Sorry guys, I don't know how to post pics on this forum, but I do on TDR, so I posted everything on the TDR. Link to fuel system thread/pics: http://www.turbodieselregister.com/f...d.php?t=167871

Fuel system gallery in my readers gallery on TDR: http://www.turbodieselregister.com/u...&albumid=18647

I uploaded some pics in my DTR gallery, just waiting for them to be approved.

 

Looks good, Bill. Let me know when you find out how much pressure the front seal holds, I'll set my pump 5 psi lower than that.

 

That is an awful lot of sophisticated plumbing you have got going on there; looks good.

In the picture of the fender-mounted gizmo, with what looks like an electric oil-pressure sender screwed into it, on the lower right side of the gizmo, there is a white/clear plastic tubing with a green ring on it; what purpose does this tubing serve??

Also, why opt for an electric pump, over a piston-pump??

Do you have the electric pump on a dedicated switch; or, is it powered by "ignition on"??

Thanks.

 

I can answer question 2. My truck will pull the piston lift pump down to 5 psi on a hard run. Bill's setup with the pump bypass after the filter guarantees adequate (or in his case higher than recommended ) fuel pressure at the injection pump.

 

What would be the outcome of mounting a filter, like that one, parallel to the frame-rails, instead of standing straight up??

Would the filter and fuel know the difference??

Also, does the excess fuel-pressure/volume have it's own return-line??

If it was tapped into the regular return-line, there would be issues of back-flushing, would there not??

Thanks.

 

That's a water separating filter, it needs to be oriented as shown for the water to settle out at the bottom for draining.

I can't speak for Bill's return line install. The volume of fuel being moved would probably cause excess back pressure in the stock return line, though.

 

That there is 1/4" air tubing with pushlok fittings- green ring thing. It is the boost reference tubing. This regulator will increase fuel pressure 1:1 as boost pressure rises. Base fuel pressure set at 13psi. At 50psi of boost, your fuel pressure would be 50psi + 13psi = 63psi. I'm using a needle valve for now to limit the air to the regulator. Thanks to Wanna for the needle valve idea. I've seen him, and others, use them for fuel pressure gauges. KTA talks about using some kind of retainer to hold the front seal in on the pump shaft. Or a good red loctite job on it. He runs his way up there at full tilt, like 50-60psi of fuel pressure. Some say it will hold up to 30psi with no retainer. I plan to keep it there until I feel the need for more FP, then I'll pull the pump and take care of it.
I got rid of the piston pump because I didn't think it could keep my 14mm VE cooled and lubed. It might have pressure, but no where near the volume it needed. On a stock VE (12mm), I imagine the piston LP is top dog. Maybe with 3/8"ID fuel hose from the piston LP outlet to inlet of VE, you'd have the volume along with pressure. Mount a water separator between the piston LP and fuel tank. 1/2"ID between tank and LP as well. BTW there are shorter water separator/filters available. One doesn't necessarily need a 10" filter hanging down there.
Ignition switched on. Wired per Aeromotive's instructions. I have a 30/40 amp relay and 30 amp fuse somewhere in there.
Yes, the regulator is a bypass design. It uses 1/2"ID hose to run the excess pressure/volume back to the top of the tank.

 

I'm pulling mine down to 5 psi on a fresh filter with full fuel. On my last dyno sheet, when I ran in valet mode it would hold 10 psi. You can see on the chart how that extra fuel pressure keeps the top end of the curve up, I am sure I'm losing timing advance at 5 psi input to the VE.

If everything shows up and the weather cooperates, my piston pump will be relegated to back-up duty on Sunday.

 

Looks good Bill!

 

Dave you're probly right. I think I was thinking along the lines of bigger fuel line along with the piston pump would be top dog.