I resealed my IP, but cant get it started.
I'm starting to think I may have put it back together wrong.

Here's what I did:

Set engine to TDC, pushed in cam gear lock pin.
Made timing mark on pump mounting flange.
Locked pump shaft by removing washer.
Removed pump.

Replaced "external" seals (KSB, control valve, and high pressure head)
I did NOT get into the main body of the pump.

At first attempt to put the head back on, it seemed off center and wouldn't go on easy. I pulled it up and noticed the ball was not in the hole on the collar. After noticing that, it went right back together.

Replaced pump. Went together fine.
Had a tough time bleeding it because my lift pump priming lever didn't work at all. I had a spare lift pump on hand, so I swapped it out.
Now I was able to build pressure, first to the bleed screw, then eventually the pump filled.
Lots of cranking and pumping later, I have fuel at the injectors, but it just dribbles out. Not spurting out like it should.

Ive been at it for hours, opening and closing injectors, pumping the prime lever, cranking and cranking. Im wearing down my battery, but not getting the starter hot.

I really dont want to take the pump off again, and I cant think of anything I may have done wrong.

Is there any way to mess up the head assembly?

I got the ball into the hole, and there is a groove on the back of the plunger that engages with the cam plate. I don't think it will even go back together if you don't get those aligned.
The pump shaft was locked the entire time.

How can I verify whether there is still just air trapped in the system, or a pump head/timing issue?

 

If you haven't knocked the timing gear...then just line up the keyway on the IP to match that on the gear and install. That is all the timing these pumps need.

When you lifted the head off to get the ball to set in the collar...did the springs happen to fall off their seats? Also there is a small thrust washer between the cam plate, and the piston head (Correct term?) Anyway if you lifted that piston head and that washer fell out then things can go south from there.

I got that thrust washer stuck out of the seat, and between the cam plate and piston head....when it torqued up and shattered it ended up cracking the piston head. I had to get another pump to remedy this.

But the lack of fuel pressure at the injector makes me think that maybe that darn collar came loose, even after you tried so hard to get it to line up and seat. I had a IP do this once too...and it just dribbled out of the injector lines.

You can pull the top of the pump off and look down inside. You might have to suck out a bit of fuel to see it. But you should be able to see if it's hooked up or not.

 

Neither the timing gear, nor the pump shaft moved during the replacement....
thinking about it now, even if the timing was off a tooth, I should still see pressure spurting fuel out the injector lines, right?
I know it wouldnt run correctly, but it should still build pressure.

As for the pump head:

I removed the plunger and springs because the washer came loose when I pulled the head off.
I used a dab of grease to hold it in the the recess for assembly, so Im pretty sure that stayed put.
Like you experienced, if it fell out it probably wouldnt have gone back together so easily.

Are you suggesting this can be done with the pump installed on the truck?
I ask because if I take the pump out, I will just empty the fuel before opening it up.

With the amount of starter cranking Ive done, Im starting to think the collar came loose. My truck was always easy to start, and the few times I had to bleed the lines because of fuel gelling, it never took this long.

 

These VE pumped engines can be a PIA to get running once the pump is drained, and if you were off a tooth (or more) you'd still get full pressure at the injectors, but timing would be advanced/retarded. If the fuel is dribbling at the injectors I'd tend to think that there is either a massive amount of air in the system still or something isn't quite right inside the pump itself. Fuel should be hitting the underside of the hood with the injector lines loose.

I've been there and done that with attempting an IP reseal and it cost me a new pump. I hope you get it figured out without having to buy a new pump. If it comes down to needing a new pump call Rob at Max Torque Diesel in Colorado. He'll take good care of you. Good luck.

 

As for getting the collar back on the ball while it's still in the truck....I can't recall for sure? I do remember pulling a top off an IP that would not start, and finding the collar loose. But if I pulled the IP and fixed it out of the truck, OR managed to get things re-aligned while still on the motor....I can't Honestly recall.

Regardless it's easier to pull the top off the IP and visually check to see if this is your problem. If it's OK then you can move onto other things....if it's off at least you can now justify pulling it.

 

Well I got the truck running.
I pulled the pump again, and removed the head.

The ball & collar were assembled properly the first time.

I put everything back together, and it behaved exactly as I expected it to:
A few pumps on the primer lever, a few cranks of the starter, sputter, crank, sputter, crank, VROOOM!
Sounds just like it did before.

I have no idea what was wrong the first time around.
The only thing I noticed was that when I took the head off this time, the springs were laying down....I dont know if they fell taking it apart this time (didnt hear them fall) or if they fell down during previous assembly. I dont think they were laying down the first time though, certainly something would have broken if they were bouncing around loose in there.

 

Glad you got it going!!

With the other post you asked about the end play on the main shaft. Now that it's running, check it again. Bet you have zero end play. I would guess that the springs were loose the first time round...thus causing the end play issue.