KRB

Outside looked fine. It was plugged up on the inside, unbeknownst to me.

bigragu

Did you end up replacing the radiator or just have the factory radiator cleaned out? That's weird, how a radiator could plug up on the inside like that. It makes me feel better, then, for filtering my coolant, bypass style.

edwinsmith

Radiators plugged up on the inside was very common before anti-freeze with corrosion inhibitors was in widespread use. Plain water will carry rust from the engine and it likes to collect in the small tubes of the radiator.

Radiators used to be repairable for the most part but not so much anymore. Cheaper to just replace them.

torquefan

[QUOTE=KRB;3336922]I think that's quite possible.

MAC702

While that makes sense, I can tell you that before I knew what was causing it, I cleaned my engine and ran it in Park for several hours, including at holding some higher RPMs, trying to see if I could find the leak.

Only after driving it around, experiencing normal load (and boost) conditions, did it finally leak again so I could find it.

KRB

At the time we had a nice old timey radiator shop over in Lexington. He cleaned it out, pressure tested it, deemed it worthy and painted it for $60.

I drained and replaced the coolant at 90K when I got it and filled with 50/50 low silica stuff. I wasn't very diligent about changing it after that...

KRB

Anybody tried "retorquing the factory head bolts?

About 50,000 miles ago I replaced the head gasket due to a leak on the passenger side at #5/6. Lately I've been missing some coolant and finally see where it's seeping at the more common spot above the thermostat. Bugger!!! With only 50K I don't really need to replace anything else associated with the R&R so I was wondering if I could "cheat" and just retorque. Seems like I remember discussions pro & con but not searched much yet. Maybe what I'm remembering is replacing the bolts with studs while the head is still attached???

This discussion was six years ago, any new thoughts or experiences?

Cheers,

KRB

After some searching and reading old threads, it seems like there is no consensus on retorquing. Some say no, stick to the FSM and some retorque with no issues (while several have snapped bolts). Basically comes down to the type of metal, intended use and time/duty cycles. Science vs experience with some luck added.

This one I found particularly interesting: head retorque??? - Page 2 - Dodge Diesel - Diesel Truck Resource Forums

I used all genuine Cummins parts about 10 years ago when I did mine. For the life of me I can't remember if I used new bolts but I think not as I remember measuring mine with the scale provided. Truck is still drivable as it barely weeps so far. Gives me time to think and plan...

edwinsmith

You could try some good old fashioned radiator stop leak.

KRB

I'd really only do that as a short term fix on a motor/system I was going to redo or junk.

The XJ I have now hadn't run for a couple years. They parked it on the farm with no brakes and leaking coolant among other things. After replacing the radiator and putting 40K on it I've flushed it for the 3rd time now and still getting brown goop in the over flow. No telling how many quarts of that stuff they dumped in there...

Having said that, my '90 corolla wagon blew a head gasket a couple years ago. It's rusted out badly, has a cracked windshield now and no telling how many miles on the 3rd motor I put in it from a junk yard way back when. I decided to try some sealer since I really had nothing to lose. I forget what I got (still have the green bottle sitting in the back cargo area) but it's what the old farmers around here use on tractors and such. It reacts with heat and O2 to harden I think? Anyway, that stuff worked great and I drove it for a couple years like that waiting for it to rust in two but August a year ago the timing belt broke. Wasn't expecting that as it wasn't enough miles yet but I guess the years got to it first. It's sitting here by the barn as I can't bear to get rid of it. I sure miss driving that thing...

edwinsmith

There was a product called Barrs Leaks or something like that. It was the brown goop. A better product IMHO is Alum-A-Seal which is a finely ground aluminum powder with some special properties which may work better on a head Gasket. YMMV.

Edwin