Headgasket Update!
#1
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Headgasket Update!
Ok guys this is just a little update of my recent issues that I have been having with the headgasket on my 93. So a few of you who chimmed in on my last posts know that it started with a miss because my headgasket blew a dime size hole between cylinders 1 and 2. I took the head to a well known and highly recommened machine shop in my neck of the woods where they shaved .016 off of it and replaced all the valves and seals. I got a standard thickness gasket and top end seal kit from puredieselpower.com. The kit came with a gage to measure my headbolts which all look fine so i reused them. I put it back together and it leaked from the get-go. So I drove it for about 1500 miles thinking that it might seal which I was wrong and then it finally blew and started to overheat. I pulled it back into my shop and took the head off again and went to cummins central power in kansas city where I got a .010 thicker gasket along with new head bolts got back to the shop and put it all back together, torqed everything down, started it, and no leak! Very relieved at this point!!! Drove it about another 500 miles and she blew again! FML
Now im thinking my problem is in the block but im feeling like this engine may never be right no matter how much money I dump into it. So my B plan is that i have another engine that i pulled from my TimberJack 450C Log Skidder due to the IP getting weak. I know I know "why would i pull the motor if it was only the IP" well i had at the time another parts machine that had a 12 valve w/ only 500hrs on it. It was my cheaper/quickest route to gettin back in the woods. But i was thinking i could take this other motor swap my pump and maybe injectors if possible (it was non i/c) so im not sure there and i was wondering if anyone knows or knows where to find the info on the differences between the industial 12v's they put in equipment and the ones they put in our pickups, if there is any. I may just have to get the numbers off each and give Cummins a call. thanks for all input and sorry for the book lol
Now im thinking my problem is in the block but im feeling like this engine may never be right no matter how much money I dump into it. So my B plan is that i have another engine that i pulled from my TimberJack 450C Log Skidder due to the IP getting weak. I know I know "why would i pull the motor if it was only the IP" well i had at the time another parts machine that had a 12 valve w/ only 500hrs on it. It was my cheaper/quickest route to gettin back in the woods. But i was thinking i could take this other motor swap my pump and maybe injectors if possible (it was non i/c) so im not sure there and i was wondering if anyone knows or knows where to find the info on the differences between the industial 12v's they put in equipment and the ones they put in our pickups, if there is any. I may just have to get the numbers off each and give Cummins a call. thanks for all input and sorry for the book lol
#2
As far as I know the only differences are the pumps, gear housings and rear housing. Internals and block/heads are the same. They do make 7mm injector washers.
Did you at least throw a straight edge on the block?
Don't take my word as the gospel, just stuff I think I remember from reading.
Did you at least throw a straight edge on the block?
Don't take my word as the gospel, just stuff I think I remember from reading.
#3
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yeah i put a straight edge on it but really couldnt tell much. i got the motor out of the truck so i might take it to the machine shop and have them check it out. But when i looked at the 2 pump they are identical from the outside, but ill check on that through cummins maybe tomorrow.
#4
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I remember reading somewhere that the industrial motors might have a different cam, and piston dish pattern, and different injectors to correspond with the pistons. As 93Flatbed says...this is going off memory.
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I wonder if my factory injecters would work? I know this motor was broke in pulling its butt off everyday so i am very curious of how it will work out in my pickup.
#6
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Here is the procedure for changing the head gasket, says how to check the block for flatness, .003 inches from side to side and end to end.
http://www.sbmar.com/Maintenance/PDF...orque-Data.pdf
http://www.sbmar.com/Maintenance/PDF...orque-Data.pdf
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#9
I guess I'll put my money on the block being down around that spot. That's a tough fix having to pull it down to deck the block. Since you have a spare maybe you can rebuild it into whatcha want as money and time come available. Good luck with it!
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