Kroil a few times and let it soak in for a couple days and it finally let loose. I used some anti-seize compound on the new one so that doesn't happen anymore.

 

Get someone to TIG weld it for you!!

 

ended up buying a rebuilt kit and replacing everything I could...

still have the issue of the "patched" backing plate...


I should get the turbo with the Banks Big Head wastegate on the 12cm housing, plus the Stage III compressor and new intake tube all installed by the end of the week...we'll see how it goes...

I'm towing my Jeep next weekend, so I'm gonna tow with just the current upgrades...then tweak the pump and install the 3200 spring and Ol' Smokey fuel pin before the next trip...just to see the difference...

Greg

 

300* is by NOOOOOOO means good enough. just so you know.

 

Yeah, you need a new plate. That patch job is not going to last, and you don't want the housing getting cockeyed and tearing up the impeller.

 

Get another turbine housing. Any salvage yard should have an HC1 laying around. If I wasnt so far away from "home" I could check to see if I have one in my turbo stash.

The right way to break loose those turbine bolts is to hit the side of the hex head with a flat punch on as many sides as you can, then you can break free the bolt with your wrench. Sometimes some S'OK Penetrating Oil or some heat from a torch helps, but is not always needed.