Engine Coolant
Engine Coolant
My 93 is gonna need a drain,flush and refill on the engine coolant and was thinking of refilling with the Caterpillar ELC after doing some reading and research on this. What are you guys using in your trucks and recommend? I will change the thermostat while doing this also.
I use and reccomend 2 gallons ShellZone Low Silacate Coolant mixed with 2 gallons Arrowhead Distilled Water after a good thorough backflush of the cooling system. Adjust ratio to suit your climate.
I also reccomend installing a coolant filter like I have.
Jim
I also reccomend installing a coolant filter like I have.
Jim
Just a few things I found out when I was researching for the right stuff to use
Q13: What coolant should I use?
A13: Looks like we’ve done a complete 360° walk around the block (cylinder block, that is). Please see the reprinted table that Andy Redmond provided in Issue 54. The short answer: Chrysler specification MSS-9769, HOAT coolant which is backward compatible to all years of the Turbo Diesel. That’s right, use the yellow stuff after you drain the green stuff. And, thankfully we do not have to be concerned with cavitation erosion.(because our engines do not have wet sleeves)
CAUSES OF RADIATOR FAILURES
ELECTROLYTIC CORROSION
A different type of corrosion can also occur in the cooling system even if the coolant is in good condition. Electrolytic corrosion can occur if the engine does not have a good electrical ground connection. Voltage from the charging system and ignition system will flow through the coolant to ground, creating electrolysis corrosion that eats away at the metal components in the cooling system. This may eat pin holes into the radiator or heater core and cause coolant leaks. It can even eat away at the inside of rubber hoses and cause them to fail also.
This type of corrosion can sometimes be detected with a voltmeter. Place the positive test lead into the coolant, and touch the negative lead to battery negative terminal or body ground. If the voltmeter shows more than a few tenths of a volt, current is traveling through the coolant and may be attacking the cooling system. Check the engine ground straps for loose or corroded connections. If a ground strap is missing, replace it (or install an extra strap if one is not enough).

HOW IT WORKS: Why More Antifreeze Isn't Better
Water, with the proper anticorrosion additives, would make an adequate cooling medium for automotive engines. But it freezes, and boils over. Ethylene glycol, an alcohol, is added to extend the boiling and freezing points of the coolant. Why not run pure glycol, and get better freezing/boil-over protection? As you can see from the chart, pure ethylene glycol will freeze at essentially the same temperature as water. At concentrations higher then 70 percent or so, freeze protection is not very good. Also, ethylene glycol doesn't carry as much heat from the engine to the radiator as an equivalent amount of water, which can result in overheating. Stick with concentrations of 50 percent to 60 percent water/antifreeze.
Read more: Choosing The Right Coolant - Popular Mechanics
Q13: What coolant should I use?
A13: Looks like we’ve done a complete 360° walk around the block (cylinder block, that is). Please see the reprinted table that Andy Redmond provided in Issue 54. The short answer: Chrysler specification MSS-9769, HOAT coolant which is backward compatible to all years of the Turbo Diesel. That’s right, use the yellow stuff after you drain the green stuff. And, thankfully we do not have to be concerned with cavitation erosion.(because our engines do not have wet sleeves)
CAUSES OF RADIATOR FAILURES
ELECTROLYTIC CORROSION
A different type of corrosion can also occur in the cooling system even if the coolant is in good condition. Electrolytic corrosion can occur if the engine does not have a good electrical ground connection. Voltage from the charging system and ignition system will flow through the coolant to ground, creating electrolysis corrosion that eats away at the metal components in the cooling system. This may eat pin holes into the radiator or heater core and cause coolant leaks. It can even eat away at the inside of rubber hoses and cause them to fail also.
This type of corrosion can sometimes be detected with a voltmeter. Place the positive test lead into the coolant, and touch the negative lead to battery negative terminal or body ground. If the voltmeter shows more than a few tenths of a volt, current is traveling through the coolant and may be attacking the cooling system. Check the engine ground straps for loose or corroded connections. If a ground strap is missing, replace it (or install an extra strap if one is not enough).

