firstjen

So I think the cable snapped or something like that, either way the hood won't open. Anyone know how to go about getting it open without the cable?

TIA, Blake

NJTman

Pretty sure you're gonna have to remove the driver side grille, but by sure how you'd get to the latch , cable because it's blocked by the grille surround.

I have installed a second cable just in case this happens.

Shelby/Dakota

How do you have the secondary cable ran?

NJTman

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...elease-187435/

edwinsmith

My cable was cut by a battery thief when the truck was apart getting body work done. I still can't figure out why they had to cut it since the doors of the truck were unlocked. The truck was in a locked shop. I got a replacement from a salvage yard and installed it before the rest of the truck was put back together.

What a horrible thought though having the cable break without a backup. I'll need to look into that.

Edwin

NJTman

Oliver has a bunch...

N. Besonderes

I've done this too. The pull-cable is behind the driver side headlamp bezel.
What kind of world would this be without Jim Lane?
Since I can get into my engine bay by just removing the headlamp bezel with a cross head screwdriver, I want to hook up a switch under the hood that will unlock the doors in the event of a lockout.

That's not an answer to the OP's question. I'll be working on my rig tomorrow (dropping and cleaning fuel tank) so I'll do some poking around and see if I can't come up with a suggestion that doesn't involve a cut-off wheel.

-Niemand

oliver foster

I have seen a guy use a 3 or 4 inch hole saw to get his hood open in this scenario before, but he was a little hot headed....It was also 15 years ago when they where not as much of a collector item.

N. Besonderes

I have an option that will only work if you don't have a hood ornament but would like to get one.
If you pull a tape measure from the rear edge of the hood, down the center and make a mark at 40-11/16" and drill a 5/8" hole there, that should put the hole right over where the end of the cable is attached to the hood latch, and you could try pulling it toward the battery with a flat head screwdriver.
That's also the spot where you would need a 5/8" hole for the bobbely-head spring if you were mounting an original type ram's head. I doubt that the knock-off reproduction types that you can get from amazon need that center hole since they're a one piece unit, but at least it would cover it up.

-Niemand

BlueW250

I have also installed the secondary cable but really don't want to be forced to use it. It takes quite a bit of pull on the little black toggle in the cab to release the hood latch and pulling it off or breaking it always comes to mind. Is there a way to lubricate the cable?

Thank you,
BlueW250

thrashingcows

Remove the cable and curl it up and place it in a bucket of used engine oil for a few days....the oil "should" work it's way into the housing and provide plenty of lubrication for years. I did this with my hood pull cable, and I also do it on e-brake cables.

BHD

I bought a parts truck from a salvage yard for one of my projects. The hood was open when i bought the truck and closed it for transport. When I got home I pulled the release and the hood didn't pop open. I believe I ended up cutting the handle off in cab to put a pair of vise grips on the cable itself, then I had my neighbor push down on the hood while I pulled on the vise grips and I got it open. If the cable is torn under the hood at the latch it should come out in your hand. If not it just might be stubborn, like my donor's was.