When I had my truck apart I found a huge crack on the top of my frame rail in front of the steering box, and I can't decide the best way to fix it...
Any ideas?

 

Drill a hole at the end of the crack to stop it, then grind out a V in the top and bottom of the frame and weld it back. Start at the inside at the hole and go to the outside then with out stopping go back over your weld about 1/2" then stop, that keeps the end or the weld from being too then and wanting to crack again. Be sure to grind the weld smooth at the edge of the frame. The hole you drill is to stop the crack, with out it even with a weld there is still a part of the crack that can start to crack it again. Trust me on this one. I had to do it on mine and it has worked for 4 years and over 200k miles with 33's ,36's and 38's. If you dont drill a hole it will crack again. cracks work like a wedge and the hole takes away all the leverage it has to keep going more. I dont like the weld on frames but this is the only way, you may also want to add a strap bolted to the frame for extra support or even box the frame.

 

i have the same exact problem with my truck and as long as it works it looks like i will be doing the same.i have already welded a gusset in there to relieve some stress and it looks like i will be drilling a hole to stop the crack.did you do it on both ends of the crack and how do you recomend getting in there?did you remove steering box,core support etc.?

 

Should I torch weld it or MIG? I don't have a TIG, which would make the nicest looking welds... I will drill it right away and get it welded up. I think I will engineer something to make that section stronger too.
Thanks for the advice!

 

Forgot to mention that I already welded cracks right behind the steering box..

 

Mig weld it. You can also make a plate to help strengthen the area. Make it a diamond shape and weld it over the bad area. The shape will put the stress at a different angle.

 

i agree w/ leper on this one, especially the diamond shape. if it were me, i would have no problem stick welding it, as i have done it many times. putting a "backing plate" on the bottom side of the top frame rail may also help prevent this in the future. my frame has been welded numerous times, mostly as a result of pushing an 11ft fixed angle snowplow when the town owned it.

 

Drill the hole just past the tip ogf the crack so that when it gets to the hole it deadends and has no were to go. MIG is fine. Yes put some sort of gusset or box the frame to take some of the extra stress off of that spot if you can.

 

mig is alittle brittle i was thinking more of the flexible stick rod. can't remember the number of the rod right now. e6013? or e6018? recomendations? i am thinking of boxing my crew cab frame.

 

Do it all - drill, grind, diamond, weld AND box.

 

use 7018 its the only rod accepted as structural for all possition there are a few wires that are structural rated but they are spendy and often harder to run and none of the are hard wires they are flux core or duel sheild.i think a frame rale qualifies as structural.if you do use 7018 preheat your rod and your weld joint and turn your machine down as low as you can and stil get a nice weld watch out for under cut and coldlap.if you dnt get either one your in good shape.be sure get rid of any oil grease or dirt that may get into your weld.anyway thats my two cents worth i hope that helps.

 

Just as an example of what Mark's talking about. The camera's looking through where the radiator would normally sit, and that's the steering box mounting plate in the background. ~

 

sigh, such a familiar sight.

 

I would use 7018 also. The area to be welded MUST be clean of all rust, dirt, and any other contaminates for it to be 100%. I would excavate the crack and put in a bead from above then excavate from the bottom and lay in another bead if it is easy to get to. Grind away your starts and stops prior to laying in another bead. A wire wheel on a grinder makes cleaning the slag off between welds easier or use a needle gun. In fact a needle gun is a good way to reduce stresses from welding by massaging the weld and area around it after you have put in the last bead.
As far as weld rod diameter, I would run 3/32 or 1/16 if I could find some. Baking the rod at 180 degrees in an oven for at least an two hours immediately prior to use to eliminate moisture in the flux is a real good idea. After the rod has been exposed to atmosphere for no more than one hour, it should be rebaked. At work we are only allowed to store opened rod in ovens. Otherwise we aren't allowed to use it.

 

I have the grand canyon of cracks, and just noticed that my PS, PS pump bracket is cracked pretty much beyond repair. It's been flexing so much it's probably annealed, so I would have to heat treat it after welding. Guess I will look for a new one.