HOW IT WORKS: Why More Antifreeze Isn't Better
Water, with the proper anticorrosion additives, would make an adequate cooling medium for automotive engines. But it freezes, and boils over. Ethylene glycol, an alcohol, is added to extend the boiling and freezing points of the coolant. Why not run pure glycol, and get better freezing/boil-over protection? As you can see from the chart, pure ethylene glycol will freeze at essentially the same temperature as water. At concentrations higher then 70 percent or so, freeze protection is not very good. Also, ethylene glycol doesn't carry as much heat from the engine to the radiator as an equivalent amount of water, which can result in overheating. Stick with concentrations of 50 percent to 60 percent water/antifreeze.
Read more: Choosing The Right Coolant - Popular Mechanics
Just a few things I found out when I was researching for the right stuff to use
Q13: What coolant should I use?
A13: Looks like we’ve done a complete 360° walk around the block (cylinder block, that is). Please see the reprinted table that Andy Redmond provided in Issue 54. The short answer: Chrysler specification MSS-9769, HOAT coolant which is backward compatible to all years of the Turbo Diesel. That’s right, use the yellow stuff after you drain the green stuff. And, thankfully we do not have to be concerned with cavitation erosion.(because our engines do not have wet sleeves)
CAUSES OF RADIATOR FAILURES
ELECTROLYTIC CORROSION
A different type of corrosion can also occur in the cooling system even if the coolant is in good condition. Electrolytic corrosion can occur if the engine does not have a good electrical ground connection. Voltage from the charging system and ignition system will flow through the coolant to ground, creating electrolysis corrosion that eats away at the metal components in the cooling system. This may eat pin holes into the radiator or heater core and cause coolant leaks. It can even eat away at the inside of rubber hoses and cause them to fail also.
This type of corrosion can sometimes be detected with a voltmeter. Place the positive test lead into the coolant, and touch the negative lead to battery negative terminal or body ground. If the voltmeter shows more than a few tenths of a volt, current is traveling through the coolant and may be attacking the cooling system. Check the engine ground straps for loose or corroded connections. If a ground strap is missing, replace it (or install an extra strap if one is not enough).

HOW IT WORKS: Why More Antifreeze Isn't Better
Water, with the proper anticorrosion additives, would make an adequate cooling medium for automotive engines. But it freezes, and boils over. Ethylene glycol, an alcohol, is added to extend the boiling and freezing points of the coolant. Why not run pure glycol, and get better freezing/boil-over protection? As you can see from the chart, pure ethylene glycol will freeze at essentially the same temperature as water. At concentrations higher then 70 percent or so, freeze protection is not very good. Also, ethylene glycol doesn't carry as much heat from the engine to the radiator as an equivalent amount of water, which can result in overheating. Stick with concentrations of 50 percent to 60 percent water/antifreeze.
Read more: Choosing The Right Coolant - Popular Mechanics
Q13: What coolant should I use?
A13: Looks like we’ve done a complete 360° walk around the block (cylinder block, that is). Please see the reprinted table that Andy Redmond provided in Issue 54. The short answer: Chrysler specification MSS-9769, HOAT coolant which is backward compatible to all years of the Turbo Diesel. That’s right, use the yellow stuff after you drain the green stuff. And, thankfully we do not have to be concerned with cavitation erosion.(because our engines do not have wet sleeves)
CAUSES OF RADIATOR FAILURES
ELECTROLYTIC CORROSION
A different type of corrosion can also occur in the cooling system even if the coolant is in good condition. Electrolytic corrosion can occur if the engine does not have a good electrical ground connection. Voltage from the charging system and ignition system will flow through the coolant to ground, creating electrolysis corrosion that eats away at the metal components in the cooling system. This may eat pin holes into the radiator or heater core and cause coolant leaks. It can even eat away at the inside of rubber hoses and cause them to fail also.
This type of corrosion can sometimes be detected with a voltmeter. Place the positive test lead into the coolant, and touch the negative lead to battery negative terminal or body ground. If the voltmeter shows more than a few tenths of a volt, current is traveling through the coolant and may be attacking the cooling system. Check the engine ground straps for loose or corroded connections. If a ground strap is missing, replace it (or install an extra strap if one is not enough).

HOW IT WORKS: Why More Antifreeze Isn't Better
Water, with the proper anticorrosion additives, would make an adequate cooling medium for automotive engines. But it freezes, and boils over. Ethylene glycol, an alcohol, is added to extend the boiling and freezing points of the coolant. Why not run pure glycol, and get better freezing/boil-over protection? As you can see from the chart, pure ethylene glycol will freeze at essentially the same temperature as water. At concentrations higher then 70 percent or so, freeze protection is not very good. Also, ethylene glycol doesn't carry as much heat from the engine to the radiator as an equivalent amount of water, which can result in overheating. Stick with concentrations of 50 percent to 60 percent water/antifreeze.
Read more: Choosing The Right Coolant - Popular Mechanics
NOT!!!!!!!


...Mark
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...Mark
