1st Gen. Ram - All Topics Discussion for all Dodge Rams prior to 1994. This includes engine, drivetrain and non-drivetrain discussions. Anything prior to 1994 should go in here.

Body work, prep, primer, paint....

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Old Jun 18, 2011 | 07:59 AM
  #31  
1STGENFARMBOY's Avatar
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From: extreem southern ILL
I'm no body pro buy my opinion on not painting the hole truck at once is especially with any metalic in the paint is you can get different amounts af metalic and can make it not match.

It's allways a good idea to mix ALL the paint at once so the metalic is the same and this can also change the tent of the paint if mixed in stages.

and shake your paint gun very often to keep it mixed up in the gun cup.

Maybe a body pro will chim in and help us out.

I hope this makes sence it's still before breakfast and i'm not
thinkin clear.

Darwin
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Old Jun 18, 2011 | 11:45 AM
  #32  
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From: Orange County, California
That was one of my concerns as well, Darwin. They told me that they mix all their paint in 500gal. batches and that I shouldn't see any issues as far as "blending" goes. Although, I'm somewhat tempted to pour the base coat through a strainer and remove the metallic from it.
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Old Jun 19, 2011 | 08:02 AM
  #33  
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From: extreem southern ILL
I think it's the fact that when you mix a cup at a time it's easy to get just a little more or less thinner and it make the metalic heavier in that cup.

I think if you mix your gal very good and use the measuring cup very closely you should be ok.

you will do fine i'm shure, i'm just so darn picky i get all streesed out when i'm about to paint because i hold the importance of nice paint so highly.

I used to work for a corrvette shop and one of my jobs was to check if the paint was original or not, it changes the value of a vette quite a bit.

now it's a pet peeve of mine... i wish it wasn't so important to me it gets annoying, but in my old age i'm getting better about letting stuff slide.

Dar
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Old Jun 19, 2011 | 08:17 AM
  #34  
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From: West Palm Beach, Florida
Originally Posted by 1STGENFARMBOY
... but in my old age i'm getting better about letting stuff slide.

Dar
That's a hard thing to do. No, not the old age part.

I've never shot paint on a vehicle in my life, but I've heard it a lot that mixing paint all at the same time, especially metallic, is important for the reasons stated above. The one time I dropped my motorbike, the shop it went to shot just a couple of panels... didn't match the rest.
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Old Jun 19, 2011 | 03:30 PM
  #35  
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From: Orange County, California
Originally Posted by 1STGENFARMBOY
I think it's the fact that when you mix a cup at a time it's easy to get just a little more or less thinner and it make the metalic heavier in that cup.

I think if you mix your gal very good and use the measuring cup very closely you should be ok.

you will do fine i'm shure, i'm just so darn picky i get all streesed out when i'm about to paint because i hold the importance of nice paint so highly.

I used to work for a corrvette shop and one of my jobs was to check if the paint was original or not, it changes the value of a vette quite a bit.

now it's a pet peeve of mine... i wish it wasn't so important to me it gets annoying, but in my old age i'm getting better about letting stuff slide.

Dar
I certainly plan to be precise in my measurements. Probably go buy some cheap measuring cup at the 99 cent store or somewhere. Thanks for the continuous advice Darwin!
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Old Jun 19, 2011 | 09:11 PM
  #36  
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From: Wisconsin
You might have more luck with a viscosity cup! I still use a mixing cup to get close, but then I pour the paint into a viscosity cup. It has a very small hole at the bottom, and I use a stop watch to time how long it takes to empty. My Binks gun, with the pressure I'm running, (~40 psi I think, I have it written down somewhere) it takes 1 min, 23 seconds to empty. This works with any paint I have used. It really took ALL of the guess work out of mixing paint, once I figured out where my gun works the best. Trust me though, I spent a lot of money on paint, and I learned to sand before I got it all figured out!
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Old Jun 24, 2011 | 02:29 PM
  #37  
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From: Orange County, California
Originally Posted by schamran
You might have more luck with a viscosity cup! I still use a mixing cup to get close, but then I pour the paint into a viscosity cup. It has a very small hole at the bottom, and I use a stop watch to time how long it takes to empty. My Binks gun, with the pressure I'm running, (~40 psi I think, I have it written down somewhere) it takes 1 min, 23 seconds to empty. This works with any paint I have used. It really took ALL of the guess work out of mixing paint, once I figured out where my gun works the best. Trust me though, I spent a lot of money on paint, and I learned to sand before I got it all figured out!
A friend of mine has an HVLP gravity fed spray gun with a 1.4mm nozzle that he'll let me borrow. From what info I've gathered up until now, the HVLP guns only require 10-15psi.

Now I'm thinking of ditching my sleeper...
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Old Jun 24, 2011 | 05:59 PM
  #38  
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From: Torrance, CA
"The Champagne room has left the building".
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Old Jun 24, 2011 | 08:22 PM
  #39  
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From: Scottsdale, AZ
WOW looking good Jim. You should bring it over to AZ when it is done
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