I'm contemplating replacing all the body side moulding on my '93 W250 with the LE package trim. The existing moulding has a chrome strip on the bottom, covered with clear plastic. After 29 years, the clear plastic is peeling in places. I have two options: remove and replace the trim (I've located OEM-like trim from LMC Trucks), or attempt to strip off the remaining clear plastic from the existing moulding and leave the existing moulding in place. I favor the first option, but am leery of the remove and replace issues.

Obviously, as the existing trm is attached with some sort of adhesive, I can attempt to pry off the old trim, and clean off the remaining adhesive residue with something like acetone or isopropyl alcohol. I expect the OEM adhesive is some sort of foam-based double-sided transfer tape, but ??? And, I obviously have to take care not to damage the paint. But then, I'm faced with several not-so-fun issues to conquer. Firstly, the trim from LMC is rolled for shipment. How in heck do I straighten the stuff out? Second, what sort of trim adhesive do I use to attach the new trim?

Sigh. As the truck isn't a trailer queen by any means, perhaps simply trying to remove the failing plastic covering on the OEM trim that's on the truck might be my best bet. Certainly simpler.

Any suggestions?

Regards,

Pete

 

My 92 W250 has the same rub rail trim. The plastic is peeling off the chrome and the trim has started to peel away from the sheet metal in spots. You're right, it's held on with foam double sided tape. I think the LMC roll comes with the tape on it and you just peel film off one side before you install it. I'm not positive though as I haven't bought any yet. My plan is to unroll it and lay it out straight in the sun on a hot day. Then cut, peel, and install. That seems like the easiest option to me. If the old trim doesn't want to peel off you can pull some fishing line or floss between the trim and body to cut the tape.

 

Rolling out into the sun would be okay. However when you install it do so the next day with it at ambient temperature as it could very well shrink with ugly results.

 

When I had my paint done I pulled all of that fake chrome crap off and plugged the holes. Made the truck look much more cleaner. My trim was covered in clearcoat anyway because the PO was an idiot.

Edwin

 

An update-I have ordered and received the LMC body side moulding, which matches the OEM moulding correctly. It is tightly rolled and shipped in an approximately 2' x 2' box, which makes it a TIGHT roll! And yes, it comes complete with what appears to be an OEM-type double-sided foam transfer tape already installed. And while several have commented on simply laying out the roll in the sun to soften the rubber and straighten the moulding, that's sort of problematic when the high ambient temperature at my location in the Pacific Northwest hovers in the 40's well into the late spring. I can try hitting it with a heat gun, but there's a LOT of material to heat up. I thought of heating it in a steam box ala steam bending wood, but the product has a 200 deg F max temperature warning on it, so that's out the door. Guess I'll simply have to postpone this particular chore until the summer.

A more perplexing issue has surfaced, when I contemplate refinishing the fender mouldings. Much of the original finish (black) has worn off, revealing the base material color (yellow) exposed. I originally thought they were simply held in place with four sheet metal screws, and could be easily removed for repaint. Well, no, they've got the same double-sided foam tape securing them to the sheet metal as well. And, as I've not found replacement OEM-style fender mouldings, it now appears I'll have to refinish mine in place. Sigh. What a PIA. I can remove the existing mouldings for repaint, but am now faced with replacing the OEM foam transfer tape with something equivalent. I think I'll have to find some friendly body shop guy to advise me on how to do so, as they're are a bozillion kinds of transfer tapes available. I only want to go through this evolution once, so I'd like to get it right the first time.

Thanks for everyone's suggestions. Everything helps.

Regards,

Pete

 

If you want the molding to stay on ? Use the 3M foam tape. Which is what Dodge brothers used OEM. Only one that works the best and lasts and worth the money. JMO

 

Hi brcron. 3M makes many hundreds of different "foam tapes". 3M has absolutely no idea what the 1993 Dodge foam tape part number is. So, searching for this material on the 3M site is a bust. Do you, or anyone else, know the Dodge part number for this foam transfer tape? And are you positive that 3M manufactured the OEM tape? Given my truck was assembled in Mexico, who knows where the Mexican assembly plant(s) acquired the tape. Did Dodge drop-ship 3M tape to Mexico? Since I only want to do this once, I'd like to use the correct foam tape, which so far has lasted almost 30 years.
Regards,
Pete

 

This is the tape I use. They sell it at auto parts stores. I've used it on 3 trucks now. Not as good as OEM but it will last at least 12 years in my experience. I use the 3/4 width and sometimes a roll of 1/2. You're taking it a bit far if you need NOS molding tape (which doesnt exist)
https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40069527/

 

Thanks jerseybud. I'll give it a try.
Regards,
Pete