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Clutch! I don't need no stinkin' clutch! Or Do I?

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Old Nov 2, 2007 | 08:36 PM
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From: Canton, Georgia
Clutch! I don't need no stinkin' clutch! Or Do I?

Ok! I am sorry for beating a dead horse; however, I did research this here and am still confused. Dave my current clutch has lasted about 40k miles I think I've been had. I am trying to find a price for a 13 inch Sachs double disc. Will this hold up in my current configuration? I tow the occasional 10k lb. trailer not far and haul 5-6 cords of wood a year with her. I have no idea what my hp/torque is because my clutch slips too much for a dyno run. I'm guessing 250/500 maybe. What do you all think. I don't mind a stiff pedal if the clutch will last for 100k miles.
Input is appreciated as always.
Thanks,

Joseph

P.S. The clutch slips between 2k-2.5k rpm when I get on it. No noticeable slippage under normal driving condions yet. However, it won't be long now until it slips completely. I have no idea what clutch is in it now.
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Old Nov 2, 2007 | 10:11 PM
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What DDP injectors did you get? They are the only thing I can think of that would give you enough power and torque in themselves to cause clutch problems. The rest of it sounds like you are probably right in your HP/Tq estimate, though it could be a little low. They come from the factory with 160/400, so 200/500 isnt much of an increase.

I'd recommend either a Sachs stock replacement, or a South Bend clutch. I have no experience with SBC, but the stock clutches have held up just fine in my use. I wasnt aware there was a Sachs DD clutch available. I could be in the dark, though.

Things to consider-

Is your tranny front seal leaking? If oil is getting onto the clutch or flywheel surface, it wont hold as much.

Is the clutch engaging all the way? I wouldnt think it to be a problem- disengagement is normally the problem in our trucks/

The disc could just be worn from misuse and abuse (by standards of intended use) or just plain age, though my current clutch has more miles than the 270K on the truck.

Hope you get it figured out. It does seem odd that you are slipping at that high an RPM, unless you just have no bottom end.

Daniel
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Old Nov 3, 2007 | 06:33 AM
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Thanks Daniel, How do I check my tranny front seal? If it is bad are they easy to replace or do I have to crack the tranny case? There is a lot of oil all over everything down there but I can't tell if it is engine blow-by out of the tube or tranny oil.
One other thing I noticed, my clutch pedal has about 1-2 inches of free play before I even put my foot on it. It bounces when I am driving down the road. Is this a bad spring or something else?

Joseph
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Old Nov 3, 2007 | 11:22 AM
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In my opinion, the genuine original SACHS is the ONLY clutch to use.
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Old Nov 3, 2007 | 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by angelfire7
Dave my current clutch has lasted about 40k miles I think I've been had.
Your clutch is named Dave? I don't know whether to be flattered or insulted.

I think you ought to step up to a Con-OFE. It's a stout clutch but not too grabby for backing a trailer.

I know I'm usually a Sachs booster, but with the big injectors your truck is on the edge of being too much for the clutch. Some more fuel screw tweaking and a bigger turbo would put you over what you can expect the Sachs to hold.
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Old Nov 5, 2007 | 05:38 PM
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To check the tranny front seal, you have to pull the tranny. Front seal is not hard to change- just take the 4 bolts out of the front seal holder and pull it off the input shaft. No preload shims or anything of that sort to worry about. Check the input shaft where the seal rides and see if it has a groove. If it does, you can install a speedy sleeve and run it that way. I have one in my current Getrag. If not, install a new seal and lube it lightly and reinstall. It helps to turn the seal housing as you install it to keep the seal from getting bunged up on install. I use and HIGHLY recommend anaerobic sealant over silicone for the housing to case surface seal. Makes a much better seal than RTV.

DP
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Old Nov 6, 2007 | 08:26 AM
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OK! Guys I just ordered a Con OFE from South Bend clutch. They are expensive. WANNADIESEL I hope this clutch is worth it. Now I have to figure out how to install it. I think I am going to have it done.

Joseph
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Old Nov 6, 2007 | 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by angelfire7
Now I have to figure out how to install it. I think I am going to have it done.
A clutch install is nothing to be afraid of. If you have a Harbor Freight store nearby, you can get a nice tranny jack to make the job easier.
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Old Nov 7, 2007 | 06:24 AM
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Originally Posted by bgilbert
A clutch install is nothing to be afraid of. If you have a Harbor Freight store nearby, you can get a nice tranny jack to make the job easier.
Bill, I went to Harbor freight yesterday and purchased a HD 3 ton floor jack, 6 ton jack stands, a transmission adapter to go on the 3 ton jack, and a creeper for me to ease things. I have a buddy coming up from Savannah next week and hope to save a few bucks by installing it ourselves.
I will keep this thread going with posts and photos if anyone is intrested.

Joseph
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Old Nov 7, 2007 | 09:48 AM
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I'll be watching! I'm only a set of injectors and a new turbo away from a clutch install myself.
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