cootz

So after many days of thought I finally came up with what works for me. This is intended for 4wd, if 2wd you can still use the same principle but one less bend. Simple, cheap and works.

First, you will require the following parts:

-temp probe from Autometer (comes with temp gauge kit)
- 1/2" NPT tee
- 1/2" nipple
- 1/2" x 1/2" NPT to tubing connector
- approx 3" of 1/2" tubing with compression fittings (stainless steel of course)
- 1/2" tubing 90 degree elbow
- approx 4" of 1/2" clear tubing with compression fittings
- 1/2" tubing cap
- thread tape
- 5 qrts 5W30 Synthetic Oil

Tools required:
- 13/16" and 7/8" combination wrenches for the tubing fittings
- pipe wrench
- ratched to remove drain and fil plugs


Step 1: Buy all your pieces and ensure it will all work

This is how it looks on the table:








Step 2: Drain your Getrag

Step 3: Fill your Getrag as much as possible without any plumbing installed yet (should be about 4 qrts), use a good brand of Synthetic 5W30. This makes the filling job much quicker.

Step 4: Install the tee fitting and nipple - use thread tape or locktite; either or, I used thread tape. All NPT fittings require threadtape (and going from tubing to NPT), tubing fitting to tubing fitting do not require the tape

Step 5: Install the temp probe - use tape

Step 6: Install the remainder of the tubing fittings

Step 7: Using a small oiler or transfer tube, fill the remaining 1 qrt or so into the Getrag. Go slow as it will be under vacuum.

Step 8: You should be able to see your level, use a sharpie and mark where you "overfill" level should be. Now its quicker than ever to check your level.

Mine looks like this, I have yet to hook up my temp gauge, if you look close, you can see my oil level:



I ended up using a smaller schedule Tee fitting, the one in the above first pics was overkill as it was rated for 3000psi (at least I hope your Getrag doesn't see that sort of pressure). I was contemplating putting the temp probe on the drain hole but didn't for a couple reasons: 1) Easier for things to hit it 2) If it ever did begin to leak, you would have to drain your entire Rag to fix it, where it is now, you would only lose a quart 3) Hot temperatures rise, more accurate readings. Now you can check your Getrag oil level even faster than your engine oil, hope this helps.

Chrisreyn

Only question is ' Is your tubing cap vented?".....
I could see it not reading properly if it wasnt.....

Oh, and what opening did you install the nipple into? the PTO cover?

cootz

No the tubing cap is not vent, if there were a leak somewhere, the vacuum wouldn't be such to prevent the level from falling. It may be off by a fraction of an inch.

The nipple is installed in the Getrag fill hole.

willieboy

That temp probe will never be accurate since it is not in the moving fluid. Putting it in a tee will make it see mostly fluid that is not circulated very well making your ability to see temperature spikes very unlikely. You may see average temps reasonably well, but temperature reaction time is very diminished when you mount a temp gauge outside of the moving fluid path.

P.J

Very nice write up. If I had to alter one thing I would simply turn the "tee" so the probe was actually facing inside the case. I know, this opens up the possibility for carnage if the probe were to break off, but chances are 1 in a million.
So, in other words, the straight leg (not 90*) would be heading right in, the sight gauge would still be off to the side, just as you have it.

Very nice though, good details and pics.

andyr354

Same thought I had.

wannadiesel

Excellent work, it's been added to the sticky.

BearKiller

That will be even easier on a 2WD and the stand-off to miss the shifter can be eliminated.

I would be tempted to "vent" the top of the sight-glass into a fitting in the PTO cover above.

That probably won't be necessary in a real-world situation, as the motion of driving will keep it shook-up enough to over-ride any vacuum concerns.

Good looking invention.

kendaliaguy

i added the elbow to my getrag--worked great! I did find out that you have to add fluid VERY SLOWLY, or it will pour everywhere fast.

G1625S

I have a sending unit threaded right into the fill hole. I overfill by removing the shift lever. 5 quarts in about 15 seconds, though the shifter takes about 10 minutes....

In related news, my tranny runs smokin hot, always has. My theory is that the fill hole points right towards the mainshaft and that the high shearing forces going on between the gears may elevate the temps a bit since the gears are slinging that hot oil toward the sending unit. Just a theory. With a GCVW of about 12k I hit 260 degreesF on my isspro gauge!

BearKiller

After studying this over again, and knowing what we did on the son's W-250, I am going to re-do his with the best of both.

I will orient the 90* bend lower and mark "add-a-quart" at the four quart level, and "FULL" at the five quart level.

At the top end of the sight-tube, I will add a 1/2" hose-barb, with clear-braided hose proceeding to up under the hood, behind the washer-jug, with a capped end.

Once all this is installed, I can peek under and read the fluid level.

I can add/replace the fluid, standing on my hind legs, by pouring it through the clear hose.

BearKiller

As for the accuracy of the temperature-probe location, quick spikes in temperature will mostly go un-noticed, due to the operating nature of sending units and cables, and one would have to always be staring at the gauge, not a good thing when one's eyes should be on the road.

The way the fluid gets churned and tossed around, the constant temperature of the transmission should be monitored close enough with the sender in the pictured location.

Constant high temperature is what we want to avoid.

G1625S

Boy, I've got lots of constant high temps On an 85* day, 30 minutes at 75 will have me knocking on 200. 235-240 is the hottest it's ever been untill a couple weeks ago. I was towing my car trailer (7k gross, 26', 2k pounds) and a Farmall Cub with some attachments/wheel weights....MAYBE 3000 pounds on the outside. I was cooking right along in 5th with rain and temps in the 50's. Ran about 70 the whole way and it jsut settled in at about 255-260. I built the tranny myself about 65k ago. When I had it apart 10k ago, the input shaft bearing looked a BIT pitted, but not too awful. I reset the preload and let it fly. I'm going to throw bearings at it when I get a clutch this spring and try not to work it too hard in the meantime. I'd really like an overdrive/splitter to tow in 4th but haven't found one that will apply on coast so I could use an exhaust brake...I've heard they all freewheel. Ugh, I'm rambling now, sorry for the hijack!

wannadiesel

Build a poorboy cooler for that thing, Greg. Junkyard A/C condenser w/a fan, the most expensive thing will be the circulating pump.

Running 260 is not a problem for a synthetic lube. What fluid are you running? I have read that the friction modifying characteristics of the transmission oils cause higher operating temps. Motor oil runs cooler and should be used in a hard working trans.

BearKiller

Un-confuse me, please.

For a heavy towing application:

Synthetic 5W-30 engine oil runs coolest, right ??

But, 5W-30 plain old timey oil will run cooler than the fancy transmission lubes, right ??

What, exactly, do you mean by "motor oil" ??