I just swapped the IP on my pump for one a little newer and nicer. I lined up the mark on the back of the timing case with the mark on the pump. It just so happens that this position is advanced a lot compared to the other pump's mark. Is this just an internal calibration? My truck is running weird right now. It's noisier with less boost and power with less EGTs.

This replacement pump has a KSB solenoid on it and my old one did not. I didn't hook it up. How can I tell if it's the IC vs non-IC KSB? I would like it to just be disabled since the truck was fine before with no KSB. I think this may be the cause of the advancing if it's a non-IC KSB.

Can anyone shed some light on this?

 

Mooktank,

Too much timing will cause your engine to have a 'raspy' or 'metallic' sound. Your exhaust will have a caustic smell. You'll gain top end but lose low end grunt. All of this creates higher drive pressures. Give this thread some time as others will enumerate on this topic. I have always timed my truck by ear as I've never learned how to do the spill port method with the gauge. Try backing it off a bit and see if it runs any better.

 

I'm mainly concerned that the KSB is activating and advancing timing. It definitely has that more metallic sound.

 

It certainly could be over-advanced. The match mark aligns that pump to that engine, it now means nothing. Try backing it down some and see if that gives you the result you want.

It also could be the KSB if you have the non-intercooled (wax motor) style.

This is a non-intercooled KSB. It is activated when it has no power. If you want normal advance all the time, power it off the shutdown solenoid.

An intercooled (electromagnetic) style KSB is much shorter, looks like a nut with a terminal sticking out of it.

 

Mine does look like that one. I read leaving it unplugged will advance the timing a lot by changing to a higher pressure. I think I'll wire it up to the shutdown solenoid to be safe. Either that or I could do away with it completely with the parts from my old pump. Ehhhh.

 

Make sure your ksb is working properly..like wanna said wire it off fuel solinoid so your pump housing pressure stays normal .. if you dont it will evetually break the spring in the pressure regulator and in turn tear up the cam plate in the rotary vane pump...

 

hey wanna, that's what the ksb on my 93 looks like. i'm confused, although thats not new for me . mine has a wire to it and i thought unplugging it would disable it. above it is said that plugging it in disables it. i don't really care if it works or not but i don't think i really need it down here.

kind of a side question, my pump is advanced about 1/8 from stock. when i installed my 185 injectors it seemed to lose some bottom end. i gage this by releasing the clutch in second gear with the engine idling. with stock injectors it would walk away, now with the 185's it tries to stumble. no pump adjustments have been made since changing injectors. i thought injectors would improve power across the board. what gives?

 

Daryl - look at the end of the KSB towards the wire. An intercooled KSB is much shorter between the hex flats and the wire connection. They do look very similar, just one is shorter than the other.