Fuel Pin
#1
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Fuel Pin
For the last few months the truck has not seemed to have as much power as it used to have and I also noticed the boost would not build as fast, so I first pulled the AFC diaphragm and pin then did an inspection, I found the pin was stuck and was hard to move so it was not freely sliding on the taper of the fuel pin.
So off came the top of the pump.
This is just here incase you wanted to see what the inside of the Full Fuel Screw looks like.
This is what I am concerned about, the wear on the shaft under the weights look a bit scuffed and also the wear pattern on the gear teeth.
I think there is a problem with the lubricity of my fuel like the lack of it.
For reference,
This is how the 3200 spring looks like under the top in its operation position.
I also checked the depth that the pin was traveling down into the well; the mark is where the pin was riding. I defiantly had a bit more to go.
Same thing from a different angle.
So instead of grinding down the washer and maybe messing it up I measured the depth from the end of the last mark to the end of the pin, then I made up this distance by stacking 2 o-rings onto the pin, not it should be able to travel to the deepest part of the pin and then come to a cushiony stop.
These are the sizes I used to make up the distance.
After the fit, I changed them to ones from my Nitrile kit.
Not included in the pictures I had to remove the stuck pin and find out why, the pin although was wet with fuel was dry as far as lubrication and would stick in the o-ring, I cleaned and polished the pin and replaced the o-ring. After I lubed it with STP and reinstalled it then it was working perfectly again.
I feel it was all related to the dry fuel here in California, when I had my 6.2 if I missed 1 treatment with Stanadyne the throttle would bind up and sometimes stick WOT.
I believe I am now getting more fuel, tonight while getting onto the freeway I got still 28 PSI boost but it reached 1400* EGT briefly until I backed off the throttle and reached the 90 MPH mark.
But I still only get a light haze, why?
Also is there any reason the o-rings on the pin would not work the same as grinding the washer?
Give me your thoughts.
Jim
So off came the top of the pump.
This is just here incase you wanted to see what the inside of the Full Fuel Screw looks like.
This is what I am concerned about, the wear on the shaft under the weights look a bit scuffed and also the wear pattern on the gear teeth.
I think there is a problem with the lubricity of my fuel like the lack of it.
For reference,
This is how the 3200 spring looks like under the top in its operation position.
I also checked the depth that the pin was traveling down into the well; the mark is where the pin was riding. I defiantly had a bit more to go.
Same thing from a different angle.
So instead of grinding down the washer and maybe messing it up I measured the depth from the end of the last mark to the end of the pin, then I made up this distance by stacking 2 o-rings onto the pin, not it should be able to travel to the deepest part of the pin and then come to a cushiony stop.
These are the sizes I used to make up the distance.
After the fit, I changed them to ones from my Nitrile kit.
Not included in the pictures I had to remove the stuck pin and find out why, the pin although was wet with fuel was dry as far as lubrication and would stick in the o-ring, I cleaned and polished the pin and replaced the o-ring. After I lubed it with STP and reinstalled it then it was working perfectly again.
I feel it was all related to the dry fuel here in California, when I had my 6.2 if I missed 1 treatment with Stanadyne the throttle would bind up and sometimes stick WOT.
I believe I am now getting more fuel, tonight while getting onto the freeway I got still 28 PSI boost but it reached 1400* EGT briefly until I backed off the throttle and reached the 90 MPH mark.
But I still only get a light haze, why?
Also is there any reason the o-rings on the pin would not work the same as grinding the washer?
Give me your thoughts.
Jim
#3
Registered User
The question isn't about getting more fuel, it's about weather or not your turbo is delivering enough air to burn said fuel. Even though you got more fuel now, the turbo seems to still be able to keep up with the demand, albeit just barely at 1400*
I don't see a problem with the o-rings at all.
Cool pics, as always Jim!
I don't see a problem with the o-rings at all.
Cool pics, as always Jim!
#4
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Location: Port Crane (Binghamton) NY
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Hey Jim, what additive are you using? Stanadyne i'll assume? It been awhile sence I have been in Cali, but even in my big truck, your Cali fuel killed my mileage by as much as 1.5 MPG, even running my favorite additive.
And why does everyhting look brass or copper on yer pump??? lol
Give Lucas fuel treatment and top end lubricant a try. I love the fact it ALWAYS boosted my mileage in my Semi, plus the fact it poors like 15W-40 motor oil. So ya know its doin some lubricating. 8oz. per fillup is what i use in my pickup. (33 gal. tank)
Now just fer grins, how much exra fuel are u giv'n the ol girl? Just for reference, the dually barilly hazed under WOT under boost (37 PSI) with the ground pin, and 2 1/2 turns on the fuel screw. Sounds to me like a healthy turbo, at its limits.
And why does everyhting look brass or copper on yer pump??? lol
Give Lucas fuel treatment and top end lubricant a try. I love the fact it ALWAYS boosted my mileage in my Semi, plus the fact it poors like 15W-40 motor oil. So ya know its doin some lubricating. 8oz. per fillup is what i use in my pickup. (33 gal. tank)
Now just fer grins, how much exra fuel are u giv'n the ol girl? Just for reference, the dually barilly hazed under WOT under boost (37 PSI) with the ground pin, and 2 1/2 turns on the fuel screw. Sounds to me like a healthy turbo, at its limits.
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