just took my wheel off and found that i will be pulling the hub off to get the drum off.. is this correct? any easy way to change the cable out?

 

Whenever I have to change a park-brake cable, it is such an undertaking that I usually do a complete bearing and brake overhaul while I am in there.

You MUST remove the axle-shaft, spindle-nut, wheel-bearings and hub/drum, before you can even see just what is going on in there.

ALWAYS install a brand-new brake-spring kit anytime the drum is off; ignore this bit of wisdom and, a few weeks after you have already done all the work, you will hear a screeching noise and see the tail of a broken spring poking out between the drum and backing-plate.

I highly recommend you equip yourself with a pair of these:




:and use them instead of the silly much-too-soft one-time-use nylock spindle-nut.

Those Dorman double-nut/folding-tab lockwasher spindle-nuts will outlast the truck and the next ten trucks after and will stay where they are put; not so with the nylocks.

 

Everything this guy said is true, especially the double nut change. I did mine, and it saved me $$ each time, as you're supposed to replace the nylock nut each time... and no one ever does... not that I know personally.

 

I got the nuts and lock rings at Six States and I think that they where a lot chaper than the Dorman kits. I put the stock nylock nut and locking key in the frist time I did my brakes I put new cables on it at that time had the left cable side go bad in a short time for some reson you can only buy 4x4 brake cables and I have a 2wd truck the right side work fine but the left side is to longand if you dont get on just right it will sizes in a short time. pulled the axel out to find the key folded up time for someother nuts and locks. one other thing that make the alot ezer job is the right hold spring tool this is the strap on tool I think this is a chaper one . ken

Ebay ads are still not allowed on DTR

 

I just got a PLEWS 72-393 "FORD TRUCK BRAKE SPRING TOOL" NOS from ____; they work on Dodges too, or anything that uses that same type of spring hold-down.

I haven't used it yet as I just got it a couple days ago.

The vendor had several; the packages look like they have been under water, but the tool is fine.


K-D Tool also makes a K-D 3499 that is next to impossible to find; some guy has one of those also on ____ for more than twice the money I paid for the PLEWS, but the K-D is a nicer tool and probably worth twice the money if someone was doing brakes every weekend.

I figure the PLEWS will be light-years ahead of the tear-the-hide-off methods I have used for the last 40-years.

 

Never heard of Six States; do they have a web-site ??

Thanks.

 

I have a fancy spring tool, but I found that it is easier to push the spring retaining cap down with a pair of needle nose pliers with the retaining rod protruding out the top and then reach around the back of the backing plate and just turn the retaining rod 90 degrees and release the spring. It works really well...Mark

 

http://www.sixstates.com/products/locations.jsp

 

I do about the same, but use a set of needle nose vicegrip pliers, or a regular pair of vise grips.

 

I may learn something new here, but I think you are thinking about brakes on something else.


I have yet to see those little caps and pins you speak of on any of these trucks; I have seen them often on other stuff.

Our trucks have the coiled spring-thingies with the little "hooks" that poke through the backing-plate and shoe.

 

Thank you; appreciated.

 

OOPS!! You are absolutely right. I had brain flatulence. Glad to see you posting again, you weren't around for a while...Mark

 

I no longer have any drums, but when I did, I just clamped on to the springs with a pair of needle nose vise grips to both install and remove...Mark