I've got a '91 D250. Today I went to start my truck after getting off work. As it attempted to start, it stopped, and made a pop sound right behind the steering wheel in the ignition area. A bit of electrical smoke came out of the ignition area behind the steering wheel. Now the ignition won't work at all. I haven't been able to tow my truck home to look at it yet, but wanted to get any insight as to what this could be from this forum.

Please help if you are familiar with this issue. Thanks.

-Jeff

 

Sounds like the ignition switch went out

 

Is this easy to replace?

 

Yes. Just take the column stuff apart and replace the unit. No big deal except the ignition key won't work the door locks any more. I got mine from NAPA. Just be sure & follow directions to get the sequence right.

 

Also, to save yourself a tow, you can jump across the starter solenoid and start the engine. As long as the keyswitch still unlocks the steering wheel, you should be able to make it home.

Keep in mind however, that it won't be charging or anything, so no radio or headlights or the like.

 

If you jump your starter w/ a screw driver or something keep in mind that if your ignition switch is fired it wont send power to the solinoid on the injection pump, so for fuel a simple wire strand from the batt + should do the trick. Im sure you already know all this just wanted to remind ya before you pay for a tow

 

Replacing the key-switch is covered in the "sticky".

You will NEED a security TORX screw-driver/bit, the kind that has a little hole in it's center.

Once you get those screws out, match them up with some normal ones at the hardware-store and throw those silly security screws over in the neighbor's pool.

I opt for a different route when key-switches go bad and eliminate that whole troublesome mess from the column by wiring everything through dash-mounted switches.

 

Forgot about the FSS.

I've been part of the pull-cable club for way too long apparently.

 

And DON'T crawl under the truck to "jump" the starter.

This is easily accomplished right there at the top end of the big starter-cable.

Taped alongside the cable are two wires, BROWN and PINK; right close to the cable's end should be a plug-connector on those two wires.

MAKE CERTAIN THE TRUCK IS OUT OF GEAR --- NEUTRAL

Un-plug that connector and, using a short "U"-shaped jumper-wire, connect across the two terminals and the engine should crank.

Of course a jumper-wire is also necessary to the fuel-solenoid if it still functions.

 

I got my new ignition cylinder at Dodge and the guy rekeyed it right at the desk so I'm still "one-key", ... I no doubt paid too much but got a good result.

 

Never thought to try that. I'd pay extra to keep just one key. But I seldom lock my truck so it doesn't bother me much. Mind to share what it did cost?

 

You must live amongst more trustworthy people than I do.

I'm not so much worried about what they might take out of my truck, but more-so what they might put IN there.

Seeing as I ALWAYS keep mine locked, I don't get many surprises; but, I have seen dead fish, dead rabbits, open cans of salmon, live snakes, live mice, blue-tail lizards, women's under-garments, you name it, hidden behind and under vehicle seats.


Of course, being in the meth-head capitol of the world, there is also plenty of possibility of things getting taken out also.

 

So your wife actually believes you when you told her that someone planted those undies undr the seat???

Actually I do lock it when I go to Lexington or Louisville but otherwise I don't even bother to pull tghe keys out. But you have a valid point about the redneck pharmacists in your neck of the woods, what a shame.

 

If you havent already replaced your switch, here is how it is done.
Besides the switch there also might be some burned wiring you need to repair.

Check under the plactic cover under the steering column and see if there any melted places in the plastic, when too much current is drawn through the accessory portion of the fuse panel the wiring to the ign switch will burn up, this can also cause the ign switch to lock up the hang in the start position and not return to run.

These wires carry all of the current for the accy. portion of the fuse panel including the blower motor, power windows or anything else you might add.



The only cure is to install a power relay and completly remove the load from the switch.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=241339

I have pictures of this somewhere if you want to see them.

Jim

 

I always lock my truck besides for the reason it is my work truck that carries my tools,

At home my truck is in view of never less than 4 video cameras with full night vision capabilities, most of the time in the evening hours whenever I am at work or at the store I will leave my parking lights on, this also draws attention to the truck so everyone notices it or anyone looking at for reasons other than because they like it.

My alarm system has LED's flashing at both ends to let bystanders know it is alarmed and should someone get too close while admiring it they will be greeted by 2) 30-watt sirens, every light including headlights flashing including a 130db pain generator in the cab, also includes shock sensors along with the usual starter interupt.

Our nice neighborhood has now become full of gangs and drug dealers.

Jim