Oh I see.

1/ wire solenoids to push button switch

2/ unplug WIF sensor

3/ run appropriate harness pin for OD to a ground.

Should be good until you find a known good ECM.

 

Not sure where you get the 500w from.

All my light duty Webastos are 4kW minimum and heat the coolant up pretty quick.

Sure beats plugging in the electrical block heater when the closest power outlet is a few miles away.

 

He was talking about the circulating 120v coolant heaters. They go in a heater hose. Pretty sure he meant that even a small 500w version is better then the block heater. Which they are, I have one truck with a 1350w circulating coolant heater and in 2hrs you start it and it's blowing heat immediately.

The webasto's are a completely different animal, I love mine

 

Oh I see.

Understand now :-)

Yes, The Webasto's are nice....the old girl loves the no-grids-start provided, and I am fond of the cabin air add-ons as well.

 

https://www.amazon.com/Kats-13150-Al.../dp/B000BQUUR6
i just might get one!

 

How are you determining that it is the cord and not the element ?

My block heater has quit working.

I tested continuity by putting the meter probes on the cord prongs and get nothing, as in open circuit.

I guess I could remove the cord and test continuity right at the heater itself.

Does anyone know any part-numbers for a replacement heater and what wattage is the original ?


I do still have the biggest KATS tank heater; the one that I used to have on the original I-H engine; that thing would make the radiator steam; 2500-watts if I remember correctly; I may just install it; but, to make them work correctly, it is a lot more involved than just splicing into a heater-hose.

I added an adapter where the radiator drain-**** fitting is that was the inlet to the tank heater, which was the lowest point in the coolant system; the outlet then went into the lowest heater-hose engine port.

If they are plumbed any different, the warm water doesn't make it into the engine.

 

I have been plugging the brick in, and with a standard Christmas light 3 prong 1500 watt timer, it turns itself on in the middle of the night, and by the time I get up to go plow, the upper radiator hose is warm to the touch, and truck starts as on a warm spring day, even like tonight at 6* f. Makes no sense to me not to plug it in, as it runs so much better.

 

I agree; if electricity is available, plug 'er in; everything just fares better.

I have been using one of those ten-dollar outdoor timers for several years (the same one); and, if it is going to be below freezing, I plug in.

I did have an episode earlier this winter where the timer was not turning on the heater; I plugged a light into it and twisted the clock around and the light did not light; so, I twisted the clock around through several On/Off cycles until it was consistently turning on the light.
I left the light connected along with the block-heater so that I could look out and see if the light came on.
I guess the contacts must have gotten corroded over time and my repetitious On/Off cycles maybe cleaned them up a bit.


As for my block-heater not working, I want to thank diesel402004 for mentioning the cord; I don't know if my poor influenza-wracked brain would have thought of investigating the cord all by myself.

I put my meter probes to both terminals of the connected cord and showed an open circuit.

So, after reading diesel402004's mention of the cord, I stood on a milk-crate and dis-connected the cord.

Probing the exposed prongs of the block-heater itself showed a good circuit.

Both the Ground and Common wires of the cord tested Okay; however, the Hot wire tested open/dead.

I removed the cord from the truck and took it inside for further investigation; and, by strategically poking a sharp pin into the wire, I discovered the Hot wire to be separated/broken inside the insulation, just against the 3-prong plug.

Otherwise, the cord looked fine; no cracks or dry-rotted places; probably due to the fact that I had sleeved it from end to end with quality split-loom some thirteen or so years ago.

This was the original cord that came with the engine when new in 1989; and, it is a miracle that it has lasted as good as it has; when I got to messing with it, it was surprising just how shoddy it was made; I have seen much better cords on cheap lamps at the dollar store.

The strands of wire are molded inside the outer covering without any benefit of individual insulating coverings; no black, white, and green sheathing; just three separate stranded wires separated only by a thin, easily torn, rubber covering.

It is no surprise that the wire broke, as there was nothing to protect it.

It being cold as a witch's refrigerator, and a new cord costing money and time, I rebuilt the cord that I had.
I had a very heavily made cord that I had salvaged from a dead microwave oven; it was quite long compared to most.

I cut the old cord far enough away from the bad spot to be sure of good material to work with.
I spliced/ soldered/ and heat-shrinked the heavy microwave cord onto the heater cord.
I sealed the entire splice under three more layers of heat-shrink.
I covered the whole thing from end-to-end with quality split-loom, putting a zip-tie every six inches.

I believe it is better now than it ever has been.


I sure am glad that it turned out to be the cord and not the heater element.

Thanks for reading.

 

The timer I use is kept inside the garage. A long yellow jacket HD extension cord. (12 gauge) plugs in, goes under the garage door seal, and to the truck. It has one of those integrated led bulbs in the plug, so it lights up when the circuit is on. Keeping the timer indoors has kept the crapo Chinese timer functional for a few years now used for 2 months out of each year, only when cold enough.

Great catch on the cord. The first thing I'm gonna do now when it warms up is pull that cord off, test continuity, and wrap the entire length in silicone, self vulcanizing tape, and a plastic loom. My luck, it will break just at the wrong time, and ignite the truck on fire...


Oh yeah... I read that whole post above. Sure is nice when people use the enter button, and create "readable" paragraphs separating thought and content. Makes the old dog eyes work a little easier

 

I appreciate that you read every word.

One of my biggest gripes on forums is when I clearly state that I have thoroughly tested A, B, and C, and replaced X, Y, and Z; at least one person will reply that I should test A, B, and C, and while I am at it, replace X, Y, and Z.

 

Lol..

Just because ok " read every word" doesn't mean I've retained it. I'm just over 50, and.memory is unfortunately, over 50.


What were we talking about again??

 

it's called C.R.A.F.T.

 

Maybe the cord is good and you are just excited with the anticipation of driving your truck.

The block heater in my CRD Jeep isn't working, thanks for the inspiration and ideas of how to check it guys.