1st Gen. Ram - All Topics Discussion for all Dodge Rams prior to 1994. This includes engine, drivetrain and non-drivetrain discussions. Anything prior to 1994 should go in here.

I think it's time

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Old Nov 25, 2006 | 03:49 AM
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From: Winston Oregon
I think it's time

The old girl is getting a little tired I think. She has a little to much blow by out the breather tube. And that's just running easy. After pulling hard on a cold day it looks like my exhaust coming out the fender well. So I thinks I will pull her down this winter and go through the power plant with some new pistons, rings, bearings, stainless oil tubes, cam grind, and a little porting and polishing. Has anyone else had one of these behemeths apart and back together again? How was the job? Oh, by the way. She still runs like a raped ape Even being worn out.
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Old Nov 25, 2006 | 04:19 AM
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From: Canuckistan
Sounds like a great winter project!
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Old Nov 25, 2006 | 11:37 AM
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From: Crockett, CA
Just curious, how many miles are on her?
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Old Nov 25, 2006 | 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Ilikebikes
Just curious, how many miles are on her?
I am curious too.
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Old Nov 25, 2006 | 01:42 PM
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From: Southern Oregon
a few



Thinking he's over the 300K mark.... NONE of them were 'easy miles'
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Old Nov 25, 2006 | 02:01 PM
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From: Gaston OR
Wish you were a little closer Tim. I would love to visit your project and maybe lend a helping hand. Keep us posted and if there is anything I can do just let me know.

Bob
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Old Nov 25, 2006 | 03:07 PM
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It's not a real bad job rebuilding a mechanical B model. It much easier with the engine out of the truck or equipment. It is nice to be able to turn the block upside down to install the lifters and cam, but it can be done in any position.

We use a lot of FP Diesel aftermarket parts for Cummins at work. FP is owned by Federal Mogal. Much of the FP diesel line of parts are EXACTLY the same as OEM parts as Federal is a OEM supplier, but we pay significantly less if it comes with a FP sticker on the box! Good luck with the winter project, hope your garage is heated
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Old Nov 25, 2006 | 07:08 PM
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From: Winston Oregon
Well, the engine has right at 350,000 on it. But like mark said, they are all hard miles. Thank's for the offer Bob, I will keep you in mind. And I do have an engine stand that rotates on flange bearings and has stops every 2 inches of travel. And it is located in my shop with a real good heater. I will be buying all of my parts through Cummins Northwest so what ever they consider good parts is what I will use. Those guy's have been real good to us around these parts. But thank's for the info on the fp parts. I figure on doing some fab work on those cowl crack's while the front end is off as well. Or should I say cowl holes.
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Old Nov 25, 2006 | 10:29 PM
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From: Crockett, CA
Wow, 350k hard miles and it all held together. Gotta love the durability of these old motors.

Now I don't feel so bad for mine. I have 218k but 215k of those were miles on a completely stock engine, so I guess mine is still pretty much a virgin .
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Old Nov 26, 2006 | 08:20 AM
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From: Winston Oregon
Mine was a virgin as well, untill my nephew got ahold of her for the first time. It was all down hill from then on.
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Old Nov 26, 2006 | 09:02 AM
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Makes me wonder what kind of shape my old 91 was in. 350K actually sounds a little soon for a complete rebuild, unless stuff has gotten hot repeatedly. The 91 (I sold it in Feb) had 325K showing, and had pulled trailers all its life until I got it at 240K. I wasnt easy on it (40+ psi at least once a day), but didnt overheat stuff. But, if you have a lot of blowby, it may be that time.

Daniel
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Old Nov 26, 2006 | 09:14 AM
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Timb, have you thought of running the blowby out the exhaust? I'd hate to mess with it if it still has good compression.
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Old Nov 26, 2006 | 12:32 PM
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From: Winston Oregon
No Wanna I have'nt thought about that. That's really not a bad idea though. But I am wanting to do the cam, And the stainless spray tubes under the pistons. And a few more secret squirrel things inside there. To include ballancing everything. And the head will be off to do the porting also. But the most important thing is that I really want to see the insides of one of these things really bad. And you guy's will get lots of pitures while I am at it as well.
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Old Nov 26, 2006 | 12:43 PM
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If you do plumb the breather into the exhaust make sure it's in an area of the exhaust where it changes from high to lower pressure. This will help create a bit of a vacuum in the breather. I've seen a lot of engines get really leaky really fast because the exhaust was pressurizing the crankcase!
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