I think I got Problems
11-01-2008, 10:25 AM
#16
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There are still threads left to turn it in farther. It seems to be turning in really hard now is something hanging up. What is this longer power screw that you are referring to?
11-01-2008, 10:31 AM
#18
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The o-ring is bottoming in its bore. Stop turning or your leak will return.
The power screw is the fulcrum for the governor lever.
Guys who can't make the pump run away have had good success in welding more material to the end of the screw and reshaping it so it's longer than stock.
The power screw is the fulcrum for the governor lever.
Guys who can't make the pump run away have had good success in welding more material to the end of the screw and reshaping it so it's longer than stock.
11-01-2008, 10:45 AM
#19
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Cool Thanks Dave. So if I have more material to push the governor lever, it will run away before I bend or break the governor lever correct? How many people have been unsuccessful in causing their pumps to run away and why do you think these pumps are not more consistent from truck to truck based on factory settings with similar modifications?Cool Thanks Dave. So if I have more material to push the governor lever, it will run away before I bend or break the governor lever correct? How many people have been unsuccessful in causing their pumps to run away and why do you think these pumps are not more consistent from truck to truck based on factory settings with similar modifications? Do you know of a good image that shows this screw acting with the gov lever? I have seen a pic of the end of the screw and the lever but nothing that shows how they work mechanically together.
11-01-2008, 11:41 AM
#20
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Cool Thanks Dave. So if I have more material to push the governor lever, it will run away before I bend or break the governor lever correct? How many people have been unsuccessful in causing their pumps to run away and why do you think these pumps are not more consistent from truck to truck based on factory settings with similar modifications? Do you know of a good image that shows this screw acting with the gov lever? I have seen a pic of the end of the screw and the lever but nothing that shows how they work mechanically together.
Why are they all so different? Beats me. Mine won't do a full-blown run away, but it's a "hanger" when turned as far as it will go.
I'll see what I can find for a pic or diagram.
06-26-2009, 06:48 AM
#21
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I'm having a very similar problem. I wanted to try for some more power, and had a look see at my fuel screw, started to turn it in. The screw simply will not turn any more, and it's at the same exact point as those in the pictures above. I can unscrew it smoothly and it doesn't seem like there is anything broken, more like it just comes up against something solid.
Idle speed screw is set way down like in the picture, too, to get a smooth idle.
Do they make different sizes of power (fuel) screws ?
Idle speed screw is set way down like in the picture, too, to get a smooth idle.
Do they make different sizes of power (fuel) screws ?
06-26-2009, 08:27 AM
#22
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My 92 fuel screw is 1/4'' to 3/8'' longer than the 93. I welded about 3/8'' onto the 93 fuel screw to get it to runaway. It took about 2 full turns past where it stopped previously to get to runaway. Yours may take only a half turn or it may take 3 turns. The pumps are basically the same but the parts are probably superceded to new and improved stuff. When I welded mine I made a little tray with water in it to keep the threads ect cool, but this is just me thinking that the remaining screw shouldn't get to hot. Good luck with it.
06-26-2009, 03:09 PM
#23
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Here is a pic to give you an idea. This pump has a non-AFC top on it.
http://www.cs.rochester.edu/u/jag/vw...ARVESmall2.GIF
When you turn the power screw in more, you are actually moving the control sleeve. This makes the plunger "pump" more since it has to stroke futher to reach the "spill port". I think thats how it works anyways.
http://www.cs.rochester.edu/u/jag/vw...ARVESmall2.GIF
When you turn the power screw in more, you are actually moving the control sleeve. This makes the plunger "pump" more since it has to stroke futher to reach the "spill port". I think thats how it works anyways.
06-26-2009, 09:36 PM
#25
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i compared 3 screws
one from my 91 non intercooled
one from my 92 intercooled engine
and one from a core engine that had the intercooled style injection lines
they were all the same
one from my 91 non intercooled
one from my 92 intercooled engine
and one from a core engine that had the intercooled style injection lines
they were all the same
06-26-2009, 10:08 PM
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Hmm. I wonder why mine stops turning with threads still sticking out, and won't hit runaway ?
06-26-2009, 10:18 PM
#27
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06-26-2009, 10:39 PM
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Theres a Fuel screw made now That is longer and already has the collar removed. Heres The bosch part number.
1-463-402-423 Around $20
Can only be had at a local pump shop. I can't find anywhere online that has them.
1-463-402-423 Around $20
Can only be had at a local pump shop. I can't find anywhere online that has them.
06-27-2009, 12:29 AM
#29
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Thanks ! I'll check with my local Bosch shop, and see if they have it or can order it.
06-27-2009, 01:02 AM
#30
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I welded about 1/4" on the end of the screw in my 92, the o-ring boss bottomed out long before it came close to runaway. I still haven't gotten it to the point of runaway, I've had it so it hangs above 2500, but I haven't pushed it past that, that's enough to push 34 psi with stock injectors and turbo... LOL