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1st Gen. Ram - All TopicsDiscussion for all Dodge Rams prior to 1994. This includes engine, drivetrain and non-drivetrain discussions. Anything prior to 1994 should go in here.
Sorry if this has been hashed before...i have seen lots of different information and need some clarification. I need to order a set of gauges and have decided on autometer z series. Fuel pressure, pyro, and boost.
Fuel pressure: How high of range do I need, and mechanical or stepper motor on fuel pressure? Does the mechanical gauge have fuel all the way to the back of the gauge? I dont want fuel in my cab...
Have seen people put the fuel pressure gauge at the filter. Is that the correct place?
Pyro: Z series comes as stepper motor type. 1600 degrees should be plenty as I believe I'll have other issues to be concerned with if i reach higher egts.
Boost: Mechanical gauge but what range? Am in the process of putting a hx35 swap together but not on yet. What max boost? Z series has 35, 60 and 100 psi. I don't believe I need over 60 but not sure about the 35psi gauge.
I have the Autometer "Z" series in my truck. I have the Diesel Tach, Boost and Pyro. The tach is the model 2888 and goes to 5000 rpm. The Boost goes to 35 psi and the Pyro goes to 1600 deg. The Tach and the Pyro are stepper motor types while the boost is mechanical.
NO. You don't want fuel coming into the cab. I assume the Autometer Fuel gauge has remote sensing but you should make sure. A good place to take off the Fuel Pressure is the Banjo fitting AFTER the fuel filter that is the line going to the VE injection pump. You can get a snubber fitting from Geno's to replace the bolt and bleeder in the Banjo which has a 1/8 inch pipe fitting in it to connect to the sensor. If autometer's sensor has a 1/8 pipe fitting which screws into the snubber alls the better. You shouldn't exceed 15 psi going into the VE inj. pump as pressure over that can force the front seal out of the VE and fill your crankcase full of diesel fuel. Don't ask me how I know this.
A note of caution, I got my gauges about 12 years ago and they were hardly used since the truck was sitting in a garage. The Pyro now has an intermittant connection inside the gauge and the Tach sticks and only reads if you thump on it. I like the looks of the gauges though and I want them all to match so I asked the wife to get me a new Autometer 2888 as a replacement for the tach and I'll eventually replace the pyro with the same make and model. The mechanical Boost gauge still works fine. My hope is that either the gauges were mistreated in the years the truck was out of my control or that IF they were defective that Autometer has worked out the bugs in the years since. YMMV
With my modest mods and fairly normal driving, I see 6-9psi on the fuel gauge, 600-800* on the pyro and the teens on boost.
I think aluminum melts at 1,300* so you need to monitor up to that anyway. I've never dyno'ed my truck or even romped it much but the most boost I've ever see is 24. Not sure what psi before the head starts separating etc.
With my modest mods and fairly normal driving, I see 6-9psi on the fuel gauge, 600-800* on the pyro and the teens on boost.
I think aluminum melts at 1,300* so you need to monitor up to that anyway. I've never dyno'ed my truck or even romped it much but the most boost I've ever see is 24. Not sure what psi before the head starts separating etc.
While the compressor wheel is made of an aluminum alloy the turbine wheel in the exhaust is made of an alloy of nickle/titanium/and other metals to withstand the higher temps. I don't know what the limit is but I would consider 1300 degrees to be close to it. This is usually measured in the exhaust manifold just before the turbo and not after. Temps could be a bit higher directly at the wheel however because of compression as the gas flows through the nozzle and onto the turbine. I tried to find precise numbers but Google let me down. Others may have better info.
I once bought a used turbo which had the turbine partly melted. It was interesting and there are pics in my gallery on this site.
Fuel gauge: replace banjo bolt with snubber bolt from genos
Pyro: exhaust manifold but not center as the manifold has a divider directly in the middle? Front side or rear?
Boost: is there a port somewhere to pull out or do I need to drill a hole somewhere? I'm guessing location isn't too particular on this one...
There IS a port. IIRC it is in the side of the intake manifold about the middle of and directly below the grid heaters. There should be a 1/8 inch pipe plug. If I remember tomorrow I'll snap a pic of where mine is and post it here.
I have the Autometer "Z" series in my truck. I have the Diesel Tach, Boost and Pyro. The tach is the model 2888 and goes to 5000 rpm. The Boost goes to 35 psi and the Pyro goes to 1600 deg. The Tach and the Pyro are stepper motor types while the boost is mechanical.
NO. You don't want fuel coming into the cab. I assume the Autometer Fuel gauge has remote sensing but you should make sure. A good place to take off the Fuel Pressure is the Banjo fitting AFTER the fuel filter that is the line going to the VE injection pump. You can get a snubber fitting from Geno's to replace the bolt and bleeder in the Banjo which has a 1/8 inch pipe fitting in it to connect to the sensor. If autometer's sensor has a 1/8 pipe fitting which screws into the snubber alls the better. You shouldn't exceed 15 psi going into the VE inj. pump as pressure over that can force the front seal out of the VE and fill your crankcase full of diesel fuel. Don't ask me how I know this.
A note of caution, I got my gauges about 12 years ago and they were hardly used since the truck was sitting in a garage. The Pyro now has an intermittant connection inside the gauge and the Tach sticks and only reads if you thump on it. I like the looks of the gauges though and I want them all to match so I asked the wife to get me a new Autometer 2888 as a replacement for the tach and I'll eventually replace the pyro with the same make and model. The mechanical Boost gauge still works fine. My hope is that either the gauges were mistreated in the years the truck was out of my control or that IF they were defective that Autometer has worked out the bugs in the years since. YMMV
Edwin
So the fitting to replace for the fuel pressure is the bolt WITH the bleeder in the head? I ordered a snubber bolt from genos should be here in a few days.
So the fitting to replace for the fuel pressure is the bolt WITH the bleeder in the head? I ordered a snubber bolt from genos should be here in a few days.
06-21-2019, 05:11 PM
