BearKiller

I would like to hear from anyone that is running a homemade water-injection system on a non-intercooled truck.

My truck runs like a scalded dog.

I can pull away from most of the sports-car pricky types on any hill; but, my pyrometer shoots through the roof and I have to back off.

Do these homemade systems really do the thing??

Thanks.

tboling

I made one like some guys run on a field stock pulling tractor. It's cheap but after a while it will take out the seal and front turbo bearing. Thats the down side not so cheap when u look at it that way. But I had mine feeding a spray of water in the front of the turbo leting the turbo pull in the cool water/air. U don't need a high pressure pump this way old school none the less. I belive a u could make a timed set up your self with relays and high pressure pump Just getting it set would be the big thing.

jrussell

This is why everyone STRONGLY suggests putting the injection post-turbo. A turbo is not made to have water droplets hitting it at 140,000 RPM.

Begle1

I've never heard of anybody suggesting that...

What's the point of cooling down the exhaust after it's been through the turbo and head? The idea behind water injection is to not melt your pistons or turbocharger; after the turbocharger all I have is pipe, and I don't really care if I melt that. (Although I don't think I could if I really tried hard.)

I think that you could find the pumps, nozzles, reservoirs and lines for a lot cheaper than anybody will sell them to you for, but when it comes to the electronic control modules I think I would break down and buy one. I'm not good enough at electronics to make my own flow-boost function and turn it into an adjustable circuit. (I could do the math, but not the soldering.)

BearKiller

I want a system that I control from a button, either on the gear-pole, or on the dash.

Something that I can bring into play, when I start up a long hill, and cut off, when I reach the top.

What kind of pump/pressure am I going to need to over-ride the boost??

Thanks.

BearKiller

Post-turbo meaning between the turbo and the intake, not after the exhaust.

There is pre-turbo and post-turbo intake as well as exhaust.

Think about it.

jrussell

LOL

What he said.

wannadiesel

The Snow kit uses a Shurflo sprayer pump, get the biggest 12 volt one Northern sells.

Do you really want 40 HP at the flick of a switch? The truck is really gonna lurch when the spray cuts in, that's why I recommend the progressive controllers for tow rigs. On a play truck it's a matter of personal preference, but I think smooth throttle response is important on a working truck.

Begle1

Well, why didn't you just say so?


Wannadiesel, do you know the kind of function that the pro systems use to control boost-water parameters? Is water flow a linear, power or logarithm of boost?

i.e. Water Flow=Boost, or Water Flow=Boost^2, or Water Flow=log(Boost)?

Or is it even a function of boost? I guess it could eaisily be made a function of EGT's, fuel pressure or throttle position...

If I what the function looks like, I have electrician buddies that might be able to solder something together for a few dollars apiece.

JimmieD

I'm planning on building a homestyle injector also. I wonder if a guy could use the Sure-Flo pump and plumb the output much larger, like say 1" or better, or even an accumulator type cannister, with its outlet leading to injector body? Thinking it would take a second or two for the pump to reach full pressure so the injection would be slower/smoother to start. I guess you'd need an anti-backflow valve in that line so turbo boost didn't rip the Sure-Flo and piping apart. Haven't finished head scratching on that yet...

Might also use an air or hydraulic ram opening a ball valve with a long enough arc in the bell crank linkage to slow the opening? That or a stepper motor to progressively open ball valve, but that would require some electronics for sure.

Seems like you could use a Sure-flo pump after the reservoir, with an anti-backflow valve before pump, and take advantage of the demand switch function of the pump. Keep the system pressurized and ready to squirt the injection, and only the opening of valve being delayed to smooth the transition?

Just some thoughts, and when I come up with a winning combination I'll post. Probabl best to just spring for a ready made controller and be done with it, but you know how that "Yep, made it myself..." thing is

Whatever linkage/actuator I come up with will probably be duplicated to operate the home made exhaust brake too.....

wannadiesel

Snow says that the Stage 1 and 2 controllers start at 50% duty cycle at the "injection start" pressure setting and ramp up linearly to 100% duty cycle at the the "max delivery" pressure setting. If you set "max" below "start" you have an expensive pressure switch.

It needs to be a function of boost, since that's the most accurate way to figure fuel delivery. You need to have adequate fuel or the water/meth will put out the fire.

BearKiller

How much water are we talking??

For instance, from the bottom of MontEagle to the top, how much water will be consumed??

Are we talking a few molecules, or gallons??

Thanks.

wannadiesel

I don't know the grade you're talking about, but a long hard pull could easily consume several gallons.

I can blow through the 1/2 gallon tank in 3 or 4 50 - 90 mph runs in 5th gear.

JimmieD

Sounds like this would not be the first mods a guy should do? Get the basic fuel issues and tweaks up to speed first, then use water/meth to help control the effects and fine tune? I know it's a balancing act but because of the necessity of adequate fuel we need to get close to where we want to be on fuel mods first then work to get the EGT's back to manageable. I guess I'm trying to say that the water meth may not be so much of the direct cause of increased performance, but is more a way to manage the performance increase gotten from other fuel mods, right? That would seem to be the case at a 25% meth injection as it's not a major power adder at that amount.

wannadiesel

Actually water/meth seems give better HP results on trucks that aren't overfueled already. Most of the guys who have added it to heavily fueled trucks have done so with the goal of dropping EGT, with the extra HP just being a bonus.