Well I've been noticing my truck has a lot more blowby then it used to... I think 50 lbs of boost running through it while pulling this summer has taken a toll. It had very little blowby before the summer but now it seems pretty bad. It has a steady stream coming out of the oil fill cap while idling, and when the motor is off it streams out of it slowly as well. When my truck gets warm, my idle drops and it hazes out my exhaust. I was thinking my pump was getting worn causing the lower idle when hot but with the hazing I'm starting to wonder if its more serious. Also I am losing more oil (liquid gold since its amsoil) then I used to and thats getting frustrating...It doesn't seem to be lacking power when I need it though, still picks right up and screams.

I've been reading the thread on valve cover breathers that BC847 wrote up
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...t-t199914.html
I have heard with truck making quite a bit of boost or planning on going twins, that it is a good idea to add some more breathers.
This seems like a good way to go with the valve cover breathers and maybe the 24 valve crankcase breather or put one of those small filter type breathers on the oil fill cap. What do you guys think is a good route to go for more breathers?

It seems like more of my seals are leaking on my motor just like BC847 mentions in this thread, especially my front crank seal and cover seal (which I just changed not to long ago)

I'm hopin its not something more serious internally like maybe a scuffed piston or melted rings or something... or maybe just wore out rings, I do have 256,000 miles on the ol beast... But if I'm gonna have to tear into the motor to fix all that I'm gonna want to build the whole motor up like BC847 stated in his thread. Might as well just start from scratch and another block if that is the case so I'd like to get by with just breathers to keep it decent if that will somewhat help my problem. Thanks in advance

 

This one of my reasons for looking at a evac system for my crank case. I noticed more blow by when I switched to synthetic oil, don't know if it was cause and effect though. I've had many many over 50 psi runs and way more egt's then I'd like to admit but compression shows good for me. I had my head off about 8 thousand miles ago and pistions and block still looked good. I think I'm going to do a cylinder leak down test, but I'm not expecting to find much since my compression is doing fine.....Well I hope not to find anything doing a leak down test.........

 

I think, try the 24v breather and the oil fill cap prior to the valve cover breathers to see if that aleviates some of your problem, then if it does, but not to the point you're happy w/ it go w/ the valve covers w/ breathers, that way you're not out too much in the beginning to see what your problem really is. I know on my pulling truck i puked out about a half quart after every run after puttin on the ppump and peggin my 60psi boost gauge so i rigged up a catch can and added some breathers to the vc on it, just used a hole saw to drill some holes and added some AN fittings and tubing into my catch can and two breathers on the catch can itself. works out well and i mounted it above the vc, so it drains back into the motor after the run.

James

 

is the 24v breather you guys talking about this one?
Will that oil fill cap screw right on to our fill tube?

http://www.dieselbombers.com/dodge-d...-vent-mod.html

 

Rick, i can't see the pics on that other thread that you posted, but the 24v uses a breather w/ a tube that screw in where the oil fill is on a 12v and just has a large tube that comes out the top of it and there's a catch bottle on the tube. not a great set up, but a start.

 

The same thread by bc847 made me get my set I've got slightly less leaks just the front seal and tappet cover plus they look cool

 

I've heard good and bad about the 24 valve crank case breathers and couldn't find one so I ran down to Autozone the other day and got a little spectre breather, a 3/8" hose barb and some epoxy. Drilled a hole in the middle of my oil fill cap and cut the handle to fit the hose barb and epoxied it in there, then slid the breather on and clamped it.

Hopefully it will help a little, I haven't driven it much since I put it on but with the engine running or when it shuts off I can see a slight haze coming out of the breather so it must be working... and its not soaked with oil... yet. Oh well for under $20 I figured it was worth trying for now, but I've priced out the dual valve cover breathers and can get the whole setup from a case dealer for about $130ish so if I want two dual covers its gonna be $260ish... I'm gonna see how well this works but I may go with the dual covers too in the long run since i plan on twins in the near future.

Are the dual covers worth the money? I've heard they are the best way to go to keep things breathing and clean.

 

i can't justify spending close to 300 on the covers when you could technical drill and tap the VCs that you've got and just add a breather to each one w/ a short threaded pipe. IMHO

James

 

I just tapped into the side of the front valve cover, installed a big AN fitting and ran a hose over to the fender well where I have a drag race style catch can with a breather on the top. If you just put a breather on the oil filler tube you will blow oil over over the engine compartment.

I have a drag racing vacuum pump that I am thinking about driving with an electric motor that will vary with boost. I can't run it all the time because the graphite vanes will wear the aluminum pump body.

 

I'm noticing a slight greyish haze under very light throttle or at a low idle when I put my truck in drive with the brakes on. It like its burning oil and I'm beginning to wonder if its my valve seals? I didn't change them when I put my 60 lb springs in and I probably should've, even though they were fine at the time... I've heard to get the tophat style seals so the springs will hold them down??

 

POD's haze at idle no matter what.
What percipitated me putting in a breather was I blew out my front and rear seals!

 

actually right now my pods are sitting under the seat. I have 5x14 or 13's in it right now. I'm borrowing them from a friend on here and trying them out. Both of my front and rear seal and just about every other seal is leaking... and I change my front crank seal and front cover seal this last winter. I'm sure the breather has to help some, and its not spittin oil everywhere... yet

 

austin- blowby not too uncommon under the conditions your running, hi boost, higher mileage motor. the p-pumped engines had the top ring position lowered to handle more boost / heat, although i pulled apart a late 93 motor that had lowered rings. if you build another motor you can adress that. new stem seals are always nice. these engines were designed with an intended max boost around 18 psi .

 

Yeah I've been told its normal but yet sometimes I'm worried. It never did it til after these last few pulls (which was with my bigger turbo on there and pushin more boost) which makes sense. Just wishin I woulda put breathers on it before. I would love to start building up another motor and keep it VE, but school is draining my funds. But after I should have a lot more knowledge and be able to build it better is the way I look at it.

By the way do you have a spare block or a motor with not much left on it you would wanna sell? I'm going to dyno with your injectors tomorrow here at school then swap my pods in hopefully this weekend and dyno again. So if you need em back let me know, and you can also get this turbo back cuz Brian never used it.