finally gauges hooked up but a few ??
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finally gauges hooked up but a few ??
ok finally done with the gauge install but i have a few problems and a few questions.
1. tranny temp in the hot line is around 200 just cruising at 10mph or so. is that right? it idles in neutral at 160 or more
2. fuel pressure is 0 all the time. ive checked for kinks and if i blow on it the gauge goes up. does the gauge have to be bled? i dont remember having to bleed the isspro on the 98.5. is the pump a gonner.
3. boost is 0 also and it will blow up it was stuck on 17 so i took it apart and there is a plastic connector that came loose so hooked it up and went back to 0. checked for kinks none. is the factory port on the intake manifold right under the boost elbo and grid heater a good spot?
4. EGTs are between 4-600 around 40mph. im sure thats ok. just checking this is my 1st, 1st gen
1. tranny temp in the hot line is around 200 just cruising at 10mph or so. is that right? it idles in neutral at 160 or more
2. fuel pressure is 0 all the time. ive checked for kinks and if i blow on it the gauge goes up. does the gauge have to be bled? i dont remember having to bleed the isspro on the 98.5. is the pump a gonner.
3. boost is 0 also and it will blow up it was stuck on 17 so i took it apart and there is a plastic connector that came loose so hooked it up and went back to 0. checked for kinks none. is the factory port on the intake manifold right under the boost elbo and grid heater a good spot?
4. EGTs are between 4-600 around 40mph. im sure thats ok. just checking this is my 1st, 1st gen
#2
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If your fuel pressure gauge is reading 0psi, I would guess that your lift pump is dead. Our injection pumps are capable of drawing there own fuel, so they will run with a dead lp.
I'm gonna guess that your boost gauge is always at 0, even if you floor it while driving? I have mine hooked up the same spot in the head and it works fine, so I would look for leaks in the line somewhere.
On the egt's, I was told that 100 degrees per 10mph is about how it should read cruising, (600 degrees at 60mph). That is of course with the probe pre turbo. With my pump turned up and my stock turbo my truck ran a little hotter than that while cruising.
I got nothing for your trans temp question though. Sorry.
Hope I was able to help ya out some.
I'm gonna guess that your boost gauge is always at 0, even if you floor it while driving? I have mine hooked up the same spot in the head and it works fine, so I would look for leaks in the line somewhere.
On the egt's, I was told that 100 degrees per 10mph is about how it should read cruising, (600 degrees at 60mph). That is of course with the probe pre turbo. With my pump turned up and my stock turbo my truck ran a little hotter than that while cruising.
I got nothing for your trans temp question though. Sorry.
Hope I was able to help ya out some.
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yeah thanks at 40mph should i see some boost with stock ex housing? i did blow the boost gauge up with a little blower hooked up to the compressor and it worked fine. im not sure what the deal is
if anyone could help me i was reading some back posts on the tranny temp and that 200 seems way to hot so is it where i have it hooked up in the OD spot, thts why its so hot or do i have some cross wires or what.
if anyone could help me i was reading some back posts on the tranny temp and that 200 seems way to hot so is it where i have it hooked up in the OD spot, thts why its so hot or do i have some cross wires or what.
#4
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My tranny temp runs right around 140 being easy on the pedal and around 160-190 average going on backish roads and up slight hills and stuff, just normal driving.
If I beat on it I can run it up to 260+ but I don't do that often. the tranny is a built transmission and nothing is wrong with it I'm almost certain
I'm tapped into my line right under my bed before it runs into my auxiliary trans cooler on the hot side.
If I beat on it I can run it up to 260+ but I don't do that often. the tranny is a built transmission and nothing is wrong with it I'm almost certain
I'm tapped into my line right under my bed before it runs into my auxiliary trans cooler on the hot side.
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If your reading the hot/output of the trans then ya its gonna be hotter then if you get your reading from the pan. I dont remember my numbers but it is a big difference. The hot output is the temp of the fluid as it comes out of the converter. Those numbers dont sound to crazy for a non lock up converter. On my 47rh when I lock the converter my temp can drop as much as 30+ degrees.
