OK, i think i have all the info i need to do the 3200 spring, fuel pin, grinding, and i think i have the timing thing too. Now all i need is to know how to take the pump off.

I can see the obvious 3 bolts in the triangle, and the one at the other end. Along with the fuel lines and linkeges. Just need to know if there is anything I'm missing.

One quick question about timing i couldnt find in the search. By advancing your timing a little bit you gain power and drop EGT's? But its not good for heavy towing right?




Thanks

 

"Den" (or somebody with a name like that) has a VERY complete set of instructions for the 3200 spring install on their site. Here's the link:

http://dens-site.net/Dodge_CTD/Gover...ing/index.html

It's NOT neccessary to remove the pump for the install. In fact, it's down-right not recommended.

 

From what you've said about what you plan to tow, a little extra timing will be a good thing. Do the 1/8" bump when you put severything back together from the governor spring install.

Like Tuckerdee said, removing the whole pump would be a lot of extra work.

 

gauges?

 

I already have gauges, just need to install them.

So to do all the things i listed i dont need to remove the pump? Where do i find the timing bolt/screw?

The reason i thought i had to remove it is because the site with the instructions had it off. LOL

 

Timing the VE pump is done by rotating the entire pump relative to the timing case it bolts to. Once the three bolts you mentioned are loosened, the pump can then be rotated toward the block, for more advance, or away from the block, for less advance. The top section of the pump (AFC housing) has to be removed to do the spring/grinding. The AFC is easier to remove if the pump is retarded a ways back---the allen heads holding the AFC are NEARLY inaccessable with the pump timed 'normally'. So, there is no 'timing bolt' or screw, timing is simply set by the pumps position relative to the engine---just like when gassers used to have distributors...hence the VE is a distributor pump. Be sure to make reference marks on the pump and timing case before any movement of the pump...trust me, it's no fun thinking your timing is on when it's really waaaay back. Hope this helps.
greg

----check my gallery for how I marked my pump relative to the gear housing.
g

 

Thanks, thats exactly what i was looking for. So i will gain some power with advance?

 

IMHO, you gain power 'potential' with advanced timing, especially with the 3200 rpm spring. The fuel needs time to burn and as the engine spins faster, all else staying the same, less fuel burns in the cylinder due to the piston traveling through the power stroke faster. More fuel is leftover to burn in the exhaust manifold/turbine housing, hence higher egts with lots of fuel and lots of rpm. Now, if we advance the timing to light the fire earlier before top dead center, more of the btu potential of the fuel is taken advantage of on the power stroke of the piston and less fuel is leftover to keep burning in the exhaust maifold/turbine housing, hence lower egts and more 'power' with advanced timing. The downside is a stock headgasket can only put up with so much and advanced timing sends cylinder pressures through the roof when pushed too far...that problem is then multiplied when the engine is under high load with lots of boost. It's a fine line, especially for the towing set. I think Alec explained this a lot better than me at one time, but I couldn't find his post, so hopefully my attempt will help some.
greg

 

great info. I will try a little advance when i do the exhaust in the morning.

 

Just to complete a thought, since advanced timing keeps more of the burn in the cylinder, you will actually see lower boost numbers since heat is what creates boost

g

 

There are 3 nuts and one bolt to loosen in order to move the injection pump. The large nuts are the obvious ones...the bolt is a 10mm and it is under and back of the injection pump and threads into a bracket...so don't forget to do that one.
Next keep in mind that the pump will likely be firmly "stuck" to the gear cover and that, plus the injector lines will resist your efforts to move the pump.
You can have a buddy reach over the pump top while you use some persuasion to tweak it up. I loosen all the nuts/bolt then snug up the middle nut enough to hold the pump in place once it's moved upwards...if it springs back down then snug up the center nut a bit more till it holds the pump in place while you tighten the nuts/bolt back up.

Generally you can get away with a fair bit of timing so long as you don't couple that with really rude EGT's....when you have both, you're asking for head gasket trouble.
There is an "optimum" timing set on these trucks/pumps.
That timing value is in part, dependant on your fueling levels...for the most part you can really get pretty close using the 1/8" method....I know it's not "exact" but it does put you right in the ballpark for timing value.

Remember your altering/impacting the start/stop of the injection cycle, the start/duration/stop of the burn cycle when you alter these things.
All of this is tied to crankshaft degree's rotation.

If you go too far on your timing it will start to sound like the old Mercedes did...kinda metallic rattle sound, especially at idle.

The other factor here is pump pressure...that is a whole 'nother topic.

pb....