Hello, I am new here but, do not see anyone talking about cab rust above the windshield. I am sure a lot of people know about this but, I thought it would be good to bring up so everyone knows about it. On the 1st gen style of cab they can rust on the roof above the windshield. The cab will also rust where the seam of the roof and a-pillar come together. When rust gets bad, rain can get into the cab. Sometimes the cab is worse than it looks. This is something that everyone should keep an eye on, so it can be fixed before getting real bad. I would enjoy seeing what anyone has to say about this. <br> <br>I really am enjoying this site so far.<br><br>Paul

 

Good to hear from ya Paul, it's been discussed, but if you look at mine, the roof is the last place to get your attention. I'm planning on a cab transplant in the future. What part of the state are you from?

Check this out... http://midtr.com/

 

I live between Lansing and Flint. The worst rust on my truck is above the windshield. Other than that the truck is fairly clean. I am going to get the cab fixed this spring. I bought the truck the first of this year and love it so far.<br> I thought it might have been discussed before but, I am not good at getting around this site just yet. I thought it was worthy to bring up.<br><br>Paul

 

Watch the rockers and cab corners too. My folks are on M52 just north of 96. Grew up in Lansing. North of Grand Rapids now.

 

Yes, Rockers and Cab corners get it pretty bad. What I found out that works pretty good, until it can get fixed, is taking Duck Tape and placing it over the rust so it is smooth. Then take that Instant Foam that is used for insulation. Spray that in there and it will fill the rust holes yet will stop at the Duck Tape instead of just pouring out the holes. Then wait until it dries and peel off the Duck Tape. Looks pretty, nice and smooth. Then paint any color. I know it doesn't STOP the rust but it makes it so it doesn't stand out so bad. I know that I DO NEED a new cab so I went with that plan for now.

 

Does anyone know how well the polyeurethane foam adheres to steel, paint, etc.? I have always been worried that water would wick (or be drawn in by capillary action) between the steel and the foam, so I haven't really had the guts to try it. But it seems as though it could really help with condensation problems and noise-deadening. Also: any opinions on POR-15?<br><br>Thanks,<br><br>Alec

 

Was wondering about the foam for sound deadening myself. Got some POR-15 on half my frame and springs before the weather got cold. It's tedious to install if you follow the directions, but it still looks good and I travel gravel roads everytime I drive it. Did most of the wheels in silver(2 more to do) I'll have to look close as I just had new tires put on, but they still look good. Used a brush, goes on thin and lays down nice.

Holsteinman...
You do any mods to your truck yet? Haven't had mine quite a year yet. Would like to tweak it this summer.
Don

 

The rust above the windshield comes from the double roof. Condensation collects, seeps to the front, and rusts from the inside out. I fixed my first gen two ways. First, I tried welding up the holes...I managed to scar up my windshield. Second, I cleaned up the holes with a rotary witre brush and filled the holes with pre-mix fiberglass and finished with regular Bondo. This latter method was fairly simple, and looked very good.<br><br>To finish things off, I drilled some small holes from the inside of the cab to allow the condensation to evaporate.<br>george

 

My cab -- which looked almost perfect before I hit it with the scraper -- is so far gone that I can't even tell how it was initially put together. Was the drip edge a third piece of material between the windshield frame and the cab roof, or was it merely an extension of the roof?<br><br>Thanks,<br><br>Alec

 

Redleg I have not done any mods to my truck yet. I want to get the cab rust fixed first. I have someone that is going to fix it when he gets the time. He is restoring a car right now. I will get my cab fixed simetime this spring. I also need to get some gauges before I do much to it.

 

Just lost my turbo today. If it can be rebuilt, I will get a Pyro and 16cm housing. If I have to by new, the gauges will have to wait. Getting all my mechanicles restored before the body work. Drive train mostly done, working on a plow and radiator next. Would like to find a crew cab donor this summer, if the price is right, I'll settle for a club cab.

 

Dropped my turbo off yesterday at Michigan Turbo in Grand Rapids. They were recommended by a mechanic I trust. http://www.michiganturbo.com/home.htm<br><br>Picked it up today with a pyrometer and 16cm housing. It'll be going on this week with an oil change.

 

Cool hope things go well for you. You going to install pyro probe pre or post turbo?<br><br>Paul

 

Just drilled the hole today, pre turbo before I reinstall the turbo. The directions I got from a link here seem to apply to 2nd gens. They say to drill and tap 3/4 inch behind the flange. I did this and the probe is too long to fit there. Wasted money on a 3/4&quot; pipe tap I'll probably never need again (plus all morning looking for one). &gt; <br><br>I'm gonna have to put everything together, put a temporary plug in, then take it somewhere to have the threaded adapter that came with the probe welded onto the manifold. The only way I can see the probe possibly fitting without the adaptor, would be to drill about 1 1/2&quot; behind the flange, even this would be iffy. I'm also gonna put in a new radiator while the truck is down. Trying to decide on a gauge pod or boring into my display panel.<br>Don