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#8
Out line meaning tapping into the line at the most front of the transmission(hot line) and the most rear line coming from the coolers is the ATF return line(cool line). If this is what you are meaning, as a scenario, in CA temps now around noon are in the 50's and at cruising speen(60-70 mph) my temps are 150. As soon as I get into town w/ all the stop lights and such the temps climp up to 165. At a stop, I mean traffic backed up, my temps easily climp to 180. During the summer months I can expect to see an additional 15 to 20 degrees more at the given temps/scenarios. I, too have an aux. cooler/with fan that is being fed straight from the out line, goes through the aux. cooler, runs then to the cooler under the turbo, then to the finakl cooler by the front grill, then back to tranny. I pull my temps right as it comes out the hot line. I used to pull my temps from the pan, and the readings showed 15-20 degrees cooler.
Your boost guage will read next to nothing if you are cruising on flat road at a steady speed(around 5 psi). If you punch it going up a grade you should see anywhere(depending on your mods, with a single turbo) 18-30 psi. Check all intercooler boots, piping, etc. and possibly your intercooler for leaks if you cannot obtain these readings.
Your egt's sound correct.
Yiour fuel pressure, should read (I am using my readings as an example, and that is w/ the plunger lp) 15 psi steady and drop to around 10 psi at WOT. If I remember right, for stock lp, the readings are around 7 or 9 psi steady and 5 psi at WOT. Do not let your psi readings get at 3 and below psi on a stocker lp. Filter is clogged. At idle, if connected properly, your fuel pressure guage will have a reading. Make sure the negative wire is solo, and tied into the engine block somewhere(Autometer tech reccomendation). The solo negative mount also should fall for your pyrometer.
Your boost guage will read next to nothing if you are cruising on flat road at a steady speed(around 5 psi). If you punch it going up a grade you should see anywhere(depending on your mods, with a single turbo) 18-30 psi. Check all intercooler boots, piping, etc. and possibly your intercooler for leaks if you cannot obtain these readings.
Your egt's sound correct.
Yiour fuel pressure, should read (I am using my readings as an example, and that is w/ the plunger lp) 15 psi steady and drop to around 10 psi at WOT. If I remember right, for stock lp, the readings are around 7 or 9 psi steady and 5 psi at WOT. Do not let your psi readings get at 3 and below psi on a stocker lp. Filter is clogged. At idle, if connected properly, your fuel pressure guage will have a reading. Make sure the negative wire is solo, and tied into the engine block somewhere(Autometer tech reccomendation). The solo negative mount also should fall for your pyrometer.
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well i finally got to take it for a good drive temps out side are around 70 so the trans says 230-250 all the time. i finally got it to boost if i punch it the boost hit about 17 it seems like it takes a lot to make these things boost.
the pyro seems to be working ok cruising at 60 it stays around 700-800.
bigragu for the grounds were u talking about the fuel pressure ground? i have a mechanical gauge. or all the gauges?
the pyro seems to be working ok cruising at 60 it stays around 700-800.
bigragu for the grounds were u talking about the fuel pressure ground? i have a mechanical gauge. or all the gauges?
#11
well i finally got to take it for a good drive temps out side are around 70 so the trans says 230-250 all the time. i finally got it to boost if i punch it the boost hit about 17 it seems like it takes a lot to make these things boost.
the pyro seems to be working ok cruising at 60 it stays around 700-800.
bigragu for the grounds were u talking about the fuel pressure ground? i have a mechanical gauge. or all the gauges?
the pyro seems to be working ok cruising at 60 it stays around 700-800.
bigragu for the grounds were u talking about the fuel pressure ground? i have a mechanical gauge. or all the gauges?
1. What type of guages?
2. did you use thread sealants on your boost guage fittings?
3. Are your intake system components snug and leak free?
4. Where are you pullin' your tranny temps from? Have you serviced the transmission lately?
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Would no fuel pressure cause low boost? I have Autometer gauges and I did use thread tape I need to check for leaks and the trans temp is in the hot line where the OD sensor used to be. How do I get the air out of the line?
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yes no FP could cause low boost, because theres no fuel to make boost, to get the air out of the line you'd have to loosen it and leek the air out thats ho i would do, but OUT OF THE CAB of course.
another thing with thread tape it can get into the lines and plug things up
another thing with thread tape it can get into the lines and plug things up
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