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headlights acting crazy

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Old Feb 22, 2007 | 08:00 PM
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headlights acting crazy

The other day I turned on the lights and only the actual headlights came on, no dash lights, tail lights, clearance lights, etc. I wiggled and fidgeted with the switch and at just the right position it all worked.

Ok, so it's gotta be the switch right??? Bought a new switch, swapped it, same results.

Read in Service manual that headlight functions also run through the wiper switch. I'm figuring just the bright/dim part, but who knows. It's got problems any way, wipers only work on low speed and don't return when turned off.

Got a new wiper switch, tore the dash apart to get it changed, but don't have the torx driver that I need. They're tamper proof screws... So hopefully that'll fix it when I get it changed.

Other baffling find though, was the ignition connection. The wires on the flat plug have all the insulation pulled back, just bare wires. They were all laying over each other, but thankfully not touching. Anyone else ran into any of these problems??? Any help would be greatly appreciated.


I did a search on here and came up with this post.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ght=headlights

He had the exact headlight problems, but never said what fixed it.

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Old Feb 22, 2007 | 09:07 PM
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I helped a friend with simalar probs, We changed headlight as you did with the same results, Then replaced the wiper switch whiched fixed it,,,did you check plug on headlight switch ? they have a tendacy to burn a bit. As far as bare wires go I havent ran into that but fix it.
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 06:52 PM
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That's scary looking! I had to replace my ignition switch a few months ago and the wiring looked OK.

Most auto parts stores carry the tamper proof torx bits. Harbor Freight also sells them if you've one nearby.

Check the cigarette lighter receptacle for a dime.
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 07:09 PM
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I know NAPA sells the replacement connector for the headlight switch. They probably sell that connector as well. If they don't I am pretty sure Lawson Products does. Of course there is always a can of Liquid Electrical Tape at most trailer parts outlets.
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 08:28 PM
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Wipers could be the delay relay located behind the ashtray below the radio.
Could be green or black in color, mine says right on it wiper delay.
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Old Feb 24, 2007 | 09:55 PM
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Ok, replaced the wiper switch, had no effect on the lights, don't know about if it helped the wipers yet though. I need to fix the bare wires before I check the wiper system.

I pulled the headlight switch again, and this time looked at the connector. It is melted all to hell. I'll get a new connector tomorrow, but was wondering how it's replaced. Do I just cut the wires and stick them into the new connector or what? There isn't much slack in the harness, so it should be no fun.
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Old Feb 24, 2007 | 10:22 PM
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ditto on the burnt switch harness block terminal. Thanks Boatnik for the Napa info. I'd assumed I'd need to change the whole harness and I druther be shot than spend that much time standing on my head under there. I went ahead and rewired the headlight power side with switch and two relays, one for hi and one for lo. Works well and somehow the dimmer on the lever still works, so I'm laffing at this point on the headlights front. Still would like the original setup to work so will do that. Anyhow,440_D50, sorry for the digression but I'll go along with the notion that swapping your multi-function lever switch might do the trick. Do the block terminal first tho 'cuz it's bound to be cheaper and might be the root of the problem.
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Old Feb 24, 2007 | 10:31 PM
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Originally Posted by 440_D50
Ok, replaced the wiper switch, had no effect on the lights, don't know about if it helped the wipers yet though. I need to fix the bare wires before I check the wiper system.

I pulled the headlight switch again, and this time looked at the connector. It is melted all to hell. I'll get a new connector tomorrow, but was wondering how it's replaced. Do I just cut the wires and stick them into the new connector or what? There isn't much slack in the harness, so it should be no fun.
The new connector should come with the terminals installed into the connector body, and about 6 inches of wire. Cut the old connector wires about the same distance back, and splice on the new wires with solder and shrink tubes. I've replaced dozens, and it's not much fun to get in there.
On the 1st. gen trucks, Dodge had a wiring overlay kit available to power the trailer taillight circuit through a relay to prevent overheating the new switch. I would strongly recommend either getting this kit, or wiring a relay into the circuit yourself.
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Old Feb 25, 2007 | 12:49 PM
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Ok, My NAPA guy is an idiot and wouldn't help his own grandmother find this connector. Does anyone have a good part number for this connector. Then I can slap his edit.
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Old Feb 25, 2007 | 03:53 PM
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Give me until tomorrow and I will call NAPA in Smithfield. These guys are great. I believe they would change your oil if you asked. Seriously they go out of their way to help. If its in the book, I'll reply tomorrow.
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Old Feb 25, 2007 | 04:10 PM
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Thank you very much. I might have to check the yard Friday, I just hate being without my truck for that much longer... At least I still get to drive my stock 92...
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Old Feb 26, 2007 | 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by 440_D50
Thank you very much. I might have to check the yard Friday, I just hate being without my truck for that much longer... At least I still get to drive my stock 92...
Bad News! According to the owner of the place I do business, that part is NOT available thru NAPA.
I asked him about what to do about the lack of service at your NAPA and he suggested that you go to the NAPA website and get the number to call and lodge a complaint.

As for the part, if it isn't available thru the dealer, you might try a salvedge yard. The same ignition switch runs from 1987 thru 1993 all Dodge pickups. So most likely the connector is the same for those years. Sorry I couldn't help.
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Old Feb 26, 2007 | 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Boatnik
Bad News! According to the owner of the place I do business, that part is NOT available thru NAPA.
I asked him about what to do about the lack of service at your NAPA and he suggested that you go to the NAPA website and get the number to call and lodge a complaint.

As for the part, if it isn't available thru the dealer, you might try a salvedge yard. The same ignition switch runs from 1987 thru 1993 all Dodge pickups. So most likely the connector is the same for those years. Sorry I couldn't help.


Thanks. Did you ask those guys about the ignition connector, or the headlight switch connector??? I need the headlight switch connector, it's melted. I just liquid electrical taped the ignition bare wires. Thanks again.
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Old Feb 26, 2007 | 08:52 PM
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From: MyTrailer, Canada
Headlight Harness Connector

[QUOTE=Boatnik;1373925]I know NAPA sells the replacement connector for the headlight switch. /QUOTE]
Hey Boatnik, ..any chance you could run down a NAPA p/n for that connector and post it? My local NAPA (Canada) couldn't find it and said his parts info isn't identical to that in USA, but a p/n might work in his system. Mine fried like some of the others so I've "farmers-fixed" the circuit with toggle switch and relays. Sure would like to get back to stock setup and use a real switch again
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Old Feb 27, 2007 | 07:40 PM
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From: Kalispell, MT
[QUOTE=ppiggppenn;1379337]
Originally Posted by Boatnik
I know NAPA sells the replacement connector for the headlight switch. /QUOTE]
Hey Boatnik, ..any chance you could run down a NAPA p/n for that connector and post it? My local NAPA (Canada) couldn't find it and said his parts info isn't identical to that in USA, but a p/n might work in his system. Mine fried like some of the others so I've "farmers-fixed" the circuit with toggle switch and relays. Sure would like to get back to stock setup and use a real switch again


Yep, I'm waiting for the same part number. I really hope he can find it. The dealership sells it, but you have the get the switch and connector for 50 bucks. I'm probably just gonna find a good junkyard one. They have the same connector/switch setup from the late 70's on up. That's cars, trucks, everything.
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