so my driver side cable end busted and im planning on replacing both cables. i was wondering if anyone has info on replacing them. i have never worked on floating axles before and i want to make sure that i do it correctly without damaging the rear seals. i looked in the sticky but no one mentioned replacing any seals or gaskets. are there any to worry about? a step by step would be great.

 

I replaced my passenger side rear one that goes into the drum itself. It is 96 inches long and the longest of the bunch. You have to remove the axle and drum and disassemble the brake enough to remove the cable end from the arm at the brake. If you just do the one side and just jack up that one side above level, you won't lose too much rear end fluid. There is a crush gasket/seal for the axle and this should be replaced so it doesn't leak, You should also replace the seal. It is not that hard, but be sure to block the wheels, because if you are on an incline, and you remove the axle, it rolls, ask me how I know. This would also be a good time to check and adjust your brakes. Be careful not to damage the new seal when you are replacing the axle. It is pretty straight forward...Mark

 

This is a link to an article on replacing the rear seals, shows step by step how to remove the rear drums... once the drum is off, I replace the cable and follow the instructions on replacing the seals, and reinstalling the axle..
I would suggest since your drums are off, go ahead and replace the shoes, check/replace the cylinders and such... might as well while your there!

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=148798

 

I believe that there are 5 pieces to the entire cable, or at least 4 and they are not too cheap from dodge. The long one I replaced was around 120 usd IIRC...Mark

 

I just replaced the long cable on my 93 and it was $12 from napa. good quality too. I saw them listed on rockauto pretty cheap also. I only saw 3 cables total.

 

don't know for sure, but there is no way the cable I replaced could even be made for 12 dollars, it has got to be different or it's the biggest loss leader on earth...Mark I just checked rock auto and they indeed have it for 11 dollars, but, while I like Rock Auto, this is not nearly as substantial as the original cable. That is not to say it is no good, heck you can buy 8 of these for what Dodge charged

 

Anybody have the NAPA, Carquest, Advance Auto, etc replacement part numbers for future reference?

 

I replaced both rear brake cables whene I got my truck about 2 years ago and I think I got Bendix cables I was not happy with the quality. the housing where not as heavey as the stock ones, the return springs on the end are not as heavey as the stock ones, the little clips that hold the end on the lever in the drum are not as heavey, and they have no seals on the cable where the cable gose into the housing. Ken

 

The long cable is napa part #93940. It looks to be good quality with seals at both ends. I lubed it with white lithium before I installed it. The PO had the cable lock up on him. instead of fixing it he just pushed on the parking brake pedal harder. When I found it the pedal bracket was tacoed and pushed thru the firewall. I am literally starting at one end and fixing things as I find them. luckily the engine was in great shape

 

I put on Napa cables a few months ago. The two on the rear axle. It was about $35 for the pair, and they were good quality.

 

There were two different "styles" of brake cable systems, one that used a two piece cable from the pedal to the equalizer, with a pivoting lever attached to the frame joining the two pieces and the other style being a single main cable. Not sure if it was a model year change or what differentiated the two systems.

I replaced both the rear cables on my 91 and then again on my 93 with the Bendix cables from NAPA and have had no issues with them, they work just fine so far

 

thanks for all the help. i got both cables from napa for $40. They are pretty nice. coated and everything. i was mostly looking for info on the floating rear end but all the extra info helped. Just make sure if you go to les schuab to get your brakes done you watch them close. they didnt even adjust my passenger side because the cable was stuck in the tube. on top of that they installed my seals wrong and they have been leaking this whole time. i think im gunna rase hell and get my money back. thanks again for all the help everyone.