I seem to be having some boost problems. What kind of boost pressure would a stock truck like mine produce off the showroom floor originally? A Banks kit w/ wastegate was installed on this truck before I owned it. Shouldn't I get similar if not an increase in boost with an after market wastegate adjusted properly? I do have a boost gauge to monitor the pressure. I am only getting around 15psi in 4th gear. This is after only getting 10psi in 4th and then replacing the lift pump which was leaking a little fuel (this did not solve boost problem, but was necessary) then replacing the entire injection pump. I did the injection pump because it did not seem like the cylinders were getting enough fuel to create appropriate exauhst volume through the turbo to then produce the normal boost. It is running pretty flat when I am heavy on the right foot. Any ideas?

 

Stock, your truck had 18-21 psig of boost running an 18cm exhaust housing.

The Banks exhaust housing is a desirable 14cm (wastegated).

What are your WOT exhaust gas temperatures? (Is your pyro mounted before the turbo, or after?

I'd just about bet you need to turn up the fuel.

More info ~ http://dodgeram.org/support_pgs/diesel_ix.htm

Hope this helps.

 

This might sound stupid, but check two things for me:

First, make sure that when the accelerator is on the floor, the throttle lever on the pump is hitting the high speed stop. You'd be amazed how many trucks I see that are only giving half power...

Second - there is an air line from the cylinder head to the injector pump. Make sure it's not cracked or loose.

 

Yes, turn up the fuel, DavidBC847. That is perhaps what I've been after all along. How does one turn up the fuel? Everything is better with a new injection pump but it is still low on boost, not much over 14psi. EGT is usually between 300-900 I have seen the pyro (installed before turbine in Exhaust manifold) go a smidge over 900, which worried me. It runs up high during boost and load, mostly down around 700-800 running at highway speed, although I'll keep an eye on it since new equipment has been installed. DaveWannadiesel, I checked the high speed stop and the pedal is making it touch the stop. There are 7 or so threads of the stop that could be turned out to allow more articulation on the pump. It looks painted and factory set. The air line I think you were talking about looks solid, no leaks. It is a hard line (smaller than injection line) and does a dip "U" and attaches right to the cylinder head, approximately two inches long.
The motor is definately running better with the new injection pump. Perhaps there is something funky going on with the wastegate or the pump is not set to deliver enough fuel like it should. I am certainly no diesel mechanic, but love all things mechanical. I will probably take it to Cummins Diesel in Henderson, CO (near Denver) for a diagnostic evaluation. I am desperately trying to find a mechanic in the Denver area that knows and likes to work on these first gen vehicles. I've been told "that truck is from a bygone Era" and that it is not easy to fix. That is bulls**t. I will find the right shop. Any way to find out which members are near Denver on this great site? Maybe some one knows of a great shop in my area that can help me.

 

- I'm not sure where Banks has the wastegate set. You can temporarily pinch the hose feeding it to see if the boost goes up (provided you have the fuel).

- You say the pyro sensor is mounted before the turbo in the exhaust manifold, with that, those EGT's strongly suggest the fuel is a bit low. The CTD is rated to do 1250*F for a 100% duty cycle.

Go back to the link I provided above and/or look in the sticky at the top of this forum and look for turning up the fuel. There's you'll find pictures indicating which screws and where.

 

Sound like they built you a stock pump

There is lots of free power hiding in that there new rebuilt pump

As David has said, go read in the performance section of the "Sticky" above......There is lot to learn that won't cost you a dime!!!!!!

If something don't make sense, after you have got the basic idea,(by reading the sticky above) ask a way.

And they are not hard to work on Just most mechanics are two young and don't understand the mechanical way

Our scanners are in our head.........and can be reprogramed at any time For free also

 

Thank you, especially for the encouragement. I will figure it out, eventually. Having your reply on questions I have will make it much easier. Great site.

 

There's very little you won't be able to diagnose on your own with a little help from the fine members here. Save you money for upgraded parts when the time comes. At that altitude, your numbers seem right for a stock pump. FWIW, I'd be on the lookout for a boost leak. Often times the rubber hump hoses will chafe on the core support, etc. It's best to completely remove them, clean them and roll them between your thumb and forefinger to look for cracks. Often times a crack will be all but impossible to see, but 10psi bill blow it wide open--maybe you're getting a bit of a whistling sound under boost, aside from the turbo, of course?

Welcome to the DTR family

Greg

 

Greg, yes, good advice. Particularly on the altitude. I will check the rubber couplings for leaks. I had to replace one on my last 1st gen, hard to find OEM boots but I found a decent one at NAPA, worked great.

 

These guys have good stuff and they're a site sponsor. Mention DTR and they'll give you a break on price. I've ordered from them with excellent luck.

http://www.stylinmotors.com/

Once you get up above 3k feet in elevation, getting up on boost is super important, especially for a 12v. I know there's a couple fellas running HY-9's from 24v automatics with excellent results. The added restriction of the 9 is overshadowed by the fact that you're not waiting forever for spool, smoking and getting hotter all along...

edit: I lived in Gypsum for a few years, worked at that big shop right off the exit. Sure do miss it out there....