In light of the tranny issues this evening, I still feel good about the truck and REALLY good about the gauges I scored today!

I was going to call Geno's this afternoon to get them underway, when I see a for sale post on the local 4x4 board. Guy had a NIB set of Isspro black face/white markings & illumination gauges and a triple A-pillar mount for his '99 (will go to fleabay if I can't make it work)...

Got them all (35% off ), still in the box/packaging from Geno's! Hopefully, the tranny's fine (= I'm a ) and there will be time next week, if not THIS week to begin the install.

While I'm decent mechanically and not really scared by drilling/tapping the manifold for the pyro, I'd STILL appreciate any other tips/tricks!

- Grease the bit & tap to keep the chips out, & use a magnet afterwards just to be sure it's clean? Seems I'd also heard about pressurizing the manifold (via the exhaust pipe?) to keep any errant chips blown OUT of the manifold... but could be wrong?
- Best routing from firewall to A-pillar? Dash removal needed? If so, how (it wasn't obvious during previous looks)?
- Best area to run the wires/capillaries thru the firewall? A friend suggested in the same grommet as the factory harness... good or bad?
- Weld a bung in the tranny pan or catch one the cooler lines? I already have my own opinion, but what's the concensus here regarding which line? Outlet (to cooler) or inlet (from cooler)?

Thanks again guys!

 

Sounds like a pretty sweet score great job

 

Dave, ever make the 'Jeepster Jam"?

 

EVERY year since it began in '01... maybe we've met there? Going to be held in Clinton, TN this year if you can make it!

 

I sent PM.

 

OK, the gauges are here!

I was a bit bummed as the boost gauge is 0-30# and not 0-60#... OTOH, I plan on calling Geno's Monday to see if they'd be nice & swap it out for me (same price online) and ask about all the "extra" junk (a "bolt" thats gun drilled, an AL adapter for the temp sender to clamp on the cooler line, & the 3rd Gen A-pillar mount... ain't no way it'll work without major tweaking)

 

You can sell the boost bolt to an overvalver.

 

Translation please?

Guessing it's for the 3rd Gens? If so, what's it used for?

 

24 quieter than anything valver. At least, against our 12 valves

 

Just good natured ribbing on the Dodge forums. We call the 24 valve guys "overvalved" and they call us "undervalved" (or "faster" ).

A boost bolt replaces one of the intake horn bolts so you don't have to drill the intake horn. We don't need one because Cummins was nice enough to provide us with an 1/8" NPT port in the intake manifold area of the head.

 

Is that near the intake horn?

 

Yep. Just below it in the side of the head there's an allen head pipe plug. Here's what it looks like with a boost gauge hooked up.

 

Well, the fine folks at Geno's agreed to swap out the 0-30# for a 0-60#, BUT since I *might* actually get some time to start on the install this week, decided to go ahead and purchase the 0-60# outright. This gets me on record for the warranty and should get it to me several days quicker (than return 0-30#, document, lag, and return shipping on the new).

So tell me again why I "really needed" a 0-60#?

Recommendations on *WHERE* to sale the NIB 0-30#, RLT bolt, and 3rd Gen A-pillar triple? Fleabay?

 

Because it's easy to peg a 30 with nothing more than pump tweaks and a smaller turbine housing. If it's pegged you have no idea where you are.

DTR has a classified section (link up at the top of every page). Put them in the "3rd gen Performance and Accessories" section for a good price and I'm sure you find a buyer.