Anyone ever cut the drip rail off all together?

 

I have seen it done, but only in pics. I think it's very very difficult to do because the drip rail is where the two parts of the cab meet, leaving you with a giant weld running around the top of the cab if removed.

 

I'm wondering how much a body shop would charge to handle the drip rail for me. If it's a reasonable cost, it may be worth it to me rather than the hassle of trying to do it myself.

How much work is involved in removing the door glass?

 

[QUOTE=1STGENFARMBOY;2977376]I priced all the paint for my truck friday.

2 qts color 1 green 1 silver
1 gal clear
all the activator
sealer
reducer

from a knock off of dupont, same paint just no warranty, even says on the back of the can made by dupont.

$300.00

Dar[/QUOTE


Hey where did you get this paint? Im gonna get mine painted really soon and need to get some.
What does rhe warranty cover that wouldnt come on this "knock off" paint?
Thanks

 

It's called (Nason) it's made by Dupont, The way i understand it Dupont has a warranty on the finnish (IF) done by a body shop, that i believe they will give you the paint to do it again if somthing happens to it.

I get it at a federated auto parts store, but you can get it anywhere they sell Dupont i think.

This Nason don't have that.
Don't mater to me anyhow because i do all my own body and paint.

If this is not true maybe someone will chime in.

I normally use single stage but i have used this in a base coat clear before on a black car and it turned out really nice.

I am not painting the hood on my truck and it has base coat on it now so i figgured i would match it.

I get a pretty good discount but i don't think it would be any higher than $400.00 for someone without an account.

Darwin

 

I have a good friend that has a large

body shop and if he don't do it all he won't do nothing, he says his reputation can get screwed up that way.

Like if some one said I will do the body and you just shoot it for me, and the body work was crappy, then somebody said who painted that and you said Jo blow. well you get the picture.

But if you knew somebody that would do it i think the going rate is $85.00 per hour. should be able to do it in a day.


Dar

 

Jimbo, the louvered hood on turbo side is slick! Could you post an underside hood photo showing louver?.Is it an actual stamped louver or a hole cut in and louver panel installed? That is one unique rig!! Very different. What do you pull with it?

 

im more than likely gonna have someone paint my truck in the very near future. i told him id take EVERYTHING off the outside that needed to go, he'd do body and paint. he said he'd charge 5 after i bought my own materials. so, im gonna try to keep it all under 1k. but id rather go over than have a paint job that only lasts awhile. thats makin this dupont knock off sound great lol

 

PPG also has value line paints as they call them. Omni and Shopline are the 2 that I know of. I painted a few panels on a 1971 newport in omni bc/cc and it has been outside now for 8 years and still looks good. I was just getting some paint the other day and the place I went to sold dupont. Prices of even the nason stuff seemed really high compared to omni but its been a few years since I bought paint. My truck is next on the list for paint hopefulley this summer. Prep work is what makes the paint look good and last.

 

ill look into that as well

 

Sherwin-Williams has one as well, called Crossfire. I actually like it better than the full price SW line. It flows forever though, so make sure you don't hit it too hard on the first pass.

 

man you guys are helpful lol

 

So can anyone tell me about removing the door glass?

 

That is easy just remove the door panel then the vent window then the door glass. To remove the vent window roll the door class down all the way. Then remove the 2 Phillips head screws in the upper door jam area facing forward. Then there is one bolt that goes through the door and into the bottom of the vent window lower track. Tilt the vent window back and take it out. Then just slide the door glass forward to get it off the roller and it will come right out.

 

Thanks Bill! That does sound pretty easy.

I stopped by a Sherwin-Williams today and discussed my plans for the truck. They asked if I had any particular reason for wanting Dupli-Color's kit. The only reason I brought it up was because I hear a lot about them on the many automotive TV shows. After hearing their thoughts and advice, I ended up going with another Sherwin-Williams product called "Finish 1." It's a single stage enamel in that it doesn't require a clear coat but has additional protection as opposed to Dupli-Color's clear coat. The closest color to the mineral gray I liked was "Charcoal Mist Metallic." It's darker than the mineral gray though but since a black sealer over the primer is recommended, I'm thinking that the light gray primer will make it equal to or slightly darker than the mineral gray. I plan to paint in stages. First, the front-end; fenders, hood, core support, etc.) and work my way back from there. The bed probably needs the most attention as far as rust and some straightening. So today, I picked up 2 quarts of primer, 2 - 8oz. cans of hardener (4pts. primer, 1pt. hardener), body filler with spreaders (for a couple very small dings and just in case of others I'm surprised by), 80 grit and 220 grit sander paper, tape, stir sticks and strainers.