Ive been too busy to post these, but here is the finnished product. No more banjo bolts, just 3/8" line and fittings the whole way. WOT now still has my 15psi gauge pegged, so I'm just assuming its not dropping from the 18psi the pump puts out.

 

More pics......I got the filter assembly from tractor supply, and they carry the 5 micron replacement filters there. I made the bracket its mounted to. This simple fuel system should keep the pump fed for up to 600hp with all 3/8" line. At least thats what I hear, we'll see if it does.

 

THAT is exactly what i was thinking... did you epoxy the barb into the pickup?? i'm planning on running 1/2" line(aluminum) all the way to the front. I would like to upgrade the fuel filter also... how much did you spend for your universal kit? i will need 2....

 

Yes I epoxied the barb into the pickup, and its NEVER coming out. 1/2" line is somewhat overkill unless your making over 600whp IMO.

I got the pump at Summit for $130, filter head and filter at tractor supply for $30, and 3/8" fuel line and fittings at the auto parts for $25. I already had the wire and relay for the pump, but any auto parts will have them for around $7. So overall less than $200 and a few hours of work.

 

Is that a Holley Black? You never say.

 

its a carter 100gph 18psi internaly regulated pump. The same pump BD sells in there kit for the VP44 trucks for $350, thats supposed to support 600whp applications. They are on sell now......

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRT-P4601HP/

 

I read in some posts on the 4601hp that you need to remove the screens in the pump? I did but don't know if I should have? Do you have anything between the tank and pump?

 

Waste of money and time I went through 3 pumps then installed a fass and never had a problem since 4 years and counting!!!!!!!!!

 

I left the screens in the pump. The pickup in the tank has a really fine screen on it, so I'm not worried about picking up any large pieces of trash.

Dieselbuilder, not sure why you had bad luck with 3 other pumps. But the carter 4601hp is a long lasting and reliable pump. Plus it gets the job done I need it to do, and 1/3 the cost. And I can walk into a store anywhere and buy a replacement filter. A FASS system is a great system, but good luck getting replacement filters with ease. Very few places carry the fleetgaurds you can run on a FASS, and most only sell them by the case.

 

Mounted on your vibrating engine with 15 ft of line to suck through on your 2nd Gen 24 valve I assume?

They do way better with a short suction line and mounted to the frame.

PWRTRIP: what fitting did you use going into the pump, I assume it's not NPT. Also, is that a large fender washer you used on the nipple you epoxied to the suction set up or was that there? What did you use for a "draw straw", just fuel grade hose?

 

That's a really nice install for a fuel system that will keep up with fuel flow on a higher horse engine, not to mention you can't complain on the cost of it all. Makes me want to do the same thing, but I think I'd rather use the cam driven, mechanical lift pump instead of an electric pump. And by mechanical pump I do mean at least the low pressure piston pump because the original diaphram pump is really only good for a stock engine. Did you keep the fuel return line plumbed like original on these trucks and then block off the fuel supply nipple in favor of your 3/8" nipple? And nice job by the way.

 

I totaly removed the stock feed line from the tank all the way up to the engine bay. I removed the stock fuel supply banjo fittings, stock fuel filter, and replaced the inlet into the pump. The return line I left untouched because this pump is regulated internaly at 18psi, so no need to alter the return. The 3/8" fuel line worked out great because the plastic clips that hold the fuel lines has a 1/2" clip not used, so the 3/8" line popped right in like it belongs there.

 

Pwrtripls1 - I have a few questions:

1 - what size adapter did you use going into the VE?

2 - Did you just leave the hard lines from the OEM lp to the VE in place or completely remove them and the filter? If you did, did you plug the holes or anything on the banjo's and filter?

3 - How loud is the pump? Can you hear it in the cab going 60MPH?

4 - With the pump being 18 PSI is there a fear of blowing the front seal out of the VE? I was under the impression 15 PSI was all the inlet pressure it could handle.

5 - Would you consider this a dependable setup for a daily driver? I know your building a drag type truck, and I need something that I could hop in and depend on getting me to Colorado or the Valley without needing to carry a spare in the toolbox.

The reason for all these questions is I think I have finally figured out the reason my truck cannot keep up with the fuel supply even from the Piston LP: I'm thinking the lob on the cam that drives the LP is worn not allowing for a full stroke to pump. That's purely speculation at this point, but I've double-checked every aspect of my fuel system including having my VE rebuilt with new DDP3 injectors and still having my truck lose power and the FP gauge bounce. Its intermitten and bouncing FP gauge = stock or less power but a smooth at idle pegged at 15 PSI gauge means hold on we're either going to break the clutch or the tires loose!

 

To answer in order,
1. 3/8" Barb NPT plumbed right into the stock fitting.
2. I removed all the stock lines from the mechanical LP, both to the tank and to the IP. I just left the old fuel passages open, it wont hurt anything. The new 3/8" line runs from the in tank pickup all the way to the injector pump. So there are no restricted banjo bolts.
3. When you first turn the key on, before the engine starts, you hear the pump hum. But once the engine starts at idle you barely hear it at all. Anything over idle and you hear nothing.
4. Going past 20-25psi can push an old weak seal out. But 18psi you should never have a problem. I've even run into a couple guys running the high pressure piston pump over 40psi and had no problems. I wouldnt push my luck too far though.
5. Yes it is a very reliable pump. We have a 99' GMC Topkick with a 6.6L Cat I-6 in it thats run this same pump for several years and over 200,000 miles. I doubt I will ever have to replace it. My truck is a track toy, but I like to also drive it reliably, especialy in the winter. My Dmax may be a little nicer, but I just love driving the old 92'. Its like that somewhat unattractive neighbor chick that knows how to get you where you need to be. May not be as nice, but one fun, long lasting ride!!!!

 

A.) what threads go into the IP

B.) stock draw tube up from the screen to the top of the sending unit in the tank? If not, what did you use? Rubber hose, plastic, etc?

I got the same pump sitting in my closet and really need to get my butt in gear and do this too! I was waiting for a Hellmann sump but this should be fine too.