Check your 4wd
#1
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Location: Dinwiddie, VA
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Check your 4wd
I havent' had to use 4wd yet in my new to me 93 but since it is almost December I thought I'd go out and try it out. Let me start off by saying man it was hard to get in 4wd. I went and locked the hubs and drove back to the farm. I got in some loose terrain and tried to "slide" it back into 4wd hi. It took a little convincing. I stopped. Put trans in NEUTRAL and tried to get it into 4LO and it wouldn't budge past NUETRAL in the transfer case. I put it in drive and creeped forward. Came to a stop with my foot off the brake and it went into 4LO. I pulled forward and it sounded like something was banging. . I had to try 20 times to get it back into 2wd. I finally did and crawled under the truck. I sprayed all the linkages for the transfer case with some lube. I could see where the transfer case selector stick comes through the bottom of the truck. There is a large spring that looked a little rough. I sprayed the hell out of it. Went back in the truck and WOW. It shifts like it should have when it was new. I guess the previous owner never really used the 4wd. Just a friendly reminder to check out yours before you are laying on your back in the SNOW
#4
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You have to catch the gears in the backlash without any load on them. Giver some gas then let off, as soon as you let off shift the t-case in or out of 4HI. I can easily shift my t-case in and out at highway speeds like this.
#5
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Location: Katy, TX off north Mason Road.
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The day I picked mine up I got it stuck in mud. I couldnt figure out how to work the locking hubs. LOL
I accidentally drove it all the way home in 4hi with the hubs unlocked and it vibrated alot. I've since figured out how it all works, but my front u-joints are shot and need to be replaced. At least the guy gave me the new ones with the truck i guess.
My lifted Blazer has an STS style turbo on it that I'm affraid may suck in some snow/water so i think its coming off as soon as I get home.
I accidentally drove it all the way home in 4hi with the hubs unlocked and it vibrated alot. I've since figured out how it all works, but my front u-joints are shot and need to be replaced. At least the guy gave me the new ones with the truck i guess.
My lifted Blazer has an STS style turbo on it that I'm affraid may suck in some snow/water so i think its coming off as soon as I get home.
#6
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4wd
Yeah I'm pretty aware bout the brake lock and having to give it a little gas to engage/disengage. This was just from a lack of use I believe. Changed out the fluids and looked great.
#7
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You can't beat a gear driven t-case for toughness, but once it's in a range, it likes to stay there unless, as stated, you get the bind off it. Once you figure that out, it's pretty easy to operate. As for axle-shaft u-joints, ugh. No needle bearings left....is there a special axle nut socket for the old style dana 60F? I've got the 2 9/16 for the rear and the little one for the d44 on my old Ramcharger.
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#8
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Originally Posted by G1625S
You can't beat a gear driven t-case for toughness, but once it's in a range, it likes to stay there unless, as stated, you get the bind off it. Once you figure that out, it's pretty easy to operate. As for axle-shaft u-joints, ugh. No needle bearings left....is there a special axle nut socket for the old style dana 60F? I've got the 2 9/16 for the rear and the little one for the d44 on my old Ramcharger.
Yes there is a special socket for the front. Got one from Drivetrain Industries here local.
#10
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The old style front uses the same socket as the rear (it has rounded nuts with bent lock-washers). The new style (91.5 & up) uses the chevy style socket with 4 dog-ears.
#11
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Originally Posted by Alec
The old style front uses the same socket as the rear (it has rounded nuts with bent lock-washers). The new style (91.5 & up) uses the chevy style socket with 4 dog-ears.
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