Well I want to play with my VE pump some more and I have yet to touch the full power screw. What is the best way to break the tack weld? I'm guessing its fairly weak, so I just break it loose with a wrench? After the tack is broken I guess I'll start with 1 turn and see how I like it. How much more smoke can I expect from playing with this screw? I have yet to adjust my starwheel if that helps any.

Also since I have adjusted my pump, my idle is a little higher than stock and I want to lower it a bit. From what I understand, there are 2 idle screws, low and high. Which one do I adjust? Any pics?
Excuse my ignorance

 

i couldnt find it for you, however somewhere in the forums, a long time ago, there was a detailed set of instructions on how to get all you can out of your VE pump. my friends and i did it to his 93 and it seemed to work ok. you are only talking about 20 30hp at most.

 

i took the full power screw out (after marking it of course) and pryed that collar off with a small screwdriver.

http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/more_power/Power_ve.htm

happy bombing...

 

The low idle screw is the one you want to adjust. It is a bear to get to unless you have a bent 10mm wrench, and even then its not too easy.

 

a trick to getting the lock nut loose on the low idle screw is use a punch and a hammer and knock it loose, that was the easiest way for my to get mine without a 10mm bent wrench. your gonna love driving your truck after adjusting your full fuel screw. I know it made a huge difference on my truck i couldn't believe it.

 

I took mine out and cut it off with dremel. I then just removed the bad threads. It would be better to retap. If you don't repair/remove the threads, the screw will be permently locked in the pump top once you screw it in.

 

He's not lying... believe me Also, don't tighten the jambnut too much.

 

I'm a little confused. You take the fuel pin completely out (marking the stock location 1st of course) and then break the tack weld? Do I totally discard the jambnut? Also what would be the best way to repair/replace the threads?

Sorry for the stupid questions!

 

There is a 13 mm jambnut keeping the full fuel screw tight. You must first loosen this jambnut to be able to back the screw out. It is easiest to mark how far in the screw is and then remove it completely. Once you get it out, there is a lock collar welded on the end that you need to remove. Once that is done, you can put the screw back in to the stock location +1 or so turns and tighten the jambnut. I think I tightened mine a little too much though, because I can't get the fuel screw to move anymore...

 

So the stock location is roughly one turn in or so? I'm marking mine with whiteout and using that as a reference. After I tighten the jambnut, the screw is at 'x' amount of turns and if I want to turn it in more, loosen the jambnut and turn it in and then tighten the jambnut?

 

I was not able to get the collar off without removing the fuel screw from the pump. Some pump builder got really crazy with the tack welding machine! So I loosened the jam nut, then very carefully counted the number of turns it took to remove the screw from the pump. After removing the collar I just screwed it back in as many turns as I did taking it out, then I added 2 more turns for good luck!!

 

I just counted the number of threads on mine put it back in when I got done and then added two more turns in. Its not like you won't ever change it.

 

Sweet, thanks guys. I don't know when I'll get around to doing this though. My garage is occupied by 2 snowmobiles and a little enduro bike at the moment, ALL of them projects . Once I get them out and get my shop cleaned up a bit I'm gonna give'r a go. Doesn't sound too hard. I just gotta remember to mark (or count) the threads/turns for the stock location... like its gonna stay there ever again