ive done all the research i could before starting a new tread on this subject, im just suoer confused, but i apologize to anyone upset i made another post on this topic

please tell me where to look next, ive changed the alternator, i get a RPM readin from the scanner so it cant be my CPS right? i juss did the pcm check from the sticky and i got nothing at all the cavitys i was told to check, i felt the fusible links coming from what ive seen reffered to as the duckfoot and they felt ok, even put a new ASD relay, i have the symptoms of a bad pcm such as no wait to start light, no speedometer, and no overdrive, i dont know about A/C or cruise control since the didnt work before.

any help wpuld be greatly greatly appriciatted

 

I didn't see your original thread, so I am unsure of just what issues you are having.

Often, alternator charging issues can be solved by dis-connecting, cleaning, and reconnecting the TWO dis-connects that are in the main charge wire that goes from alternator to battery; one about a foot from the battery; the other between the alternator and steerboard fender.

These get all corroded and lose good contact, causing all manner of electrical problems.

 

I had the exact same problem...

My quick find of the issue was solved simply by reading this Sticky. Faith is awesome, with her knowledge base, and it immediate showed through when I switched the first and 3rd relay. Since you changed the relay already, it's good possibility that the Crank Sensor went bad or is out of alignment / spec as in the post I just linked. Check that first, look for frayed wires all the way from the crank sensor to where it meets the harness @ the top of the engine. Maybe something wore through.

Clean the terminals.... better yet replace... on the ASD solenoid, which is located on the back of the Injector pump towards the rear firewall. The terminal spades get corroded, and the first thing I do when I purchased these vehicles, I've owned, is to clean those terminals and ends.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...04&postcount=3

If your ASD solenoid looks like mine did.....


Good luck.

 

These are buggers. Is it just one circuit that isn't working or several? Those links can look ok but be gone on the inside. Did you try jumping past the link to see if that made everything function?

X2 on the connections & grounds.

 

thanks bear killer ill try that, and ntjman ill try that was wel, where is the solenoid located? is it near the relay?? and krb how do i check the wires?

 

Here is a pic that should tell you what you need to know.

http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummin...p/inc-pump.htm

 

You'll have to run a jumper to bypass that fusible link. From the battery find where it goes to the firewall connection. Main thing to know is - are all the problems on the same circuit or hit and miss?

 

Redneck.


Maybe this thread I started could help you.


https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...s-t284142.html



I know it sure helped me...

 

Sounds as if the crank sensor gone bad. By not letting the pcm know that the engine is running, will not charge, no cruise and no speedometer. You could also put an external voltage regulator on it and be on your way.

 

how many volts are you getting out of the alternator when its running? what is the drop in volts you see to the battery? 13.5 alt/ 11.5batt? If so try your luck w/ running a 12gauge wire from the terminal on the alternator directly to the batt+ drive the truck and see if you get your overdrive back.
I plan to take my PCM out of my truck as it has no buisness in these pickups

 

This sounds like the classic crank sensor gone bad. Get one from cummins $60.00 (there is a part # somewhere in the stickies) not from the dealer $130.00. I have tried all the other ways to buy pass the computer and a $60.00 crank sensor is the easiest..

 

AMEN: BEARKILLER

I found in my W-250 and intermittant problem with the charging system. One day it was good and another day nothing. Not charging. I FOUND the 2 fusible links that come from the positive battery terminal to the air heater relay had bad connections. The way I found it was when I turn on the key the WAIT TO START indicator would not come on. SO, I just started moving one wire at a time and when I heard the relays kick in I found the problem. I was just riding down the road when I noticed when I hit town the headlifgts were not as bright as should be. Looked down and no charge. Please check all connections before going out and spending a bunch of money. Remember, that people in the parts business are in the business to sell parts. And, rarely are electrical parts returnable, much less get your money back. Also, keep the crank pulley clean and simply check the clearance of the Crankshaft position sensor, if applicable. Good Luck

 

After driving for 10 days without any issues I started the engine and the wait to start light just stayed on, but, the air heater relays were not engaged. Non of the other lights in the panel came on. When the engine started it was not showing any alternator charge. So today, I went out to check if it was acting the same. (sometimes changes on it's own) Turned the ignition to on and the panel lights came on as they should for an instant and then went to just the wait to start light just came on and stayed. I removed and then plugged back again the push on plugs on the air heater relays. After that the air heater relays engaged. Started the engine and the 2 fusible links connected to battery were very hot and sort of smoking almost. Now charging, the air heat system cycled several times. It is just 50 degrees here in Florida this morning which seems the air heat system would not be needed very much.

For a year now this has been an on/off accurance and if anyone knows or has any suggestions I would greatly appreciate your thoughts for a permanent fix for this problem.

Thanks Up Front

Will