C171/SD709 A/C compressor swap
ummm drill 4 holes and use wasers and bolts drop on newer compressor on old mounting plate .The three main holes in both plates are the same I used the floor design as a graph and some trig that's how this rascally rabbit would do it .. buttt the old compressors are superior in force to the new knock offs .They may last longer in the hars northern salt belt LOL
The mounting plate back side has to be completely flat, since it sits tight against the block and seals with an O-ring. SO I don't think your bolts and washer set-up would work. Plus you would have to get the location of the new compressor exactly right so that the belt lines up with no off angle rubbing. Much easier to just buy one from a 91.5 to 2002? I got mine off E-bay for I think $15.
Geez I would have thought someone would have a working system by now,
Here is what I am thinking.
How about I get someone to donate the lower water outlet and compressor to me and then I will make the conversion and figure out the necessary hoses and then I will post the results.
Anyone with a spare bracket laying around?
I need to take a look at a compressor mounted on the engine to see if it could be as simple as 2 stub hoses and appropriate Beadlock fittings.
Jimbo,
Do you have a compressor mounted on your truck or are you running just the bracket, you are the only person I know of in SoCal with a 1st.Gen Dodge.
There are many places you can get the Beadlock fittings to make your own custom hoses for the conversion.
http://www.acsource.com/hosefittingsbeadlock.aspx
Here are some weld on hose barbs,
http://www.coldhose.com/cat/weld-on-barbs-20.php
About any part you need to make your own hose,
http://www.coldhose.com/
Bearkiller,
Barrier hose has an inner liner of neoprene rubber for sealing to fittings and a Nylon liner (Barrier) to provide a barrier to refrigerant permeation.
With a sensitive electronic leak detector you can detect the refrigerant permeating through the jacket of older rubber hoses.
Jim
Here is what I am thinking.
How about I get someone to donate the lower water outlet and compressor to me and then I will make the conversion and figure out the necessary hoses and then I will post the results.
Anyone with a spare bracket laying around?
I need to take a look at a compressor mounted on the engine to see if it could be as simple as 2 stub hoses and appropriate Beadlock fittings.
Jimbo,
Do you have a compressor mounted on your truck or are you running just the bracket, you are the only person I know of in SoCal with a 1st.Gen Dodge.
There are many places you can get the Beadlock fittings to make your own custom hoses for the conversion.
http://www.acsource.com/hosefittingsbeadlock.aspx
Here are some weld on hose barbs,
http://www.coldhose.com/cat/weld-on-barbs-20.php
About any part you need to make your own hose,
http://www.coldhose.com/
Bearkiller,
Barrier hose has an inner liner of neoprene rubber for sealing to fittings and a Nylon liner (Barrier) to provide a barrier to refrigerant permeation.
With a sensitive electronic leak detector you can detect the refrigerant permeating through the jacket of older rubber hoses.
Jim
I think I found some good info about that model compressor direct from Sanden's website.
Sanden SD7H15:
Type: Fixed Displacement Piston
Displacement: 154.9cc
Refrigerant: R-134a
Oil to be used: Sanden SP-15
- The Enhanced SD7 is a higher performance version of Sanden's popular SD7H15 compressor. We made design improvements to the SD7H15 that provide higher refrigerant gas flow, decreased gas re-expansion, and improved efficiency. The Enhanced SD7 has the same outer dimensions as the standard SD7H15, but is capable of 15% - 20% cooling capacity based on independent testing.
- The Enhanced SD7 is ideal for applications that traditionally use 170cc - 210cc A/C compressors. Typical applications include: large AG or construction vehicles, transport buses, school buses, ambulances, fire trucks, motor homes, and specialty military vehicles.
- Since the Enhanced SD7 has the same mounting footprint as the standard SD7H15, no design engineering is required to make new mounting brackets. Simply utilize your existing mounting brackets.
- The Enhanced SD7 is available in both ear mount and direct mount versions with a variety of clutch and porting options. See the configuration list below for a description of available model numbers.
Also, found a performance curve for the compressor as well:
http://www.sanden.com/originals/imag...15_SES.xls.pdf
Sanden also offers a variety of outlet ports:
http://www.sanden.com/index.php?tag=flx7
Here are some specs for the SD709 R12 compressor (this link doesn't work as I thought it would. Enter model #7702 to find it):
http://www.sanden.com/productsearch.php
I'd like to know exactly which fittings and hose size to get as I would like to make my own a/c lines as well.
The factory Sanden compressors on our trucks run a #8 and a #10 size threaded fitting off the back. You can get A/C line kits off e-bay....I have one right now for the work I'm/was doing with my A/C system. But I'm in holding pattern until I get the intercooler in, and piping worked out.
I just purchased some new ac hose from the local jobber and the were the new type with lining !! but im the same boat as the others fitting inter-cooler in first and then the ac afterward , im going to try to fit the inter-cooler into the non inter-cooled front as I has two spare of those and none of the inter-cooled supports
whats a few holes here or there or in this case every ware LOL
whats a few holes here or there or in this case every ware LOL
Just ordered a new Sanden SD709 compressor from 1(800) Radiator using a friend of mine who does a/c as a reference (who now works for them). Cut me a deal for $213!! I plan to run R-134a so the oil will have to be changed but that won't be hard. That same friend has barrier hose in various sizes and a brand crimp tool he hasn't used yet. I'll have the compressor and fittings tomorrow afternoon and will building the lines shortly there after. I'll post a thread on the install.
EDIT: I also just discovered that the bolts used to hold the compressor to the bracket are the same size as the intake horn bolts, M8 x 1.25, IIRC. I'll know what length is necessary when I have the compressor in hand.
EDIT: I also just discovered that the bolts used to hold the compressor to the bracket are the same size as the intake horn bolts, M8 x 1.25, IIRC. I'll know what length is necessary when I have the compressor in hand.
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