okay so a little while ago i change the booster and maser cylinder. 3 times before it was "working" i blead them umpteen times and just can't figure this out! ALL of them have leaked out the cap of the master. this last one was doing great for a while but now the rear right tire will lock up under just medium pressure! i looked into the master and it was almost empty... there are no signs of it leaking anywhere but out of the lid of the master so what is up? the only thing suggested to my was that when i flushed everything out with the new masters that it clogged up the proportioning valve? i need advice! if you need more info i'll tell you anything you need to know! thanks!

 

Just a thought: Pull the drum on the wheel with the sticky brakes (I think you said right rear) and make sure the fluid isn't leaking from the wheel cylinder. They are a royal pain to take off of the full floating rears, but it sounds like there may be a problem in there anyway. Other than that, I would need more info on what you have done and how the fluid is coming out of the top cover of the master.

Fred

 

I wonder if the self-adjuster is stuck on the other side. It would be taking all the fluid to expand the brake shoe out to the drum and also could be pushing the piston out so far it leaks. These are prone to sticking.

Edwin

 

i guess i missed something important... can't use the parking brake cause that rear right will stick and i have to get under the truck and push the line back... does that support the brake cylinder thing?

 

Yeah, something is wrong inside that drum. Not sure why you are having them leak out the cover. The only thing I can think of is that you're boiling out the fluid due to the dragging brake, but I wouldn't think you'd be able to stand the smell.

 

see it doesn't feel like it's dragging, but i've felt the rim after 30-40 minute trips and that rim is warmer than the other but by no means hot... so what is the process of getting into the drum? oh and there really any smell at all... it did start to squeak now.

 

Pull the axle shaft, then pull the hub nut (remove the little sheetmetal locking tab first), then pull the hub/drum assembly off.

 

ok i need it slightly more basic... i've yet to work with any drums, only discs. i obviously pull the tire... then to i take of the plate on the end of the axle and that's where the axle shaft is?

 

i had the same problem with the fluid coming out the cap. outside of that everything worked well. at times i could go from michigan to northwest arkansas and would have to add fluid to the back of the master cylinder. changed it out with a new one and problem went away.

 

ArkansasRam, this is the 3rd replacement cause the other two did it! and this one is from oreilly and actually has the larger resivaur (sp?) in the front and the two have a hole drilled so it's more like 1 resivaur and the cap design is tighter.... also it has bleeders on the master cylinder. since it looked different i asked them what the deal was and they called the factory to verify it was ok... they said it was a qualified replacement

 

If you're talking about the one ton axle. The "plate" is actually the drive axle. You loosen the nuts then hit the side of the "plate" to break it loose then remove the nuts and slide the axle out. Then you pull the keeper, unscrew the nut and take off the hub. Get help though it's HEAVY!

Edwin

 

do a search on how to remove drums i think i put some info on there anyways youll find out anythin you need to know even the tools you need

ps: if you gona play in there do them both and do the gm upgrade thing i only found out about that after i put in new brakes

your prob is probly due to that little cylinder inside there that what you got to upgrade

before you go in there by some brakes and some brake cleaner if you dont need the brakes you can return them after

hope this helps

 

If you use brake cleaner, be sure to take off your watch and don't get that stuff on any thing plastic. Probably don't want to get it on your paint either.

I usually replace the cylinders and shoes are a must. Your parts store should have any other parts that seem to be worn. Make sure you unscrew the adjuster and clean the threads then use some white lithium grease on the threads.

The little pawl can get worn so it doesn't ratchet the adjuster properly. Check it and replace it if it's worn badly. Sometimes if the adjuster has been stuck for a while there will be a smooth spot on it so buy a new one if it is.

Self adjusters work when they're clean and new... sometimes.

Also replace the seals and lube the bearings when you put them back in since it takes a while for the oil to travel down from the banjo. There is a left side and a right side parts. I find a snapshot of where everything goes is helpful for re-assembly.

Edwin